JMF Battery install and EGR Block help

[ErikTande]

OK, I have my stock battery out, the battery tray out, the charcoal canister out, the EGR valve out.... Now I just need to put on the block off plate and a mount the tray.

But what do I do with all the hoses I disconnected from the charcoal canister and EGR valve? Just block them off?

Also, can I keep my AC (air conditioning) with this battery? It seems impossible to get the battery in and out without disconnecting it and reconnecting it. **EDIT** Nevermind, I can accomplish that by unscrewing and removing the negative terminal.







***EDIT*** Added a video

You can see the hoses clearly at 0:30s

[ame]http://youtu.be/HcXeoH_G7Ys[/ame]

 

[Gerg]

I'm going to repaint it and get it looking completely stock. My plan is a 12-second daily driver I have a ton of parts to install still just sitting in my garage. Walbro 450, 1000cc injectors, AFPR, FMIC, MBC, 16g, etc...

First up was this, then I'm putting on my Boost gauge and Wideband. Then ECMLink. Then the fuel goodies.


There is a meetup on Sunday in Golden CO, you should drive down!

I totally would come down but I just got my dsm running the other day. The only thing stopping me from driving it now is bad brakes, and I've got to work out a few bugs. My brakes should be here tomorrow, but my car is embarrassing! It's half primer and half white, mismatched talon and laser side moldings.

But your set up sounds pretty similar to mine, i'll be interested in seeing your body work. I've never done it before and it's kind of intimidating! Do you plan on doing it over the winter?

 

[ErikTande]

I totally would come down but I just got my dsm running the other day. The only thing stopping me from driving it now is bad brakes, and I've got to work out a few bugs. My brakes should be here tomorrow, but my car is embarrassing! It's half primer and half white, mismatched talon and laser side moldings.

But your set up sounds pretty similar to mine, i'll be interested in seeing your body work. I've never done it before and it's kind of intimidating! Do you plan on doing it over the winter?

Some of it, yeah. Depends on how warm I can keep my garage. If my heaters can keep it at 70 degrees, then I'll definitely do some. Otherwise I'll wait till summer. If you ever need body work let me know, I'll trade you for mechanical help.

 

[Gerg]

Some of it, yeah. Depends on how warm I can keep my garage. If my heaters can keep it at 70 degrees, then I'll definitely do some. Otherwise I'll wait till summer. If you ever need body work let me know, I'll trade you for mechanical help.

Sounds good to me! But honestly I still consider myself a noob when it comes to mechanical stuff, I've learned a lot from the factory service manual.

It's nice to start out with a relative stock car though, I bought a "modded" 90 fwd talon off of some kid from North Glenn. It was a nightmare to figure out all of the rigging he had done to get the car to run right.

You'll get a lot more familiar with the car just by doing the simple mods you have planned. But I always try to do my best to help, and if I don't know I wont bs you and act like I do.

I'll keep an eye out on the rocky mountain section of the forum, it would be cool to meet other dsmers in the area.

 

[ErikTande]

This mother licker is damned near impossible to fit in with AC (air conditioning). I couldn't use a post on the one side no matter how hard I tried, the AC line sits right where it should be. I just had to screw a bolt and the lines directly in. And it's definitely making contact with the AC line, which worries me a bit.

 

[StarFawkes]

Just take your AC out. It took me about 30 minutes to have it completely out of my car. For what it's worth, you take great pictures and post a lot of detail when you ask questions. If only more could be like you. And honestly I just bought the JMF small battery kit from ExtremePSI after seeing it installed into your bay.

 

[ErikTande]

Just take your AC out. It took me about 30 minutes to have it completely out of my car. For what it's worth, you take great pictures and post a lot of detail when you ask questions. If only more could be like you. And honestly I just bought the JMF small battery kit from ExtremePSI after seeing it installed into your bay.

Thanks, I'm pretty slow when it comes to mechanics, so pictures work a lot better for me than "There's a hose thingy connected to the silver thing by that one thing by the battery, what do I do?" ... Because that's about what my questions would sound like.

I might take the AC out, but I really want to keep it. I drove all summer without it, it sucked balls. Next spring I'll get it tested, and if there are no leaks and the compressor is working properly, I'm going to charge it back up. If there are leaks and they'll be a pain to fix, I'll just rip it out.

I just got the power hooked back up, finally! Started right up no problems. Now I'm going to go for a drive and see how well my amp and 10" sub handle the small battery. I do have a Mitsubishi 140Amps Alternator, so I think I might be ok. If not, I have a 2.0 Farad Capacitor sitting on the shelf in the garage ready to go. I may just install it anyway....

 

[pansaias]

OK, I need a bit more help. There were 4 EGR hoses on the passenger side connected to nipples under the intake manifold, and I disconnected and capped those nipples.

There are 4 on the driver's side as well, but I can't seem to see or be able to get to where they are connected. Do I need to get to those nipples to cap them off, or can I just yank them out?

*EDIT* I don't think either side is the vaccum source, right? So I don't need to cap any of them under the intake manifold? It looks like they just go straight though.... Can anyone confirm this?

So you can actually take the bracket which holds all the solenoids, unbolt it, remove all the solenoids except the fuel pressure regulator one, unless you have an afpr, you can run without a solenoid(don't quote me on this, or the color of the line, but i do believe its the one with the light blue stripe) Then unhook those two solenoids from the harness and just follow all the vacuum ports they go to and plug them. You have a vacuum block under you intake manifold, if its not too much work you can take it out. If youre not feeling up to it, I would recommend leaving it in, and just removing the hoses that attach to it, from the passenger and drivers side.
Theyre going to be stuck on there pretty good, once theyre undone you dont have to cap that vacuum block, since it no longer receives vacuum.
You will not get any codes on a 1g because its obd1 I believe, and not obd2 that actually checks emission control devices for proper function.

There are many theories on where is best for your boost gauge, I would recommend the light blue line(fuel pressure solenoid) on the manifold side of the solenoid. T right there.
All the nipples on your throttle body can be capped off, or you can cut a small vacuum line and run it into one nipple to the other.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

That might give you some ideas, I personally run the same setup as the first picture on the very second post.

 

[ErikTande]

All done! I did notice my dash lights dimming a bit with the bass, which is why I installed the 120amp alternator a few months ago. That worked fine with the big battery (no dimming), but now they're dimming again with this tiny battery, which is to be expected. I'm going to install the capacitor tomorrow to fix that.


I'm marking this as resolved now, thanks for all the help! I also took pictures of all the weights of everything installed and removed, I'll post a new post in the appropriate section in a couple days.


There was a total of 42.14 lbs (pounds) removed from the car from the battery, tray, charcoal canister, hoses, egr valve, etc.

I added back in a 15 lb battery and 1.5 lb tray, so 16.5 lbs back in the car. So I lost 25.5 lbs with this new battery setup. Pretty awesome.




Here's the Capacitor I'll be installing:
Power Acoustik 2.0 Farad Digital Power Capacitor

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