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JMF Battery install and EGR Block help

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ErikTande

Supporting Member
1,522
593
Dec 17, 2012
Centennial, Colorado
OK, I have my stock battery out, the battery tray out, the charcoal canister out, the EGR valve out.... Now I just need to put on the block off plate and a mount the tray.

But what do I do with all the hoses I disconnected from the charcoal canister and EGR valve? Just block them off?

Also, can I keep my AC (air conditioning) with this battery? It seems impossible to get the battery in and out without disconnecting it and reconnecting it. **EDIT** Nevermind, I can accomplish that by unscrewing and removing the negative terminal.







***EDIT*** Added a video

You can see the hoses clearly at 0:30s

[ame]http://youtu.be/HcXeoH_G7Ys[/ame]
 

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The hard line on your firewall is a vent from your tank. It needs to stay vented, so dont block it off. The rest gets blocked off and thrown into your bucket of just in case parts that we have all developed over the years :)
 
Yeah, one of the charcoal ones says "To Tank" and "To AC". Block the AC line and leave the "To Tank" line open?

And what about the 3 lines that were plugged into the EGR valve? block them all?



Thanks for the help, I'm in the garage right now!
 
Id say so. I always pop in a cheapy check valve so nothing sucks back in and it will still allow the tank to vent built up pressure. Then I run a vacuum line a little lower and zip tie it in place.
I wouldnt know why youd want to block it off, but maybe they had an alternate venting solution?
 
Yeah, one of the charcoal ones says "To Tank" and "To AC". Block the AC line and leave the "To Tank" line open?

And what about the 3 lines that were plugged into the EGR valve? block them all?



Thanks for the help, I'm in the garage right now!

If you're doing away with the egr and charcoal canister, just unplug your emission solenoids from the wiring harness, and get rid of all that extra "vacuum leak potential"
The solenoids are the ones on the firewall, drivers side. Then you can remove all the hoses going to them.
One of the solenoids is a fuel pressure, don't remove that one, I believe for a 1g it has a light blue striped hose going to it.
 
If you're doing away with the egr and charcoal canister, just unplug your emission solenoids from the wiring harness, and get rid of all that extra "vacuum leak potential"
The solenoids are the ones on the firewall, drivers side. Then you can remove all the hoses going to them.
One of the solenoids is a fuel pressure, don't remove that one, I believe for a 1g it has a light blue striped hose going to it.

Ok, gotcha. One of the hoses that was plugged into the EGR valve ran to the top of the throttle body. THe rest go under the intake manifold up to the drivers side (pic attatched.) So unplug them all except the blue one and rip them out? Which one should I keep for a boost gauge? Pic attatched:
 

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New problem - Battery doesn't fit because of a big silver line, see video:



JMF Battery install problem - YouTube


What do I do about that?

**EDIT** I guess it's the AC, which doesn't work anyway. I'm pretty sure the freon is completely gone. Can I just unbolt it and bend it out of the way?

**EDIT 2** Went ahead and unbolted it, holding my breath and wearing goggles just in case... Nothing. Not even a hint of a hiss. I guess that explains why my AC doesn't work.
 
OK, so turns out if I unbolt the air conditioning line, I can get the battery in, and then bolt it back in place with no problems.

Questions:

1. If I actually had freon in my car, would I have lost it by unbolting that spot? ### that would mean I wouldn't be able to remove the battery without dumping my freon.

2. It seems dangerously close to the negative terminal. Should I be worried about that arcing and causing a fire?
 

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I'm going to call it a night and finish tomorrow after work. I need some longer power and ground cables now anyway. So can I just remove all those lines that are under the intake manifold and running up to the drivers side? (See earlier post). And can I just block off the 2 hoses that were connected to the top of the throttle body?


Thanks!
 

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Those vacuum lines run to a few little hard lines that are mounted under the intake manifold. I would remove the ones that your not using on both the drivers side and the transmission side.

I just bought some little caps from the auto parts store to plug the unused ports on the throttle body.

Nothing will arc off of the negative battery post, the positive is the one you've gotta be careful for.

Edit: this may help! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html
 
Yes you would have lost your freon

No the neg terminal will not arc

And cap off all the nipples that you took lines off of and put tiny zipties on them to keep them from leaking. While you're at it, put zipties on every vacuum line to prevent leaks.
 
Yes you would have lost your freon

No the neg terminal will not arc

And cap off all the nipples that you took lines off of and put tiny zipties on them to keep them from leaking. While you're at it, put zipties on every vacuum line to prevent leaks.

Gotcha. I figured out I can get the battery in and out just by unscrewing the negative terminal, instead of unbolting the AC line. So I can keep the AC if I ever decide to get it working.
 
Here's the EGR plate installed and a few random pics of the weight of the battery and tray.

Tray weighs 1.52 lbs (pounds) and the battery weighs just under 15 lbs. I'll weight the stock tray and battery tonight just for reference.
 

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Ok, so I can just cut and cap these hoses right? With the exception of the hose running to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, which is also where I tap in my boost guage, is that correct?

Thanks!

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No, I would completely disconnect and remove unwanted vacuum lines, then cap their source at the manifold/throttle body. Whether or not to disconnect the solenoid is up to you but removal could result in a CEL.

It's also best to connect each line to it's own pressure source rather than T'ing into others. Just be sure that the pressure source doesn't have a check valve and is large enough to operate the connected device(s). For example, you wouldn't want the BOV line running to a throttle body nipple since it can't move enough volume to operate the valve.
 
No, I would completely disconnect and remove unwanted vacuum lines, then cap their source at the manifold/throttle body. Whether or not to disconnect the solenoid is up to you but removal could result in a CEL.

It's also best to connect each line to it's own pressure source rather than T'ing into others. Just be sure that the pressure source doesn't have a check valve and is large enough to operate the connected device(s). For example, you wouldn't want the BOV line running to a throttle body nipple since it can't move enough volume to operate the valve.

Ok cool, got it. Are you coming to the meetup on Sunday? It's perfect timing for me, I'll be able to have people check and see if I ####ed anything up. :thumb:
 
I'm not sure yet. Not too excited to drive over 160 miles... If I'm there I'll gladly check it out, but feel free to post up pics in here as well.
 
OK, I need a bit more help. There were 4 EGR hoses on the passenger side connected to nipples under the intake manifold, and I disconnected and capped those nipples.

There are 4 on the driver's side as well, but I can't seem to see or be able to get to where they are connected. Do I need to get to those nipples to cap them off, or can I just yank them out?

*EDIT* I don't think either side is the vaccum source, right? So I don't need to cap any of them under the intake manifold? It looks like they just go straight though.... Can anyone confirm this?
 

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OK, I need a bit more help. There were 4 EGR hoses on the passenger side connected to nipples under the intake manifold, and I disconnected and capped those nipples.

There are 4 on the driver's side as well, but I can't seem to see or be able to get to where they are connected. Do I need to get to those nipples to cap them off, or can I just yank them out?

Those "nipples" are 4 hard lines that run underneath the intake manifold. I would disconnect them from both sides and totally forget about the "nipples" (hard lines). They don't need plugged or anything.

If you can't get the drivers side lines off, then pull harder!
 
Those "nipples" are 4 hard lines that run underneath the intake manifold. I would disconnect them from both sides and totally forget about the "nipples" (hard lines). They don't need plugged or anything.

If you can't get the drivers side lines off, then pull harder!

Excellent, thanks! That's what I thought, I just wanted to make sure. I just yanked them all off. :thumb:

I appreciate the help!
 
Yeah no problem man! I see that your pretty close to where I am, probably about 60 miles away or so. It would be cool to check out your car sometime, what else do you have planned for it?
 
Crap, one more question! What about this sensor thing (circled in pink) that was plugged into the EGR Valve? Yank it out?


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Yeah no problem man! I see that your pretty close to where I am, probably about 60 miles away or so. It would be cool to check out your car sometime, what else do you have planned for it?

I'm going to repaint it and get it looking completely stock. My plan is a 12-second daily driver :D I have a ton of parts to install still just sitting in my garage. Walbro 450, 1000cc injectors, AFPR, FMIC, MBC, 16g, etc...

First up was this, then I'm putting on my Boost gauge and Wideband. Then ECMLink. Then the fuel goodies.:thumb:


There is a meetup on Sunday in Golden CO, you should drive down!
https://www.facebook.com/events/391692654269113/

Facebook says there are 96 people going, so that means about 12 will actually show. :p
 
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