Jdblood202's 1g GS-Turbo

[jdblood202]

jdblood202 submitted a new DSM Profile :

Jdblood202's 1g GS-Turbo


Read more about this vehicle here...

 

[jdblood202]

So, I've had this car for a little bit and just really haven't came up with a plan on what I want to do with it. Well, after reading 9!'clipseDOHC's build journal and story, I want to semi-emulate what he's done, except not so extreme. I live within 10 miles of a dragstrip, I know it's fwd, but I'd like to do more of a drag build on it. I want to use a 16g turbo setup, nothing too insane until I really learn how to work on and drive this car. Goals would be to hit 12s, primary focus for now is dropping weight, adding a little power, and driving experience. I have never driven on a dragstrip before, and everyone here is into American muscle. Hopefully I don't embarrass myself too badly!

 

[jdblood202]

A little about the car. I traded a Yamaha Tri-Z 3 wheeler for this car, I've always wanted a turbo 1st gen dsm. It was a 1 owner car, some older couple bought it brand new and it had a book of maintenance receipts. However, it has been sitting for awhile, some branches fell on it during a storm causing the body damage you see in the pictures, and it has 195k miles. It starts and idles great, although it does not drive. The clutch will not disengage for me to put it in gear. The hydraulic system is fine, I'm thinking it's a combination of the cutch fork being bent, pivot ball a bit worn, and it needs a new TOB, and clutch. I am currently saving up for a clutch, while I'm at it, I'll be getting a lightweight flywheel as well. Little things I already have done, I've dropped the subframe and replaced all the bushings. Front LCA's have all new bushings and Moog lower ball joints. The wheel bearings had some slop, so I found a set of front hubs from a 1990 Talon that had good wheel bearings. AC and power steering have been eliminated. For right now until I can source a manual steering rack, I looped the lines on my power steering rack. I eliminated the emissions, although I messed that up, I'll get into that later, need some advice. I don't really have much for aftermarket parts. I do have a 2g exhaust manifold waiting for installation, as well as a Walbro 255. Aftermarket stuff is going to wait until at least I have a new clutch. Anyways, sorry for the long post. I'll be asking a lot of questions. Progress may be slow due to money, but I try to at least get 1 thing done a week. Thanks guys!

 

[jdblood202]

 

[Vegas Smith]

Very cool. looks just like my first car which was a white Plymouth laser. They can be very fun cars but probably not at the drag strip. That's good that you are already replacing bushings and stuff. These cars are really old now.

 

[jdblood202]

Yea! It's funny to think that in a couple years that car will be 30 years old! And yea, I know I will never be able to really hang with the big boys in a fwd, but there's a couple fwd turbo builds on here that I'll be using as a reference for my build and hopefully I can get similar results.

 

[jdblood202]

Alright. So, for my first "I'm a dummy", post on this car. Before I even did any research, I removed all of the emissions from the car, charcoal canister, the sensors, the only thing I did was to leave the vacuum lines in place. Now, after actually reading on how to properly remove emissions on the taboo speed shop diagrams, I need the fuel pressure solenoid. Of course, I threw that away like a dummy. So. After doing some reading on the forums, I noticed how some people just looped the vacuum line from the fpr to the intake manifold. I did the same to try it out, and while it does start and idle fine, what does that sensor do? Is that something I need to put back? My lines are currently looped like this. Yes, everything is capped off in the throttle body.

 

[jdblood202]

And, this is why I have a terrible time saving up for a clutch! This SBR manifold came up for sale on the classifieds, and of course, I had to dip into my clutch money to buy it! Although, I am excited to see how much of a difference this manifold will make. The stock 1g manifold is on the left, SBR on the right.

 

[jdblood202]

And yes. Most updates for awhile will be pretty boring on this car. But, for right now I am working on "weight reduction". This is the current progress. I will be working on removing the sound deadening, looking for advice on the best way of removing it.

ing material as well, looking for advice on how to remove it.

 

[Spideydsm99]

Using dry ice isn't to bad to get the sound deadening out of there. Keep up the progress and updates!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

The part that you have pictured is the fuel pressure regulator. That is an important part and does need a vacuum source to function. The port on the intake manifold will work perfect.

When I removed my sound deadening material I just used a hammer and a chisel and worked my along the entire bottom of the car. I didn't use dry ice or anything else and it all came off just fine.

My advice would be to prioritize what you want to do and stick to it. When working on a budget you can't get everything all at once. So figure out what you need to get it running and start there (clutch, tob, fork, etc). Then work on what you need to get it running strong and reliably (timing belt?, tune up, bushings, fluids, etc). Then once all of the is done start buying the fun, go fast parts (fuel pump, mbc, intercooler, intake, exhaust, etc). Otherwise you are spending money on a car you can't drive and I've seen a lot of guys lose interest on their projects that way.

FWD's can be very, very fast on the drag strip. Take an AWD and a FWD with everything else the same. The FWD will be lighter and lose less power through the drivetrain. However it will also have less traction and therefore lose (on street tires). Give it traction though and everything else the same, it should be faster. So when you get to that point, you are going to need a set of drag slicks. Street tires won't cut it on a FWD once you start putting down power, even with a limited slip differential, equal length half shafts, solid motor mounts, and stiff suspension. Dedicated drag slicks are going to be absolutely required if you want to put down the power and go fast from a dig with your FWD.

 

[jdblood202]

^ I hear you, and your build thread is one of the big threads that I'm using to inspire my "build", except for sticking with the 14b. And yea. I need to stick to my plan. I can't allow myself to get too distracted. My first overall goal is to get it driving under it's own power. Then, I want to do a stock rebuild of the motor. After that, power mods.

 

[jdblood202]

I don't care to be an absolute menace on the track. I want to hit 12s on a 16g. I think that is very attainable with a fwd.

 

[jdblood202]

Haha, man, it almost sucks looking back at this and seeing how little I've accomplished. My biggest update is I finally finished putting my cylinder head back together. I had torn it to clean it up, replace valve seals, clean up the casting in the combustion chambers, etc.

I did make a nice score this past summer, I found a white 1990 eclipse gs for 100 bucks someone was selling as a parts car. My doors and fenders were a bit beat up, I was able to replace those with ones in far better condition. This car is also serving as my first car that I'm attempting body work. I've really been going slow and taking my time, unfortunately, it's too cold for bondo and paint now, so I'll have to wait until spring for much more progress.

 

[jdblood202]

Nothing exciting. Just a virtually stock head that finally put back together haha.

 

[jdblood202]

This is pretty much how she sits now, in the garage though. I still have some bondo work on the driver side rear quarter panel to get it all straight and smooth.

 

[jdblood202]

Actually, nope. I lied. Looking through pictures from the past year, I got alot more done than I thought. I was having clutch issues, I used that as an excuse to get a new clutch and flywheel, and new shift bushings.

 

[jdblood202]

Turns out though, my clutch "issues" were due to an improperly welded clutch pedal. Whoever did it, didn't pull the pedal all the way forward before welding it haha. I dont have pictures of that, but I replaced the whole clutch pedal assembly. That fixed my issues, I had hoped to at least know it was running and driving before I broke it down for bodywork and paint, and after a test drive to verify everything worked, started the bodywork process.

 

[jdblood202]

This had to be some of the most tedious work I had done in awhile, although, in my opinion, a good way the shed some needless lbs. I dont remember how much it all weighed after I bagged it up, but i want to say it was in the 20 lbs range

 

[jdblood202]

This is the donor car I picked up for 100 bucks

And this was the donor car right before it went to scrap

 

[jdblood202]

Here's the worst spot on the rear quarter panel that I've been working on

Somewhat recent pic of where I'm at with it. I need to get my line straightened up more, and smoothed out a bit. I've been moving pretty slow since I've never messed with bodywork before.