Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Cowl cover is finally complete:


And all the panels have retainers! The rear was the last to get the new ones from mitsu, rust free.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Amazon link

Sofa King close:


I removed the rear wing to epoxy studs back where they go:

 

[Justin DuBois]

These arrived!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Even under the wing is mirror perfect

 

[Justin DuBois]

Heat blanket:
original

make a template

Place on top of a table with big pillows covered with a clean sheet to protect the paint.

Alcohol prep the hood, and contour the heat blanket(as best as possible - its thick!)

Black Floor & Tunnel Shield II™ - 21" x 48"

Use as a barrier to reflect and insulate from any heat source. Designed to provide the best possible heat protection in areas where high temperatures are always present and problematic, Floor & Tunnel Shield II limits heat transfer on fire walls, transmission tunnels, floor boards, fuel cells...

www.designengineering.com

Peel and stick, then rub it down. Its either an improvement, or a big mess

Installed

I’ll say one thing about a light hood. I can work with it solo. No way I could remove and install a stock hood with one person.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Wash, wet sand, prep, adhesion promoter, and primer a few plastic parts now wait 24hrs.

 

[Justin DuBois]

2 coats grey color


2 coats trim black

 

[Dericsh]

Are those the oem screw covers getting refreshed or did you end up using something different to replace them?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Are those the oem screw covers getting refreshed or did you end up using something different to replace them?

Those were provided courtesy of @nismojones , and I refinished them

 

[Justin DuBois]

No more distressed plastic marks,

And the privacy cover lift pins have never been so snug:

This part is looking spiffy - Open

Closed:

 

[Justin DuBois]

The list of stupid little things, is much shorter:

Stripped hood bolts - replaced
Cowl cover button fasteners - MB375995 - purchased and installed
Increase tolerance for the hood pin, and add a thru hull grommet - completed
Privacy cover lift pins - MR189485 - recieved and refreshed
Locate cargo net in storage - located and installed
Rear interior cargo area trim panel clips - MU470013 - purchased and installed
Color match paint under-side of hatch trim panel - completed
Rear trim panel screws with plastic head covers - received and refreshed
Side view mirror interior trim cover push rivets - installed
CF hood heat blanket - Installed
Re-stud the loose wing attachment - complete

In progress:
Body to wing neoprene gasket - sourced and ordered
Hood struts - measured and ordered
Both left and right side view mirror interior trim covers - located and purchased
MB881985 - left
MB881986 - right
Matching headliner fastener - MB417490 - located and purchased
Source washer wiper hose retainers - ??
Source not cracked grey door panels - ??
MR707955 - Left
MR707958 - Right
Figure out why the door seal isn’t holding its shape - ??
Locate a pair of the 2" thick side skirt door caps for this year body - ?! maybe !?
MR186136 - Right
MR186135 - Left
Locate fender liner(s) (for turbo cars with ground effects) - ??
MR162457 is LH
MR162458 is RH

Resolve #2 injector circuit CEL:
ECU to Injector wire - OK
Injector to resistor wire - TBT
Resistor - TBT

and then… Timing belt time - PS Pump refresh - Throttle Body refresh and Resolve ABS light

 

[Justin DuBois]

Got around to looking closer at the door seal,

Found the outside edge a little out of shape, and not in the groove behind the rail edge.
I found it hard to put the outside edge into the groove last, so i pulled it back out from the short end, tucked the outside edge into the groove first, then with a little pressure and the occasional prod with a large dull plastic blade, like you use for spackling paste on a wall, masaged the seal back into the groove.

One more list item completed.

I just found this coupler for the washer nozzle tubing is also a check valve! Glad to still have this. I’ll put it befor the Y - thank you very much.

And now back to actual work towards driving - The injector resistor packs pass the 6.0 ohm check. There is continuity between the injector and the resistor pack plug. I gave the connector a nice shot of connector cleaner, dried it…
so nothing obvious with the connections. I’m still suspect of the injector, or the ecu, or any heat related failure.

Thinking I will start to eyeball all the parts that need to go to Rich for refinishing while I take it down for some reliability improvements.

 

[Justin DuBois]

1/16” adhesive backed neoprene is perfect for the wing gasket:

Cut to shape, peel and stick:

Scratch one more task off the list.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Finally got a combination of parts for hood struts that work for my hood.

Using brackets, studs, and washers from the e-bay kit, and a fender bolt location for the ball studs, I needed 12” struts to get the hood full open. The strut pictured here has 30lb of lift, which won’t raise the CF hood on its own, but will hold it open after a light lift.

Another list item completed

 

[Justin DuBois]

Solid gold parts from Japan!

The dealer can still get these given enough time.

 

[Justin DuBois]

CEL - I've tested the wiring, the resistor pack, and I have swapped injectors, and the injector #2 circuit malfunction DTC is still popping up with no change in behavior. I think this means my ECU needs to get checked out.

ABS - Grounding pin 1 at the OBDII port did nothing. Turning on the key, the ABS light comes on, flashes 3 times, and then goes back to ON - very quickly.

Seems like a 4 wheels off kind of ABS sensor inspection, and ABS pump connector inspection is needed.

 

[Justin DuBois]

No codes from the ABS computer, and no way to resolve the injector code that leaves me with any confidence. grrrrrr

Aaaaaaargh!!! ok fine.
ECU is out and now I need to pack it up to go to ECMTuning for some better diagnostics.



And yeah, I looked inside.

If there is something wrong, I cant see it looking at it like this.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I moved it before I yanked out the ecu.


It’s probably gonna be sitting here a while now.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Details details…
Washer sprayer hose retainers: Dremel with cross cut burr an and mini hand files make clean holes in fiberglass.

One corner of the heat blanket adhesive was not sticking well, so I added some retainer clips for peace of mind:

Baring some new issue, this hood should be done for a while

 

[Justin DuBois]

:In progress:
Body to wing neoprene gasket - sourced and ordered
Hood struts - measured and ordered
Both left and right side view mirror interior trim covers - located and purchased
MB881985 - left
MB881986 - right
Matching headliner fastener - MB417490 - located and purchased
Source washer wiper hose retainers - ??
Source not cracked grey door panels - ??
MR707955 - Left
MR707958 - Right
Figure out why the door seal isn’t holding its shape - ??
Locate a pair of the 2" thick side skirt door caps for this year body - ?! maybe !?
MR186136 - Right
MR186135 - Left
Locate fender liner(s) (for turbo cars with ground effects) - ??
MR162457 is LH
MR162458 is RH

Resolve #2 injector circuit CEL:
ECU to Injector wire - OK
Injector to resistor wire - TBT
Resistor - TBT

and then… Timing belt time - PS Pump refresh - Throttle Body refresh and Resolve ABS light

Lets see, where are we in the list:

Body to wing gasket - installed
Hood struts - installed
Washer hose retainers- installed
Door seal - re-installed

In progress:
Mirror Trim - in hand - needs reinforcement
Matching headliner clips - in hand
Resolve Injector CEL- ECU shipped to ECM Tuning
ABS light - investigating
Positive battery terminal cover - amazon ordered

Parts with Rich Howell:
Throttle Body - refinish and rebuild
Power Steering pump - refinish and rebuild
2Gb CAS - refinish rebuild - rewire
Hood Latch - re-spring and refinish

Things to locate:
Adjustable CAM gears
Fender liners
2” thick 2Ga door caps
Grey door switch trim
Washer nozzles (that don’t suck)

Things to do:
Timing belt
Water pump
CAM install
Kiggly Crank sensor install and rewire

 

[Justin DuBois]

Lol, this - large mil spec battery terminal cover is comically large, or at least I thought it was, until I decided to try it.
Amazon listing


And it just fit over all the wires:

So yeah. That should pass tech inspection.

 

[Justin DuBois]

This replacement harness plug is a perfect fit

 

[Justin DuBois]

Sooo, ya know when you take off one part, and then another, and then…

ECU arrived at ECM Tuning, so now I wait. The waiting turned into me putting the car on jack stands with 4 wheels off, prepping for a timing belt, water pump, PS pump, throttle body, heat shields, and cam swap.

And then you look at all the parts you can grab now, to send off to be powder coated to slow the progress of corrosion.


Hot Parts

 

[Justin DuBois]

Before I touch the T-Belt in a perfectly functional motor in the car, I decided to use the motor on the stand to dress rehears the steps and tools needed to install the Kiggly trigger plate, and I’m glad I did.

Getting the crank bolt out is proving to be a formidable effort. I always had proper shop tools previously, and I’ve never tried to do this on the floor, without a lift, with the motor hanging in the car.

Frankly, on the stand is sooo much better than doing it in the (mint fresh body and paint) car.

Never being afraid to go to 11 (out of 10) difficulty has been this car’s destiny

So here we are still learning, problem solving, but now, no real limits on how much time to take to get it done.

Enjoy -

I need a tool, I have other tools, and some spare steel.

I decided to mark one end of the bar with primer, which was quick, but not 100% sharp edged, so I checked with digital calipers and used a T-square to align, scratch and punch center for a couple holes. Used tap oil and drilled out with a stepped bit to the same diameter as the crank pully holes.


I then bolted the tool to the crank pully.

and scratched a line to the same ark as the outside edge of the lip on the crank gear.

Using a jigsaw with a blade for metal, I made perpendicular cuts up to the arc edge every 1/8” or so, and then cut out the remaining metal with diagonal rough cuts until the blade came parallel to the desired edge.
In a vice, used an angle grinder to smooth out the rough cuts, and approach the line.

Using a dremmel with 80ish grit emery paper cylinder, I take the line removing any rough or sharp edges.

Next it is bolted onto the crank gear, checking tolerance at edges of the gear and bolt holes, and boom - 32 inches of leverage. and it wasn’t enough.

Also, it was starting to show stress fatigue.

I looked for advice, and came up with a new plan.

 

[pauleyman]

Whatever that is on the bar it isn't stress fatigue. Looks like scratches from your vise. Bar looks good. I don't see a problem. Put a breaker bar on the crank. Use a socket not the square hole.