The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Throttle Body - Rebuilt

It is time to swap in a rebuilt 1G throttle body. I have had a long standing issue with the shaft seals, waiting to be addressed and today is finally the day
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Amazed the old gasket came off nearly intact.

Rich Howell gave my e-bay 1G TB find a complete overhaul and refinish. Here are the comparison photos:
New mil-spec shaft seals, half-shaft mod powder coated gloss black and a killer silver/sparkle/clear combo for accents. Polished brass, and a 2G mod to better work with the EGR vacuum lines, which leave an additional port to support the bottom nipple on my greddy BOV.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Super Bad ass job - did me proud people!

New Gaskets, a slight tweak to the water lines, and it’s right were it goes, torqued on to spec.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Phase 1 (Exterior)
Things to locate:
Washer nozzles (that don’t suck)
2” thick 2Ga Eclipse door caps - Looking!

Body Shop:
Paint 2Ga door caps
Protective film install

Phase 2 (Engine and Interior)
Things to locate:
Low profile adjustable CAM gear hardware
Grey plastic interior door switch trim

Exhaust manifold studs and nuts (located!)

In progress:
Hood Latch - re-spring and refinish
Crank Pulley - Clean and paint
Bunch-o-brackets - Clean and powder-coat
Water Pipe powder coat
Water Neck powder coat

Things to do:
Interior Mirror Trim - epoxy reinforcement
E3 Manifold heat shield bolt repair (repaired!)
Modify TB Covers - cut and install (modified!)
H2o overflow sensor harness plug - (installed!)

PS Pump install - (when brackets return)
WEB Cam install - maybe?
2Gb CAS install - (requires a threaded intake cam)

Phase 3 (Suspension and Sub-frame)
Things to locate:
Front fender liners
Suspension arms with new ball joints
Suspension arm pivot replace or service
State of the art coil over struts - (OHLIN)


Things to do:
Refinish 3" exhaust components
RM AWD rear sway bar install
Rebuild and re-finish brake calipers
Rebuild and refinish suspension and sub frame components as needed
ABS light investigation (after driving again)
Track day alignment
 
Last edited:

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
This is the improved cut to the good timing cover. This allows the top and bottom covers to have 5 bolts or more so hopefully they will hold shape, and still give access to the tensioner.

It is much easier to remove them as separate covers regardless.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Drown myself in as many clean rust free powder coated parts as I can.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Time to hang the AC compressor back on the engine. I forgot how big of a PITA it is to get that sucker aligned to bolt back on, by touch.

After several frustrating minutes, I decided to use a rope trick to hold the weight, and get it closer to where it goes, and get the bottom timing belt side bolt started first.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
AC compressor back where it goes.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Next done - bunch of random tasks, working towards bolting powder coated things back in the engine bay.

With solenoids back on the bracket, the updated hose configuration can go forward. Ports P and E now go to the same backside Throttle Plate source. I removed a T and cut a couple new hoses to go direct to the TB ports individually.

Now none of the ports will be capped. Looks less modified?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

With the AC compressor in place, the AC hose bracket can go on.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Brake Fluid Reservoir bracket, and wire harness tie down back on
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Put the Alternator bracket back in place
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Minor hose routing and shortening, groups and hangs better.
Before:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


One of the nuts in the back cover under the motor mount was binding up on the bolt, so I cleaned up the threads with tap and die.

Lower cover and hardware, Installed.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

CrackedDSM

Proven Member
1,857
519
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Love seeing DSMs keep their A/C. Bring back fast with class!


Love the build and the rope trick. Gonna have to remember that in the future as I’m gonna keep the A/C as well(Florida without A/C sucks. I don’t care who disagrees. Lol)
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Love seeing DSMs keep their A/C. Bring back fast with class!


Love the build and the rope trick. Gonna have to remember that in the future as I’m gonna keep the A/C as well(Florida without A/C sucks. I don’t care who disagrees. Lol)
Oh I got a story about A/C.

I was being Mr smart guy, and removed the A/C belt before an epic road trip called Open Track Challenge, where in the touring class, you are required to drive your street registered track day car from track to track, 7 days in a row, Track event each day.

As we are leaving from home in LA (at the time) on our way to Pahrump - Nevada, (middle of summer) I dropped the news to my GF, now Wife that we have no A/C. She just looked at me gob-smacked, and said, you do know where we are going right? We are going through the middle of the desert, and its 105 deg in the shade.

Needless to say, after a shirt soaked sweat fest on the road, I put the belt back on that evening. And it has stayed on ever since.
 

CrackedDSM

Proven Member
1,857
519
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Oh I got a story about A/C.

I was being Mr smart guy, and removed the A/C belt before an epic road trip called Open Track Challenge, where in the touring class, you are required to drive your street registered track day car from track to track, 7 days in a row, Track event each day.

As we are leaving from home in LA (at the time) on our way to Pahrump - Nevada, (middle of summer) I dropped the news to my GF, now Wife that we have no A/C. She just looked at me gob-smacked, and said, you do know where we are going right? We are going through the middle of the desert, and its 105 deg in the shade.

Needless to say, after a shirt soaked sweat fest on the road, I put the belt back on that evening. And it has stayed on ever since.


Absolutely. In my younger days I'd pull the A/C out and pretend that it wasn't absolutely hellfire misery in the car for an extra 10 hp and maybe 10lbs of weight reduction, but as I get older..I like my creature comforts too much. I think my favorite car to date was my 2GB Eclipse. Had A/C, power steering, electric everything, leather power seats, etc. Tuned on a 14B/black box ECU, it wasn't a world beater but it pulled great, sounded great, and was just so generally enjoyable to drive. Gonna mimic that with the Talon as best as I can. Stock converter, 16G-ish turbo/power, and all the comforts I can have.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Manifold maintenance:
I have new heat shields, and bolts. The threads in the cast iron hot parts needed some cleanup, to remove the built up high temp anti-seize.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

These bottoming taps are progressively flatter at the end, and after a couple rounds with each, the bolts thread in smoothly by hand.

One of the taps has a snapped off bolt. That’s going to take a little more effort to remove.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California

CrackedDSM

Proven Member
1,857
519
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Manifold maintenance:
I have new heat shields, and bolts. The threads in the cast iron hot parts needed some cleanup, to remove the built up high temp anti-seize.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

These bottoming taps are progressively flatter at the end, and after a couple rounds with each, the bolts thread in smoothly by hand.

One of the taps has a snapped off bolt. That’s going to take a little more effort to remove.

Where’d you get the new heatshields from? Do you have the turbo heatshield too? Nice work, gotta do the same to mine for sure.
 

Mello

Proven Member
1,417
567
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
Clutch Reservoir Cap is MB555135 and also shows discontinued. Google search comes up with lots of hits for it though. They were used on numerous platforms so you might be able to still find one. Are you wanting a new cap because of discoloration? I've Purple Power cleaned mine & it removed all the discoloration & restored them (brake & clutch) back to pearly white.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Clutch Reservoir Cap is MB555135 and also shows discontinued. Google search comes up with lots of hits for it though. They were used on numerous platforms so you might be able to still find one. Are you wanting a new cap because of discoloration? I've Purple Power cleaned mine & it removed all the discoloration & restored them (brake & clutch) back to pearly white.
The rubber on the caps is now very old, total deteriation is probably near. I was able to locate the reservoir caps at EXTREME Psi! I'm getting new now so the rubber will last many more years without deterioration.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
I’m running out of parts back from Rich to install. The next batch is in progress.

With the o2 and turbo housing bolt holes cleaned out. I can put the o2 sensor back in and put the lower heat shield in place. 12-15nm is snug, not cranked on tight. I’d rather replace a bolt that falls out than have to drill and tap a stuck bolt.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And I found a small bullet connector and some wire loom to fix the PS pump pressure switch wire.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

CrackedDSM

Proven Member
1,857
519
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
I’m running out of parts back from Rich to install. The next batch is in progress.

With the o2 and turbo housing bolt holes cleaned out. I can put the o2 sensor back in and put the lower heat shield in place. 12-15nm is snug, not cranked on tight. I’d rather replace a bolt that falls out than have to drill and tap a stuck bolt.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And I found a small bullet connector and some wire loom to fix the PS pump pressure switch wire.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That looks incredible.


So uh, if one wanted to buy your old rusty turbo heatshield, how much would you sell it for? :p
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
That looks incredible.


So uh, if one wanted to buy your old rusty turbo heatshield, how much would you sell it for? :p
I’m probably going to refinish the old one for the backup motor on the stand. You would be surprised by one of the heat shield I recovered. My original shield was looking rusty 15 years ago. I stripped it down with a SS wire wheel on a buffer, then hit it with some cold galvanizing primer. On top of that, I used a product that was hanging out in the RRE paint cabnet called “Steelit” - a stainless steel incorporated spray paint. It held up well for 10 years. It’s still pretty good. Id use it today, but It has an EGT probe hole cut that I don’t need or want anymore.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Finished this repair of the harness plug for the H20 reservoir empty sensor.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This plug is located in a high traffic area, where the hood prop snaps closed. This should last a while now.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
679
493
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Could not resist a little pre-look. I’m going to unbolt the manifold and do my best to drill out the stuck bolt, but before that, I can take a look at the new shield.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top