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Is turbo blown or not?

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VicBoost

15+ Year Contributor
476
2
Nov 14, 2005
Winnipeg,
Hey guys well i turn my car on and whiteish smoke comes out, and then at idle white smoke is coming out as well. Does this mean my turbo is gone. How can i check if my turbo is a goner?

Is there anyone here with a used t28 because i just need a used turbo not looking for a 16g or anything because i'm selling the car. Or if you any of you guys have a turbo that will fit let me know.
 
I would still do a compression check on the engine. You really dont want to be driving the car around if it has a bad head gasket and unless you have synthetic oil white smoke is 90% of the time coolant and not oil.
 
Okay guys my bro actually put in castrol GTX high mileage but its no syntehis... you think that would be the problem? Its still smoking and its making me really mad what could it be!!! I checked coolant fine, gas is fine i checked it and its not burnt or low, turbo fine only a little bit of shaftplay. Help guys!! I think im going to go get some synthetic oil and see if that helps my bro is my car has high mileage so he put that castrol high mileage crap in there!! :(
 
Do a compression test you can rent a tester from Autozone for like $25. It is really easy to do you can find directions in the vfaq section it takes like 15 minutes.
 
Like previously stated, you should do a compression test and if you get bad news do a leakdown test to determine the source of your problem (if you don't want to do it yourself at least pay a mechanic to do it). Once you see how bad the compression/leakdown numbers are you can post your results and we'll help you decide between relentlessly monitoring your coolant level while looking for the leak, or pulling the head.

Most issues with burning coolant involve the cylinder head not sealing properly, which allows the coolant and oil to mix along with allowing coolant into the combustion chamber. You might have a blown headgasket or worse, a warped head. If you continue to drive the car without fixing a coolant issue you are risking the entire engine. I strongly suggest you do yourself a favor and follow the advice people are giving you on this. It's not happening because you spilled oil on/in the valve cover.
 
Like previously stated, you should do a compression test and if you get bad news do a leakdown test to determine the source of your problem (if you don't want to do it yourself at least pay a mechanic to do it). Once you see how bad the compression/leakdown numbers are you can post your results and we'll help you decide between relentlessly monitoring your coolant level while looking for the leak, or pulling the head.

Most issues with burning coolant involve the cylinder head not sealing properly, which allows the coolant and oil to mix along with allowing coolant into the combustion chamber. You might have a blown headgasket or worse, a warped head. If you continue to drive the car without fixing a coolant issue you are risking the entire engine. I strongly suggest you do yourself a favor and follow the advice people are giving you on this. It's not happening because you spilled oil on/in the valve cover.

Okay i guess im going to take it too the mechanic and see whats up because i don't have the tools. Hopefully its nothing bad. You think not using syntehitc oil would be the problem? I used castrol GTX with highmileage:confused:
 
I honestly don't think it has anything to do with the type of oil you're using. If you want to be sure, go get a lighter and burn a capfull of it to see if it yields white smoke.

Yea i don't its the oil either because when i take dipstick out the level of the oil is fine and it doesn't look burnt. Well since i don't have the tools i will be taking it to a mechanic. Thanks for roughly telling me the problem so no mechanic can make up other bull shit. Hopefully its nothing serious.:(
 
Okay guys im trying to take the head off but it ain't moving i took off all the bolts and timing belt cover still not budging. Trying to see if the headgasket is cracked. If any of you guys got a good tutorial for this let me know, can't find anything on vfaq.... from what i saw.
 
You need a manual. Buy a Chiltons or a Haynes manual pronto and follow the instructions in it. If you pull the head, you will need to replace the headgasket regardless of whether it is blown or not.

To remove the head you will have to disconnect the intake manifold brace on the back of the engine, or remove the intake mani altogether. I'm guessing you forgot this step. I'll assume you correctly removed all the headstuds after you pulled the valve cover and the timing belt.
 
You need a manual. Buy a Chiltons or a Haynes manual pronto and follow the instructions in it. If you pull the head, you will need to replace the headgasket regardless of whether it is blown or not.

To remove the head you will have to disconnect the intake manifold brace on the back of the engine, or remove the intake mani altogether. I'm guessing you forgot this step. I'll assume you correctly removed all the headstuds after you pulled the valve cover and the timing belt.

So im assuming the headgasket install is very complex? If anyone has the tutorials on a install that would be awesome. Where can i get this chiltons or haynes manual?
 
Ive seen half a dozen member recomend a compression test and they are exactly right. If your head gasket is going but not gone yet you may not see the small drop in antifreeze or you car may not overheat. I had an eclipse that had a complete rebuild in it with a 1000 miles on it from car king. It started smoking the first thing i did was check the compression the problem with this one was a scortched cylinder wall. My mecahnic said it was probably from an improper seal on the head gasket which in turn put some heat into the cylinder wall from me driving it when i shouldnt of. So before you screw yourself like I did CHECK IT NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Quick question guy you remember that oil on top of my valve cover and thought my brother spilled it, well i found out i have a crack on my valve cover where oil is seeping through which in return is lowering my engine oil :( You think this could be the reason instead of the HG. Man these cars are just pissing me off:mad:
 
Yea, its the cars fault that someone cracked the valve cover.

EDIT
I didnt mean that in a negative way, dont get to overrwhelmed and just think this through. You will get this fixed.
 
I'm thinking that the valve cover cracked because of another related problem.
Have you checked compression yet?

No i haven't checked that yet, im just going to replace valve cover because the crack is no good. Then dsm buddy will help me take of this HG. Also what should the compression read, or whats a good #?
 
By the sounds of it he has already pulled the majority of the head off other than that bastard intake bracket! Too late for a compression test...you may not notice anything now, even with the gasket off. Once you get the head off let us know what you find


and once you get to putting the head back on pay VERY close attention to the timing section...you usually only get one chance to make this right!
 
I actually didn't take anything off yet...LOL. Thats what i was wondering whats good compression #'s?
 
Vic, you posted here for advice, yet you are not following any advice anyone gives you, and you keep posting random crap trying to come up with an easier solution. It's not going to work. Do some research on your own, most of the answers you will need to simple questions (ie: what compression #'s are good?) are already on this site. Use the search function, it's here for this very purpose.
 
this is the last time I try to help. Go to autozone, rent a comp. tester. Then purchase a chilton or haynes manuel. Order a Cometic or MLS headgasket and get the head decked (checked). Purchase a new timing belt and tensioner and ARP headstuds. Then re-assemble everything. If you have a dsm buddy who knows how to do this call him up and with all the parts you can have it done in a day or two tops.... I did my cams in 5 hours (not a mechanic, just an 18 year old) and a head/gasket only takes a few more hours.

PLEASE LISTEN TO PEOPLE OR SEARCH
 
DO NOT use eBay to buy a headgasket. You will regret is when it blows up in your face 1 miles after you do a complete head job.

www.mentormitsubishi.com and get a OEM composite headgasket. It seals the best and is capable of holding more than what most DSMers will throw at it.

I didn't read the whole thread, but did you do your compression and leakdown tests ? If not, how do you know it is a head problem?
 
Where do I start...

Side-side turbo shaft play is fine as long as the compressor wheel fins aren't touching the compressor housing. In-out shaft play (trying to pull the wheel out the inlet) is bad; you don't want any in-out.

Next, it sounds like you were mistaking the valve cover for the head. The valve cover is kind of a pain to get off, because the gasket between it and the head sticks the two together. You have to be careful, but you can pry the two apart; you need to avoid scratching the mating surfaces of the VC and head. If you have a cracked VC, you'll probably want to replace it. Oil in the spark plug wells will lead to plug wire arcing which will cause misfiring. You'll need a complete valve cover gasket set which includes a big gasket that goes around the outside of the VC/head, four spark plug well gaskets, and a half-moon plastic piece for near the end of the exhaust cam. You'll also need some RTV when putting the VC back on.

You can buy a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car at Autozone, etc. Get one or you're just going to do damage to your car or yourself.

But before you do that, buy head gaskets or tear the head off or do anything else, DO A FREAKING COMPRESSION TEST!!! It's simple (10 minutes) and costs $50 to buy a tester presuming you have a spark plug socket. And you'd realize this if you'd only read the threads folks are kindly providing to you. Here is a good site for compression testing, but you must carefully follow the instructions:

Link to compression test how-to. But make sure you do it on a warm motor; that link doesn't explicitly state it, and it makes a huge difference on the results of the test.

Don't do anything else until you've done the compression test and posted the results on this forum.

The overflow bottle is the white bottle by the air filter.

Do yourself and everyone else a favor and go DO the suggested tests.
 
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