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1G is this normal?

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97420aNT

Probationary Member
25
0
Oct 18, 2009
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
So i have a 1990 awd turbo talon and right now i have no spark. So i hooked up a inline tester and pulled the mpi fuse by the positive battery cable. So when i pull the fuse and turn the key on i dont get a check engine light, is that normal. I put the mpi fuse in and the check engine light comes on.
 
When you turn your key on the CEL should come on for about 5 sec then turn off...
 
Well considering the mpi fuse is the main power fuse for your car of course the cell light won't come on with it not in. What exactly is the inline tester you are using? Have you tried using a scanner to scan for any codes? Have you checked all your fuses yet? Tested the coil packs, cas? As of right now the check engine light really does nothing to help figure out your problem bro, unless you have a bad cas you might get lucky and have a code for that, most likely you don't. I suggest you sit down and read/learn way more about your car before going any further! These cars can become very expensive if you don't know what your doing or paying someone else. And even worse you can destroy them very quick if you don't know what to watch out for or what your doing!
 
As DSMkauai already said: "you should know what you do". Or even know what should happen if you do something.
Most times it is better to ask before just trying to pull fuses or disconnect plugs randomly (dont wanna know what you did before until you pulled that fuse). ^^

To the topic:
Has the CEL been on before? Or did you just have no spark? Fuel pump running while cranking over?
Would be useful to know how the problem occured. Did you change somthing? What have you already done to fix or locate your problem?
 
If the ECU is good, or otherwise receiving good power, when you turn the key to the ON position, the check engine light should come on, and the boost gauge should instantly shoot up to the 0 position. The check engine light stays on for five seconds, then turns off. Check the cam angle sensor plug and wires, and also make sure the power and ground terminals at the battery are clean and secure. These are the easiest to check first.
 
So i pulled the CAS out of the head with the key on turn it by hand and i get fuel pressure and injectors clicking but still no spark. Does this eliminate the the CAS being bad or can it still be causing a no spark. I will pull the power transistor off and test it tom. along with the coils.
 
The power transistor could be at fault, or just the plug. Now that you've removed the cas, you need to put the motor at top dead center and align the marks on the cas before putting the cas back on to ensure it wont be 180* out of phase. This is the only way to properly install the cas.
 
I know how to reinstall the cas that is not a problem. but since the injectors are pulsing and and working fine. does that eliminate the cas being bad or can it still be faulty.
 
yes that does eliminate the cas, i had my whole harness out of the car hooked up to a battery and turned the cas by hand and it fired the coils and injectors.

Check the transistor and coils like you said man, Prosses of elimination haha!
 
checked the power transistor and its good. checked it with a 1.5v battery just like the haynes manual says. i guess next is the coil pack even though its brand new.

Tested the ignition coil
Specs. are primary coil- 0.77 - 0.95ohms
Secondary coil- 10,300 - 13,900ohms

Test results:
Primary coil 2&3- .97
Secondary coils 2&3- 10.51

Primary coil 1&4- .92
Seconday coil 1&4- 10.35

So i see that 2&3 primary coils are out of specs by .03 of an ohm is that enough to keep it from sparking. And im not getting spark on any cylinder.
 
so did the car just not start one day? what happened? a little more of a back ground would help.

I would check all of your grounds and check for continuity in the harness from the cas to the ecu, from the ecu to the coil. Im 99% sure the coils are triggered on the ground side, just like most everything else the ecu controls. Maybe a small fury freind had some of your harness for a snack.....

also have you rulled out a bad ecu? mine stopped triggering the injectors but everything else worked fine, ended up being the ecu. I believe the same thing could happen on the ignition side as well. Just a thought.
 
Bought the car not running did a rebuild. went to start it and i was not getting fuel was getting spark. Replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255 and installed a afpr with gauge to monitor fuel pressure. getting 46psi of fuel while cranking. Took the fuel rail out with injectors still attached and they are all spraying good fuel. put it back together and no spark but good fuel.
No i have not tryed a new ecu i guess the is the next step. thanks for the help.
 
Sounds to me that you just have a wiring issue, just an obesrvation considering that the injectors started working when you moved the wires around and then the ignition system quit working. Try cleaning and putting dielectric grease in the injector, cas and power transistor plugs and see what happens.
 
Thanks for the suggestion of the dielectric grease. I did try wiggeling the connectors but didnt help. But last night i took the cas apart cleaned it and put dielectric grease on the coil pack connector and the transistor connector and on both sides of the ignition wires. And guess what i have spark now. Still wont start tho but it really wants to. It sputters and sounds like it is trying to fire.
 
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