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is this normal????????

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brad1967

Probationary Member
5
0
Sep 8, 2005
baton rouge, Louisiana
i have just got done with a full rebuild on a car that did not run when i got it and when it is cold the engine idles at 2000/2200 rpm when its first started after the coolant warms up it drops to 800/900 rpm is this normal? how long should it high idle for what are the spec's on this?
 
brad1967 said:
i have just got done with a full rebuild on a car that did not run when i got it and when it is cold the engine idles at 2000/2200 rpm when its first started after the coolant warms up it drops to 800/900 rpm is this normal? how long should it high idle for what are the spec's on this?


my car does the same thing man,,, hope they can help us
 
As long as the car drops to a normal idle within 2 minutes you are okay.
It's just the car warming up. Just like if you were going to bed and pulled a big blanket over you to warm up. It takes a minute usually before you're comfortable.
800 rpm at idle is good. I have mine set at around 850.
If you're idling surging, then I would worry about checking the ISC and adjusting the BISS. Otherwise I would leave it as is for now.
 
well it idles fine once it is warm just runs at or between 2000/2500 RPM when is cold i was wondering if it was a warm up mode? after it warms up it drops down to normal idle.
well actually lower as it has aluminum flywheel just at first start up it was spooking me it is a very fresh engine done up very nice and want it to be perfect for who i am building the car for.
only other issue is no windshield squirter's and the clutch pedal needs replaced as of slack! car was so worn out i have replaced whole clutch system.
but if you guys say they have a warm up mode that ansewer's lots of questions!! thanks a million!!!!! :thumb: :thumb:
is there a way to turn down the cold idle warm up circuit we are putting dsm link or dsm plus on the car to give you more info! all help would be appreciated! i can be found at [email protected]
plus give your guidance i am no car newbie just a dsm newbie been a auto tech for over 20 yrs not done alot of dsm's but learn pretty quickly
 
Right out of vfaq.

The FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) is located in the lower half of the throttle body on the right-hand side. It's purpose is to provide additional air when the engine is cold to increase the idle speed and therefore warm up the engine faster.
You said it will settle to 800-900, that is too vague. The stock idle is 750, follow directions here to adjust the BISS screw and set the idle to 750.
 
mine does samething and sometimes when i hit the brakes around 500rpm it just goes too 0 and stalls... any reason why? But only does this once in awhile when engine warm never does it and never did it in the summer. WTF
 
VicBoost said:
mine does samething and sometimes when i hit the brakes around 500rpm it just goes too 0 and stalls... any reason why? But only does this once in awhile when engine warm never does it and never did it in the summer. WTF


Is your bov blowing into atmos. on the stock maf? If so....thats probly why.
 
Almost all newer Toyotas (I drive them all the time) have a cold idle between 2,200-2,500rpm. Maybe its just what some cars do. I'd say like everyone else, if it settles in a reasonable amount of time, don't worry about it. In situations like that the ECU usually knows best.
 
Does your blow off valve recirculate into the intake?

(I'm not very familiar with the "HKS Stage 3 BOV", but if it isn't being recirculated into your intake then, that is probably your problem)

Look at this picture, the BOV is on the Left hand side,
(Black With a White dot on it the size of a hole in a piece of binder paper)
That black tube that comes downward from BOV is where the air goes after it has been "Blown".
The thing the black tube is going into is the stock intake.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now look at your intake, see if anything is connected to it before it goes to the turbo, if not, you probably aren't recirculating.
 
nope my bov isnt connected too my intake.... well my intake ain't stock either its a ram air intake... so how would i connect them.
 
Search for the answer, its on this site somewhere, and try Vfaq.com

I would search "Dump Tube", "Venting BOV Atmosphere"...

You may want to just go ahead and get the supporting mods for venting to atmosphere...

All the more I can offer is that I know the problem is because the MAS is before the BOV. This makes the reading that it takes inaccurate because that air is escaping to atmosphere and the cars ecu expects that air to be present, and adjusts fuel accordingly. Causing your car to run rich.

I found this Thread to be helpful...


http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197882
 
o yea i heard if you do that u can't really make as loud of a turbo noise when BOV releases the air... which i personally love cuz this "BOV IS LOUD! makes a great noise
 
VicBoost said:
does it matter if its not connected too the intake? and are you sure you think thats the problem? :coy:
It is at least part of if not the entire cause of your problem. This is DSM 101, llahhall has taken you far enough, it's time you search and read about it on your own.
 
VicBoost said:
o yea i heard if you do that u can't really make as loud of a turbo noise when BOV releases the air... which i personally love cuz this "BOV IS LOUD! makes a great noise
And this is where posers are separated from tuners. The quicker you stop thinking image and start thinking performace/substance, the quicker you become a true DSMer. ;)
 
VicBoost said:
okay well.... i try to figure things out see how it goes
what's there to figure out? Whether to be loud but slow or quiet but fast? Just recirculate and you're good to go.
 
VicBoost said:
i first wanna figure out if thats the problem..
I have decided not to give up on you, let's give this one more try.

Let's start with the function of a BOV. BOV is a pressure relief valve that opens to relieve pressure air in the IC pipes when the throttle plate closes (when you let off the throttle) and route it back to the intake pipe in order to prevent air rushing backwards and slam into your turbo causing compressor surge which will destroy your turbo.

One of the top negative effects of improper venting is that your car stalls coming to a stop when letting off the throttle right after boosting, exactly what you have. The amount of fuel the computer will deliver to the engine is solely calculated based on the amount air flow counted at the MAS, the thingy right after the air filter at the beginning of the intake pipe. What happens when you vent your bov instead of routing back to intake pipe? You lose air already counted at the MAS, the computer injects extra fuel for the lost air and your car bogs down and dies.

If this is still not good enough to convince you otherwise, recirculate and find out for yourself. Good luck.
 
oldman said:
the computer injects extra fuel for the lost air and your car bogs down and dies.

I'm Not trying to jack your post, or prove you wrong. I understand you, but i think VicBoost might not. (My friend didn't)(Friend, " Why does it add more gas?")

The computer doesn't add extra fuel, it thinks that it has a certain amount of air that is going to be availible and provides a corrisponding amount of fuel. This is where the problem lies, the computer doesn't know it is missing the air that you are venting, and injects fuel as if it had that air.
 
Reconnect the blow off valve to your intake. I was messing around with mine and almost hit a telephone pole beacause the power steering cut out when the car stalled. If your intake does not have a connection for the BOV then cut a hole in it and put in a pvc pipe with some jbweld. TRUST ME >>> if you have a cone filter people (and COPS) will still hear your BOV and know that you have a turbo. There is no reason to be stupid and vent unless you have a MAFT or some other means of compensating for the lost air.
 
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