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Is this actually fuel cut?

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milby43

10+ Year Contributor
189
0
Aug 6, 2008
Laurel Springs, New_Jersey
93 awd, no real mods. high flow cat, 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust, i forget. 6 puck clutch. everything else stock. newer turbo, if not brand spanking new.

Now the main problem. Besides the supposive boost creep. He said he experienced fuel cut out. He was on a highway and got on it a little bit. He said its probably because it was just starting to stay colder out. But my brother said he had his laser stock 20lbs doing 130mph and never worried about fuel cut out, in the dead of summer or winter.

The guy said he doesnt remember the rpm or boost he was at, but when it happened it was a hard sputter, he said it didnt shut down, just a split second it lost power.

It has an Apexi digital screen device for AFC and an electronic boost controller. I didnt have alot of time with the guy.

Im gonna check the compression this saturday. If i can find someone to go with.

What do you guys think, ask me for anything i maybe forgetting.

Thanks.
Andrew
 
Sounds like misfire. Check connections on coil pack and plugs, make sure wires are good. Pull the plugs and clean them and re-gap to 28.
See if that helps.

Regards
Greg
 
search:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/186971-what-fuel-cut.html


Also it is extremely rare or even possible for someone with the stock fuel system, stock injectors pump and fuel pressure regulator, to be able to run 20psi on a stock 14b turbo. If the guy has datalogging software he would see his injector and pump duty cycles are extremely high at that point, maybe even just held open.

I understand, but its true. I was in the car when he did. But thats not the point right now.



I didnt get the talon yet, this is why im debating getting it. I didnt really think its actually fuel cut out. Cause normally it feels like you hit a wall when it cuts out right?

Personally i think its a boost leak, but with a boost leak you cant have boost creep can you? Cause he said he saw it creeping before. I didnt when i drove it. But if it has a boost leak its gonna make it more rich than its suppose to.

It runs healthy non the less, i think i might get it, and check the gaps on the plugs. Run some fuel injector and fuel system cleaner through a few tanks of gas.

Its got a ripped seat, 130k miles, possible boost creep, boost leak, the interior really isnt that good. and he wants $3000. I just dont see it being worth it.

Oh yea its got a 6 puck clutch in it, and my brother said id probably wear it out real fast from Daily Driving it.

The vacuum is a little high as well, down around 17 18 19 almost 20 at an idle of nearly 1000rpm.
Thanks for all the help guys, i really need it right now.
 
It sounds like your ignition is cutting out on one or more cylinders. Then again it could be a boost leak. Maybe even losing compression enough to cause the cylinder not to be firing. My 95 did this under several occasions. From a bad HG, bad coil pack, bad PTU, boost leak, old plugs. Could be any or a combination.

In terms of if you should get it? If you get it not knowing what it is, id say worst case is a HG. Your looking at big bucks to have the shop fix it. I am not sure but i would guess $1000+. A few $100 if you can swing it yourself. Then again it could also be just spark plugs. Your best bet would ask him to let you do a compression check before you buy it. If compression checks good you are probably looking at a cheap fix, possibly free fix. Visually check the plugs while they are out, they can tell a lot of stories and lead you down the right path.

If you have 3k to spend I would probably be patient and keep looking locally-craigslist. You will be sure to find a better deal!
 
It sounds like your ignition is cutting out on one or more cylinders. Then again it could be a boost leak. Maybe even losing compression enough to cause the cylinder not to be firing. My 95 did this under several occasions. From a bad HG, bad coil pack, bad PTU, boost leak, old plugs. Could be any or a combination.

In terms of if you should get it? If you get it not knowing what it is, id say worst case is a HG. Your looking at big bucks to have the shop fix it. I am not sure but i would guess $1000+. A few $100 if you can swing it yourself. Then again it could also be just spark plugs. Your best bet would ask him to let you do a compression check before you buy it. If compression checks good you are probably looking at a cheap fix, possibly free fix. Visually check the plugs while they are out, they can tell a lot of stories and lead you down the right path.

If you have 3k to spend I would probably be patient and keep looking locally-craigslist. You will be sure to find a better deal!

Yea, a headgasket can be done by me and my brother easily. He done his before a few times. I already asked him if the next i come to see it, if i can compression test it. And he said yea thats fine.

What should i look for in the spark plugs? like what would be bad to see from them?

Its a good deal, even my mom thinks so. Around jersey its hard to find one that hasnt been beat to shit by a kid. But with these problems, im just not sure. I dont want to let it go, cause really its the few "good" deal ive seen around here for too long.
 
+1 for checking the spark plugs.. I had a problem with 'studder' under acceleration. I shortened the gap (pretty much eyeballed it *amateur*) and it went away.
compression check couldnt hurt tho.. altho with no white smoke out the exhaust or oil in the coolant the car is probably ok or at least a cylinder head fix..
 
While the plugs are out you will want to check for several things. Color, smell, oil, obvious defects. Before you start your compression check, pull the fuel pump fuse so you don't soak the plugs while you test. Also put the plugs against the valve cover while cranking to check for good spark. If they are ashy or white, it means your short on fuel or running hot. If dark and smell of fuel your probably missing something on the ignition side. If covered in oil you probably need a new VC gasket and potentially plugs and wires. The compression check will tell the tail of the HG. If you like the car, i would try to use the knowledge of the studering to try and talk the price down. I would bet it needs one of the following: coil, plugs, wires, PTU. All extremely cheaper and easier then a HG/Timing job. Maybe you can talk him down enough in price to finance a new Hg/Timing.
 
Yea, i was trying to talk him down. He said someone offered him 2700 in cash in his face and he didnt take it. My brother said he could just be saying that, bring 2600 and some change. Let him hold 2600 in his hands.

If i bought it, id probably almost tear it apart checking things out. Lets say it was driven spirited if at all, for the 130k. How do you think the internals would be holding up. Cause thats the only thing i dont have the place or time for is taking the engine down to the internals.
 
Yea, i was trying to talk him down. He said someone offered him 2700 in cash in his face and he didnt take it. My brother said he could just be saying that, bring 2600 and some change. Let him hold 2600 in his hands.

If i bought it, id probably almost tear it apart checking things out. Lets say it was driven spirited if at all, for the 130k. How do you think the internals would be holding up. Cause thats the only thing i dont have the place or time for is taking the engine down to the internals.
Where is the car located?
 
Stock and well maintained? Just fine.

THe guy seems sincere, he offered to let us take it home and get it checked out by anyone we want.

He said he change the oil every 3000 miles if not less. He used good oil, i forget what he said though. And he said he used sunoco gas only.

but this is all words out of someones mouth. I hate buying cars haha.

So far right now, i probably wont get to go up there tomorrow. Cause i dont have a ride.

He has an AFC, but no working guage. Can i use the features on the AFC? I think its running too rich, but i dont smell it.

So far this is my list of things to check, feel free to edit it with advice.

1. compression 145 to 150 is stock spec right?

2. turbo shaft play

3. try to see it boost creep. He does have a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust, i heard big exhaust can increase chacne of boost creep.

4. see if adjusting the afc stops the so called "fuel cut out".

5. check out the struts and shit a little bit more. Bushings etc etc.

anything else?
 
Kicking up old thread. Now I found a boost leak after finding another. Its the throttle body plate shaft seals. Cause when i turn it, the air sound changes tones and shit.
 
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