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iguanahotsauce

10+ Year Contributor
238
0
Dec 13, 2010
Vancouver, Washington
So my talon has been running fine for a few months now. I decided to take it on a 2hr drive about 100 miles east. It made it there and back just fine. But on the way back I want to pass somebody and when it hit 4k rpm it wouldn't go any higher. I'm not sure what fuel cut feels like but this could have been fuel cut. So after I got home I wanted to see if it was doing it in every gear and it was. Today I went out and checked my spark plugs and wires because I read in some other threads where people were having similar issues that it could be because of bad plugs but my plugs were fine. They were a little black on the ends but they all looks fine. Then I started it up and hears this clicking noise, it randomly starts happening every one in a while. I took off my timing belt cover and noticed the marks on the two gears were off and I was wondering if this could be happening because the timing belt wasn't put on properly? This never happened before yesterday. I could go WOT just fine in every gear and make it past 4k easy. I was going to take it for a drive today to see if it was still doing it but I figured I would wait to see what anyone has to say. Also any help would be great because i have to go somewhere tonight and this is my only car.

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you could have jumped a tooth, happened to me already it felt fine but when i got on it it felt like shit. so i cut my tbelt off replaced it and the balance shaft belt ....changed the cams and lifters while i was at it hahaha might as well! good luck
you should remover the lower cover and double check and make sure its top dead center
 
What do you mean the marks are off? Of course your timing marks are off - you don't have it lined up. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding you I don't see how you could think that those timing marks are always in alignment. LOL

Line up your timing marks and see if you've skipped a tooth.
Then move to a boost leak test. Post up your detailed results please.
 
What do you mean the marks are off? Of course your timing marks are off - you don't have it lined up. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding you I don't see how you could think that those timing marks are always in alignment. LOL

Line up your timing marks and see if you've skipped a tooth.
Then move to a boost leak test. Post up your detailed results please.

That's what I was thinking. WTF

You need to turn the motor so that the marks line up. ROFL

I'm calling boost leak though, not timing.
 
What do you mean the marks are off? Of course your timing marks are off - you don't have it lined up. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding you I don't see how you could think that those timing marks are always in alignment. LOL

Line up your timing marks and see if you've skipped a tooth.
Then move to a boost leak test. Post up your detailed results please.

I know I don't have it lined up. I'm still new to working on DSMs so how do I line them up? I did a boost leak test recently and I know I have a decent sized leak coming from the O-Ring in the turbo so if I do a blt now I wont be able to tell if it's leaking more air of not. I already have the O-Ring, I'm just waiting for my mechanic to replace it. Is the clicking noise in the video normal?
 
Take the lower timing belt cover off. Get on the crank with a wrench/ratchet and turn it until everything lines up. Line the crank up with the crank timing mark ( I believe its on the block). Then check your cam gear timing marks.
 
do I need to remove any fuses or can I just turn it like it is? I read in another thread that said to remove the MPI fuse
 
I know I don't have it lined up. I'm still new to working on DSMs so how do I line them up? I did a boost leak test recently and I know I have a decent sized leak coming from the O-Ring in the turbo so if I do a blt now I wont be able to tell if it's leaking more air of not. I already have the O-Ring, I'm just waiting for my mechanic to replace it. Is the clicking noise in the video normal?

Use a 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the harmonic balancer (aka crank pulley) until the two marks line up on the cam gears. At that point cylinder one (the one nearest to the cam gears) should be at top dead center (TDC). To verify the rest of your timing marks you would need to remove the timing belt cover.
 
Very important to remember as well is to turn the motor CLOCK-WISE. If you turn it counter clock-wise with the t-belt on it could skip a tooth or more.
 
Use a 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the harmonic balancer (aka crank pulley) until the two marks line up on the cam gears. At that point cylinder one (the one nearest to the cam gears) should be at top dead center (TDC). To verify the rest of your timing marks you would need to remove the timing belt cover.

Ok so I got the lower cover off. First off what is a 1/2" drive ratchet? Sorry I know that's probably a newb question but like I said I am pretty new to working on cars. Also when I got the cover off I noticed there was grease everywhere. Upon further inspection I noticed the cushion like thing behind that's behind the rotor was ripped. What is this thing? and I'm assuming it being ripped is not a good thing and that I wont be able to drive it?
 
fuel cut feels like your hitting a brick wall while driving. check BLT. Also Check your MAS

IMO your timing is good or it would drive like shit all the way to 4k, and idle rough. Start the Car and go to the exhaust put a piece a paper flat against the tail pipe and see if it slaps or is steady... If it slaps then check timing if not then ## good on the timing area.
 
I doubt it's timing, my engine jumped a tooth on both cams once and although it ran like shit, it would still rev fine. But doesn't hurt to check it anyway.

I'd say it's either ignition or ECU related. Leaning to ECU due to this clicking sound you say your hearing. Can you tell us where the clicking was coming from? If it's coming from up under your dash, pull the ECU and have it inspected. Im not saying it couldn't be something else though. It's just that after I read the clicking, thats the first thing that came to mind. (ecu going bad) Because the only thing I know of that can limit rpm is the ignition/ECU or a SERIOUS fuel issue LOL.


Would it free rev higher than 4k?
 
His crank pulley could be seperating? Pictures would help a lot here. Also, a rachet wrench? You attach sockets to it.. Standard sizes are 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch. Breaker bars are usually 1/2".
 
I doubt it's timing, my engine jumped a tooth on both cams once and although it ran like shit, it would still rev fine. But doesn't hurt to check it anyway.

I'd say it's either ignition or ECU related. Leaning to ECU due to this clicking sound you say your hearing. Can you tell us where the clicking was coming from? If it's coming from up under your dash, pull the ECU and have it inspected. Im not saying it couldn't be something else though. It's just that after I read the clicking, thats the first thing that came to mind. (ecu going bad) Because the only thing I know of that can limit rpm is the ignition/ECU or a SERIOUS fuel issue LOL.


Would it free rev higher than 4k?

It revs to redline in park or neutral. The clicking is coming from around the engine. If you watch the video you can hear it. It's not the ECU, I just had it fixed a couple months ago by ECMTuning
 
bump the starter over untill you get the lines close, then use a wrench to turn the crank over to TDC. your cams should also be lined up. if not, you sir have jumped time..

if he jumped time his motor wouldn't be running and his valves would be bent, i been thru it.....

It revs to redline in park or neutral. The clicking is coming from around the engine. If you watch the video you can hear it. It's not the ECU, I just had it fixed a couple months ago by ECMTuning

that clicking sounds like lifter tick to me...i could be wrong...you should upgrade to 3g lifters...
 
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