Is something wrong or am i overreacting?

[iguanahotsauce]

So my talon has been running fine for a few months now. I decided to take it on a 2hr drive about 100 miles east. It made it there and back just fine. But on the way back I want to pass somebody and when it hit 4k rpm it wouldn't go any higher. I'm not sure what fuel cut feels like but this could have been fuel cut. So after I got home I wanted to see if it was doing it in every gear and it was. Today I went out and checked my spark plugs and wires because I read in some other threads where people were having similar issues that it could be because of bad plugs but my plugs were fine. They were a little black on the ends but they all looks fine. Then I started it up and hears this clicking noise, it randomly starts happening every one in a while. I took off my timing belt cover and noticed the marks on the two gears were off and I was wondering if this could be happening because the timing belt wasn't put on properly? This never happened before yesterday. I could go WOT just fine in every gear and make it past 4k easy. I was going to take it for a drive today to see if it was still doing it but I figured I would wait to see what anyone has to say. Also any help would be great because i have to go somewhere tonight and this is my only car.

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[jb2zero0six5]

if he jumped time his motor wouldn't be running and his valves would be bent, i been thru it.....

Not entierly true... I've heard people jumping 3-4 teeth and nothing bent.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

that clicking sounds like lifter tick to me...i could be wrong...you should upgrade to 3g lifters...

That's what my dad thought. He said he has the same problem in his tahoe. But it's fine to drive?

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There is a picture of the thing that ripped open and sprayed grease everywhere that I don't know what it is

 

[jb2zero0six5]

That is the axle or CV shaft boot. Get that replaced ASAP or the knuckles in there will go out and start clicking or come apart from contamination.

 

[niddydsm]

That's what my dad thought. He said he has the same problem in his tahoe. But it's fine to drive?

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There is a picture of the thing that ripped open and sprayed grease everywhere that I don't know what it is

haha i called it (axle boot) yeah dude replace it unless u hear clicking while turning then the whole axle. The ticking does sound like lifter tick and YES its fine to drive u can try lucas OIL ADDITIVE to clear it up unless u want to goto the revised lifter (3rd Gen). Check the MAS for the 4k issue

 

[RipperXX]

Sorry I can't view the vid at work, maybe after I get off shift I can head over to the MWR and view it.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

That is the axle or CV shaft boot. Get that replaced ASAP or the knuckles in there will go out and start clicking or come apart from contamination.

Do I need to get a replacement ASAP if I don't drive it and just leave it parked in my driveway? Also will it be fine to drive it to my mechanic's shop with it ripped like that?

haha i called it (axle boot) yeah dude replace it unless u hear clicking while turning then the whole axle. The ticking does sound like lifter tick and YES its fine to drive u can try lucas OIL ADDITIVE to clear it up unless u want to goto the revised lifter (3rd Gen). Check the MAS for the 4k issue

and what do you mean unless I hear clicking while turning the axle? So you mean like get that tire off the ground and put it in neutral and turn it by hand?

 

[91mits]

lifter tick is common on dsms...u can try changing oil n using 20w 50...thts the recommended one on our cars...could get rid of it..

 

[PieEyedPiper]

iguanahotsauce, I strongly urge you to be cautious with all this information being thrown at you. Some is irrelevant, some is spot on, others are only half truths. It sounds like you have a LOT of questions that would be considered outside the scope of this thread.

Just take it slow, I can only imagine what's going through your head after reading this thread.

Remember:
Step 1: confirm timing
Step 2: boost leak test
Step 3: fire your mechanic and I'll help you install whatever "o-ring" you need to, almost 24/7. For that matter so would 1000 other members on this site.

Proceed with your process and document the results along the way.

However, you do have a cracked constant velocity (VC) axle boot and it has more than likely already leaked enough grease and absorbed enough dirt to ruin that axle in short notice. You can replace the boot for an hours labor and the cost of an alignment or you can replace the entire axle, ridding yourself of the issue for good for the cost of an axle plus 1 hour labor and the cost of an alignment, OR you can buy an axle and install it yourself for free - just don't forget to get an alignment afterward.

Do I need to get a replacement ASAP if I don't drive it and just leave it parked in my driveway? Also will it be fine to drive it to my mechanic's shop with it ripped like that?

You'd be fine in that scenario.

and what do you mean unless I hear clicking while turning the axle? So you mean like get that tire off the ground and put it in neutral and turn it by hand?

No. The CV shaft will "click" repeatedly with load as your try to take off while turning - that is if the shaft is already worn that badly. Either way, you're replacing that axle in the end - even if you just prolong it by only doing a boot replacement.

lifter tick is common on dsms...u can try changing oil n using 20w 50...thts the recommended one on our cars...could get rid of it..

Do not go and run 20w-50 right away, it's pretty hefty stuff. There are some who have had good results, but a majority have built engine or at least a shit-ton of miles on their blocks.

Use the oil weight that the FSM recommends. 10w-30.
You can adjust this by a bit depending on your needs. You live in the North West Territories? Try 5w-20 or 0w-20. You live in the Sahara? Try 10w-40 or 0w-40. Live in a volcano with loose tolerances? Try 20w-50.

When choosing your oil, think about the temps your oil will see, it's intended viscosity at that temperature and what oil pressure you see by redline. Over 100psi is not considered safe and 10psi per 1000rpm is.

One tip to take home is this: No oils are currently thin enough to prevent wear on cold starts. 0w oils are up and coming. Do not dismiss them outright just because Mobil1 makes it. "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY !"

 

[91mits]

iguanahotsauce, I strongly urge you to be cautious with all this information being thrown at you. Some is irrelevant, some is spot on, others are only half truths. It sounds like you have a LOT of questions that would be considered outside the scope of this thread.

Just take it slow, I can only imagine what's going through your head after reading this thread.

Remember:
Step 1: confirm timing
Step 2: boost leak test
Step 3: fire your mechanic and I'll help you install whatever "o-ring" you need to, almost 24/7. For that matter so would 1000 other members on this site.

Proceed with your process and document the results along the way.

However, you do have a cracked constant velocity (VC) axle boot and it has more than likely already leaked enough grease and absorbed enough dirt to ruin that axle in short notice. You can replace the boot for an hours labor and the cost of an alignment or you can replace the entire axle, ridding yourself of the issue for good for the cost of an axle plus 1 hour labor and the cost of an alignment, OR you can buy an axle and install it yourself for free - just don't forget to get an alignment afterward.



You'd be fine in that scenario.


No. The CV shaft will "click" repeatedly with load as your try to take off while turning - that is if the shaft is already worn that badly. Either way, you're replacing that axle in the end - even if you just prolong it by only doing a boot replacement.



Do not run 20w-50 oil in our cars. There are some who have had good results, but a majority have built engine or at least a shit-ton of miles on their blocks.

Use the oil weight that the FSM recommends. 10w-30.
You can adjust this by a bit depending on your needs. You live in the North West Territories? Try 5w-20 or 0w-20. You live in the Sahara? Try 10w-40 or 0w-40. Live in a volcano with loose tolerances? Try 20w-50.

When choosing your oil, think about the temps your oil will see, it's intended viscosity at that temperature and what oil pressure you see by redline. Over 100psi is not considered safe and 10psi per 1000rpm is.

One tip to take home is this: No oils are currently thin enough to prevent wear on cold starts. 0w oils are up and coming. Do not dismiss them outright just because Mobil1 makes it. "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY !"

dude i can send u a link or a pic of a letter concerning the oil we use in our cars by the ceo of forced performance..im not tryna say your wrong but every dsmer i know uses 20w50 as well as a dsm performance shop which is what they recommend.

dude i can send u a link or a pic of a letter concerning the oil we use in our cars by the ceo of forced performance..im not tryna say your wrong but every dsmer i know uses 20w50 as well as a dsm performance shop which is what they recommend.

Which oil

yeah heres the link regarding which oil and a link to article written by forced performance, its all there.

 

[Boostinsideways]

If you read that article it ####ing specifically says that 20w50 is better in built engines with have higher tolerances.

If you read the article and took away "hmm I should run 20w50 in my daily driver 210 horsepower 100k mile dsm then your a true retard. Yeah heavy weight oil will stop leaks, and it will keep your lifters from ticking..... But what is better? Brutal engine wear on cold starts and gaskets that need to be replaced, or fresh gaskets, the correct weight oil, and some lifter tick that you will either learn to live with, or replace the lifters?

 

[91mits]

If you read that article it ####ing specifically says that 20w50 is better in built engines with have higher tolerances.

If you read the article and took away "hmm I should run 20w50 in my daily driver 210 horsepower 100k mile dsm then your a true retard. Yeah heavy weight oil will stop leaks, and it will keep your lifters from ticking..... But what is better? Brutal engine wear on cold starts and gaskets that need to be replaced, or fresh gaskets, the correct weight oil, and some lifter tick that you will either learn to live with, or replace the lifters?

most of the dsmers out there are modded ..dont try to teach me what i have been doing for the past few years...he can run the oil or not..if you look at the forum, its been said 20w50 works better, yeah the forums based in tx..its hot here..to each their own..dont start bashing around and calling names...

 

[yoshi_tony]

chill out! to the OP i didnt read everyones comments but it just sounds like lifter tick if that would be your timing marks at TDC your ticking would sound about 100 times harder

 

[91mits]

chill out! to the OP i didnt everyones comments but it just sounds like lifter tick if that would be your timing marks at TDC your ticking would sound about 100 times harder

im chill don't worry haha...just get real irritated when people start cussing around and calling each other names...grow up ...

 

[Boostinsideways]

Sorry but its just as hot in Alabama as it is in Texas and I wouldn't consider running 20w in my car. My oil pressure is allready high @ start up. 20w is just going to make it higher than it needs to be, creating more wear and tear. Cold starts are where it matters.

The temps we are talking about from region to region are insignificant and could be addressed with a properly functioning cooling system.

More specfically you are trying to backup your claims that you, or anyone else should run 20w50 in your daily that isn't a built engine just because it hawt in texas with an article that says exactly the opposite. Unless your mods include aftermarket pistons and rods then your claims are moot. Yes, that oil is good in a built engine. But a built engine is not a bunch of bolts on and stock 6-bolt.

 

[91mits]

Sorry but its just as hot in Alabama as it is in Texas and I wouldn't consider running 20w in my car. My oil pressure is allready high @ start up. 20w is just going to make it higher than it needs to be, creating more wear and tear. Cold starts are where it matters.

The temps we are talking about from region to region are insignificant and could be addressed with a properly functioning cooling system.

More specfically you are trying to backup your claims that you, or anyone else should run 20w50 in your daily that isn't a built engine just because it hawt in texas with an article that says exactly the opposite. Unless your mods include aftermarket pistons and rods then your claims are moot. Yes, that oil is good in a built engine. But a built engine is not a bunch of bolts on and stock 6-bolt.

okay whatever u wanna say...the link i posted to that forum..its owned by a shop thats been dealing with dsms only for almost 20 yrs..if you read the whole thread..then maybe you will understand..i been running 20w50 now and before and never had an issue and a quote taken from that thread by magnus motorsports themselves.

"Taken from a post on the dsm1gina2g yahoo group:

; on behalf of; Marco [[email protected]]

There are alot of variables that can affect oil pressure. The first and
foremost one is idle speed.
Second, I recommend 20 w 50.
Is your oil pressure regulator clean of all dirt and debris, is it
staying stuck open at idle.
You said you have no pressure at the head, you should be getting at full
rpm at around 20 psi at the head.
Usually worst case scenario, your oil pump may be bad."

to each their own..i will take the advice over a known performance dsm shop thats been around for 20 yrs then some people who think they're "dsm gurus"..on a website anyday.

 

[minimoose]

I agree with mits91 and everyone eles choosing which oil really is a preferance the motor is going to get wear no matter what maby more with the thicker oil but its still just a preferance of what you pick. I have never been to a parts store and they denied selling me the oil i had chose. The only thing i would debate and make fun of anyone for is runing low and no oil. im on eveyones side.

 

[SoNew]

I feel dumber after reading the last page.

 

[project98dsm]

I feel dumber after reading the last page.

+1. Spellcheck and punctuation. You should have to pass a typing test before you're even a probationary member.

 

[minimoose]

+1. Spellcheck and punctuation. You should have to pass a typing test before you're even a probationary member.

OOOO sick burn ... retarted Not everyone lives on a computer.

 

[LandoAWD]

Why are we debating set, simple, basic rules?

Oh yeah; those are not debatable. Back to the topic.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I've amended my statement regarding the 20w-50 oil suggestion to use more flexible language. Sorry to start all that - kinda took me by surprise.

iguana-man, did you get a chance to work on the car today? How's your timing look?

 

[iguanahotsauce]

iguanahotsauce, I strongly urge you to be cautious with all this information being thrown at you. Some is irrelevant, some is spot on, others are only half truths. It sounds like you have a LOT of questions that would be considered outside the scope of this thread.

Just take it slow, I can only imagine what's going through your head after reading this thread.

Remember:
Step 1: confirm timing
Step 2: boost leak test
Step 3: fire your mechanic and I'll help you install whatever "o-ring" you need to, almost 24/7. For that matter so would 1000 other members on this site.

Proceed with your process and document the results along the way.

However, you do have a cracked constant velocity (VC) axle boot and it has more than likely already leaked enough grease and absorbed enough dirt to ruin that axle in short notice. You can replace the boot for an hours labor and the cost of an alignment or you can replace the entire axle, ridding yourself of the issue for good for the cost of an axle plus 1 hour labor and the cost of an alignment, OR you can buy an axle and install it yourself for free - just don't forget to get an alignment afterward.



You'd be fine in that scenario.


No. The CV shaft will "click" repeatedly with load as your try to take off while turning - that is if the shaft is already worn that badly. Either way, you're replacing that axle in the end - even if you just prolong it by only doing a boot replacement.



Do not go and run 20w-50 right away, it's pretty hefty stuff. There are some who have had good results, but a majority have built engine or at least a shit-ton of miles on their blocks.

Use the oil weight that the FSM recommends. 10w-30.
You can adjust this by a bit depending on your needs. You live in the North West Territories? Try 5w-20 or 0w-20. You live in the Sahara? Try 10w-40 or 0w-40. Live in a volcano with loose tolerances? Try 20w-50.

When choosing your oil, think about the temps your oil will see, it's intended viscosity at that temperature and what oil pressure you see by redline. Over 100psi is not considered safe and 10psi per 1000rpm is.

One tip to take home is this: No oils are currently thin enough to prevent wear on cold starts. 0w oils are up and coming. Do not dismiss them outright just because Mobil1 makes it. "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY !"

Thanks for all of the help I'm going to confirm timing today and I will do a boost leak test today as well. My mechanic is actually a family friend that doesn't charge me labor, only for parts. I was thinking about replacing the o-ring myself it's just I don't really have may tools and I don't really have a place to do it at my house. My garage is pack full of stuff so that's not an option and I have two other cars in my driveway. I am probably going to replace my axle. I took it for a drive the other day and the problem that was happening when I hit 4k rpm was gone. I run 10w-30 in my talon right now. I think I might pick up some of that oil additive and see if it fixes it. I'm also planing on running a bottle of seafoam through it right before I change my oil. If the oil additive doesn't fix it I will just have to live with it for a while. I plan on eventually buying another TSi with a 5spd to use as a daily driver and then pulling the engine out of mine now and doing a rebuild. But that's not going to be for a while.

Alright well I called up my local auto parts store and a new boot will cost me $24 and a new axle will cost me $50. As of right now I have been trying to not rive my talon as much as possible but it is my only vehicle. I am hoping to be able to have it replaced soon because I start class again in about a month and that's 20 miles a day that I have to drive. I talked to my mechanic again and he said light driving on it should be fine for a while. I also talked to my dad and he told me that the boots on his tercel ripped an he drove it for quite a while before replacing the axle and it was fine. So my question is, if I don't change the boot right now and keep driving it will it just wear the axle faster? Because I plan on replacing the whole axle it's just a little difficult to find the time and money when you're a broke college student starting your third year