Is my timing really where it should be at?

[EagleTalonTim]

I just went for a test drive and brought my logger with me to log a few pulls. I am currently running my 1g AWD A/T with an EVO 3 16g @ 20psi, 560cc injectors, Walbro 255, Fuel Lab 1:1 AFPR, 2g MAF, 2-1/2" exhaust with no cat, EPROM ECU with chip from DSMChips.com tuned for the injectors, and an SAFC 2. Here is the problem. Before I could get a log of any pulls, my datalogger died on me Before it died, I watched a few pulls before I was able to log anything and I noticed every time I hit 4k RPM's, the knock started going crazy. I tried turning the fuel up a little on the SAFC, then I tried turning it down and I got the same results. The only difference was when I turned the fuel up, the knock did not go as high as when the fuel was turned down. I also noticed that right before the knock started, my O2 voltage spiked up and then everything started from there. The O2 sensor is brand new with less than 500 miles on it. I am starting to think my timing may not be right where it should be so I took a picture of my timing at my HB. Here is the picture :

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Is this set right? If so, what else could be wrong?

 

[TOONAH]

We need a photo of the cam sprocket alignment with # 1@TDC, then you look at the crankshaft pulley notch and it should be exactly 0 TDC. The CAS should be set at that time also. You can not tell if the final timing is right until the base timing is set correctly. I am assuming you want to set your timing at 5 degrees BTC?
I advise you to double check the base timing using the proper alignment of the cam sprockets in addition to the crank pulley notch. You might also want to check that he timing belt tensioner is set right. Those knock sensors are really crude. If the engine has really been beefed up and is a lot louder (Solid motor mounts contribute to more engine vibration)
the knock sensor can give false readings. It can be de-sensitized. Perhaps you need a UEGO and gauge with data logging to prove that the AFR is lean when the knock sensor goes crazy.

 

[My90tsiawd]

I had exaxctly the same thing happen to me on my 1g. I guess you line up your 2 cam sprockets and you get 7.5 degrees off on the crank pulley. Take a ruler and put it on the cam sprockets to see if the outer marks line up with the inner marks. Your timing is probably off from there. Line up your cam sprockets using a ruler and then you should be able to get your timing right. When you'll put the cover back on it should mark 0 degree.

Edit: Are you trying to time ignition timing or cam timing. If it's ignition timing forget about what I just said.
Looks like the pulley is turning on your pic so it's probably ignition timing.

 

[donniekak]

Get a timing light on cylinder #1. Shine it on the crank pulley with the timing connector by the battery grounded. Adjust the cas until the mark on the pulley is at 5* btdc. That is how to set ignition. You will not be able to run 20 psi without a front mount intercooler, on pump gas.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I will check the cam timing later tomorrow after work. If I remember correctly, I have already double checked that a few months ago and everything was perfect, even the balance shaft belt. I do need an UICP, but I did not know it is impossible to run 20psi on the stock IC system with 93 octane.

Yep, I am just trying to ensure I have my ignition timing set where it should be. My car idles perfect with no misses or sputtering through any gear. Vacuum sits at 20 to 21 inHG. There are 0 boost leaks now that I have fixed my BOV.

 

[TJs91tsi]

hey. if you havnt been already... one thing you MUST do when checking your base timing, in addition to having the plug by the battery grounded, is have your logger UNplugged from the ALDL under the dash. if you dont you cannot set the ignition timing properly.

One good thing to check also is take off your cam gear cover, and turn the crank by hand untill both cam gear marks line up and the cam gear dowel pins are pointing up. then make sure that your timing mark on the crank is indeed pointing at TDC on the cover. if not, either your belt is off by a tooth, or your harmonic balancer has slipped and needs replaced.

Tyler.

also, i would turn your boost down a bit till you get this figured out. is the knock boost dependent? does it do it only above a certain boost?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

The chip that I have in my ECU now has the updated knock code to only count knock if under boost. The knock shows up only at WOT with anything above 10psi boost. Lower than that, I am blowing pure black smoke out the exhaust.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You can knock from running too rich. Do you know your A/F ratio? Are you using a wideband? You aren't trying to run 20 psi on a stock 1g timing map are you? If so, you'll need a hell of a lot more than 93 octane with that turbo.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

No, I am not running on the stock 1g timing map. I do not have a wideband o2 just yet. I am working on getting one as soon as i ca afford one.