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ipt / kiggly 6 bolt to 2g problems

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KeelesKustome

15+ Year Contributor
882
17
Dec 29, 2007
Waverly, Tennessee
my problem is that the oe adapter to the crank has a line up pin, and the kit does not what do i do about this?

also the kit does not include this! why? and does it need it? the picture they included show it..
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my kit looks like this

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as you can see it does not have a line up pin hole.

i thought this was the entire direct bolt on kit? :ohdamn:

i can't believe that this many people have done this swap and no replies.......
 
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there is a dowel pin the end of the crank. im sure you can remove it with no issues
 
i have a 98 automatic, i am swaping a 6 bolt into it, this kit is designed to allow them to mate up and not burn up the pump.

apparently my block is a 5 speed, so all i need to do is remove the line up pin on the crank.

and i have oredered the first photo in a 6 bolt as i am positive i need it, even though in some other threads on here, people did not use it. and had problems.

it seems this kit doesn't come with everything you need when swapping engines.
 
There is a bushing in the end of the crank (automatics only) that you need. The tip of the torque converter rides inside of this bushing. Don't forget that or else it will destroy the front pump.

The thing in your first picture is a spacer. Some people have had success without them. It properly spaces the flywheel out so that the starter engages correctly.
 
^^^^^ my kit came with a bearing is that what you speak of?
 
my engine crank,
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the 6 bolt,,, now how do i pull the line up pin out?
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the new line up bearing...

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notice the seals from old to new? is their something different their? and should i be concerned.

i'm pretty positive i installed the spacer correctly.

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and it's my understanding the new flex plate should concave torwards the engine .....correct?

do any of you know what to torque these bolts too?

crank torque spec?

and the torque converter torque spec?

I'll be useing red lock tight as well.
 
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forgot to resolve this thread,
everything works great.

This is designed to bolt a 6 bolt engine to a 7 bolt auto tranny.

Verry important. You need to make sure you have all 2g A/T bolts for the crank and flexplate, as they are different sizes from my experience.
You may have to pull or grind down the dowl pin in your 6 bolt crank if it were a 5 spd prior.

The adapter braket bolts to the engine block with the starter plate on the outside of it as shown in my pic above.

Be verry sure to install the new bearing correctly, I have a good photo above of an oem bearing.

Also the massive flex plate, lets talk like its a bowl, the part you would put your cereal in faces torward the engine concaving around it.
I torqued the automatic crank bolts at 103ftlbs and remember to use red locktight. this is a must. When torquing be sure and stagger your bolts.
you need the 6 bolt spacer like shown on my first post and it should go on the outside of the new flex plate, being on the transmission side squeezing the flexplate to the crank.

The starter plate and shield need to be cut in 1 spot as they will touch the flex plate, i realized this after it was too late and it wore the metal down fairly quickly without any problems, but when you here that intial grind noise it will deffinately worry you.


I also torqed the automatic flex plate bolts to the transmission to 35-45ftlbs red locktight on this as well, do not forget it.

If you get the 6 bolt spacer like the original ipt instructions show, and use all the right bolts, everything works perfectly with no issues whatsoever, amazingly this is one of the few things that did go right with my build.
 
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