blcknspo0ln
DSM Wiseman
- 7,772
- 101
- Jul 31, 2003
-
Central,
New Jersey
hey guys,
I figured I'd take some pictures and put a tutorial of how to make your own IC pipes and FMIC for a 2g. i'm sure the same goes for a 1g, since they layout is similar [ but who knows ]
COSTS:
$200 - FMIC, USED spearco bar and plate core
20" x 11" x 3" core
$59 shipped from JEGS.com - 2 stainless steel U BENDS
Hooker/Dynomax Mandrel Bends - OD: 2-1/4''
Radius: 4-1/4''
Leg A: 6''
Leg B: 15''
289-42428
$35.96shipped - EXM0697 Extreme Motorsports Straight Silicone Hose - Red 2.5"
$13.28 - 14 2.75" t-bolt clamps from pepboys
now for the detailed pictures
first picture shows how I had to modify my bumper for the 3" core to fit. other pictures show how I managed to cut and use all parts of the U-bend to work on my car. I know that there is more piping than necessary, but the end result didn't seem affected by it.
btw, EACH U-bend is for connecting either: the lower end tank to the J-pipe/LICP, and the higher endtank to the existing UICP.
for the UICP > top end tank piping - cut the U-bend directly in half [ at the apex of the curve ] ... the longer end will be cut about 8" [ given you have the same dimensions as my core, modify as you must ] and then you flip the other end of the pipe and put it into where your UICP used to meet your SMIC. now that you have both straight ends facing each other at a 90 degree angle, join the two with a 5-6" piece of straight piping, with couplers.
*edit* In order for you to run the UICP the way I described, you must first take a die grinder to the passenger side bumper bracket. grind the bottom down to where the flared sides are basically non existant. then the pipe will actually REST onto the bracket itself.
for the J-pipe LICP > bottom end tank piping - cut the U-bend once again at the apex. then cut the straight side of that pipe down about another 6". cut the smaller side of the U-pipe down about 4 ".. the straight side will go into where your LICP used to meet your stock SMIC [ bottom end tank ] . joining these two parts of the U-bend with a 6" straight pipe with couplers is the same as above.
I will be modifying the bumper quite a bit once I get my hands on a sawzall.. i'll include that pic in my next post. I saved it from another DSMtuners member, but i forgot who it was [ all credit to them of course for the picture ]. basically the same setup as I did.
voila! you're done, i get about 1 psi pressure drop and she pulls harder than ever
I figured I'd take some pictures and put a tutorial of how to make your own IC pipes and FMIC for a 2g. i'm sure the same goes for a 1g, since they layout is similar [ but who knows ]
COSTS:
$200 - FMIC, USED spearco bar and plate core
20" x 11" x 3" core
$59 shipped from JEGS.com - 2 stainless steel U BENDS
Hooker/Dynomax Mandrel Bends - OD: 2-1/4''
Radius: 4-1/4''
Leg A: 6''
Leg B: 15''
289-42428
$35.96shipped - EXM0697 Extreme Motorsports Straight Silicone Hose - Red 2.5"
$13.28 - 14 2.75" t-bolt clamps from pepboys
now for the detailed pictures
first picture shows how I had to modify my bumper for the 3" core to fit. other pictures show how I managed to cut and use all parts of the U-bend to work on my car. I know that there is more piping than necessary, but the end result didn't seem affected by it.
btw, EACH U-bend is for connecting either: the lower end tank to the J-pipe/LICP, and the higher endtank to the existing UICP.
for the UICP > top end tank piping - cut the U-bend directly in half [ at the apex of the curve ] ... the longer end will be cut about 8" [ given you have the same dimensions as my core, modify as you must ] and then you flip the other end of the pipe and put it into where your UICP used to meet your SMIC. now that you have both straight ends facing each other at a 90 degree angle, join the two with a 5-6" piece of straight piping, with couplers.
*edit* In order for you to run the UICP the way I described, you must first take a die grinder to the passenger side bumper bracket. grind the bottom down to where the flared sides are basically non existant. then the pipe will actually REST onto the bracket itself.
for the J-pipe LICP > bottom end tank piping - cut the U-bend once again at the apex. then cut the straight side of that pipe down about another 6". cut the smaller side of the U-pipe down about 4 ".. the straight side will go into where your LICP used to meet your stock SMIC [ bottom end tank ] . joining these two parts of the U-bend with a 6" straight pipe with couplers is the same as above.
I will be modifying the bumper quite a bit once I get my hands on a sawzall.. i'll include that pic in my next post. I saved it from another DSMtuners member, but i forgot who it was [ all credit to them of course for the picture ]. basically the same setup as I did.
voila! you're done, i get about 1 psi pressure drop and she pulls harder than ever
