The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Installing a coolingmist water injection kit

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

So I finally got around to getting my water injection kit installed and thought I would send in some pics and a few tips in case anyone else was thinking about it and not sure how it went in.

First off. I bought the basic turbo kit. I then added the upgraded water pump, wiring harness, upgraded water lines, fuel filter, 2.5 qt tank and upgraded injectors. I still ended up coming up cheaper this way than buying the deluxe kit with the same upgrades and parts so if budget is an issue I suggest you do it the same way.

As you can see in the pictures, everything came pretty well packaged. I was a little disappointed at the install instructions though. If someone did not understand wiring diagrams, the electrical install can be confusing. The cooling mist web site though has pretty good instructions. Just remember to use the pin #'s on the relay not the wire color of the harness.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
First I mounted the tank and the pump. I decided to get the tank because it came with a mounting bracket already and it already had the water nipples to attach the hoses to. If you wanted to drill and tap barbs to your existing washer tank then more power to you.

To keep from taking the rear panels off that the tank is mounted to, I used those butterfly screws that have the spring loaded clamp on the back that opens up after it is pushed through the hole. The same with the pump. Make sure you notice the direction of the water through the pump when you decide on placement. The kit did not come with any sort of thread sealant. I talked to Mr Hill at cooling mist and he said that normally it isnt needed. So far, I havent had to seal it with anything other than a wrench.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Make sure when you put the water filter in that it goes in the correct direction. There is an arrow to guide you on the side. I then mounted the water solenoid and relay under the hood. I mounted each near the drivers side by the clutch master cylinder. Lots of screws there to hook stuff to.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Next I took off the upper intercooler piping and decided on a location for the injector. Cooling mist recommends after the intercooler but as far away from the throttle body as possible to maximize the chance of the water vaporizing so I chose just as the upper pipe comes out into the engine bay. Also the upgraded injector threads from the outside in so that plays a factor in tightening it down.

I drilled my hole just big enough to get the threads through and then to get the injector in the pipe far enough I stuck it onto the end of a rubber hose to reach all the way into the IC piping. I decided to use some silicon sealant on these threads to try and block the hole in the piping. After a lot of swearing and wrenching down I finally got it all the way in and tightened. Because I am always paranoid of boost leaks I then coated the outside of the threads and piping with JB weld to make sure it was tight and sealed. A little gloss black took care of the visual. It is recommended that the nozzle be pointed into the air stream.
The final pic is an inside view of the nozzle.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Here are the final pics. Notice you can barely see the brass nozzle down in there. I wish I could have gotten the wiring harness a little cleaner but wiring is just not my thing. Finally I tried to simplify the wiring diagram which also includes the clogged nozzle/pump on indicator. Basically it detects pressure in the lines and turns on an LED. When you let off the throttle and boost sensor drops below the trigger point. If the LED stays on it means that your injector is clogged.


I have only had it in a couple of hours and so far I can tell a difference. Mainly my EGT's are down. With the system off at 10psi my EGT at wide open throttle was 1550-1600

With the system on, they are staying around 1450-1550. I need to log my intake temps and timing curves now.

I am using plain distilled water mainly because until I am sure that there are no leaks I dont want alcohol spraying inside the car.

Feel free to hit me up if anyone has any questions or suggestions.

Thanks
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top