The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

installed alternator now battery cell and radiator cell on

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Why did you replace the alternator? I would guess it was because those lights came on and you had to either jump start or the car stalled. The battery light comes on when voltage in the system goes below battery voltage. This is to tell you that there is a charging problem. Not that the ALT is not working but that the power is not getting where it needs to. (i.e. wiring issue). In a lot of cases you will also get a brake light or poss cooling light on at the same times because they are triggered by voltage changes. That is most likely a false reading due to the other "real" problem. Again, make sure your battery and ALT are tested and verified to be good. You could have gotten a defective part.

Good Luck
Rich
VIVIDRACING :dsm:
 
Check if your alternator is charging properly, sometimes the regulators go on those due to the extreme heat from our exhaust manifolds and o2 housing.
 
well it was just installed yesterday and for some reason the battery is readin high to i think he s said 14 normal and 13 underload, this is so damn confusing to me could it be a fuse or somthing? the guy that installed it said the wire are ran like crap under the engine and hood but wouldnt i of had the same problem before?
 
Well, you could try to follow the wires from the alternator to the battery and check for loose connections, make sure the alternator is grounded correctly. You can find the wires that the installer called a bird's nest and search for possible frayed wires. He most likely moved a bunch of them around if they were in his way and he could have possibly put one or more too close to a high heat component and frayed/melted the wire
 
yea how do i reset the ecu? dont u just have to take off the power terminals real quick? and a mechhanic told me to unplug the clip that goes into the alternator witht the key turned so the cell lights are all on and that if the radiator and battery cell stay on that theres a wire grounded in that clip somewhere i also just had the alternator and battery tested again and they are both fine
 
check the fuse (fusible link) for the alternator...it's in the fuse box under the hood. I blew mine once when i swapped out alternators. I'm not sure, but i think it's a 70amp link.
 
i just checked....its labeled ALTERNATOR (CHOKE)....its the on the very top, left corner in the fuse box....and i messed up earlier...it's actually a 100AMP link.
 
and yes, just pull your + battery cable off for like a minute or so..if you want you can touch it to a ground but if you have a stereo in there i wouldnt suggest that.
 
I also recommend getting an aftermarket grounding kit. As soon as I installed one, my charging system was much better, and its odd how my alternator used to go every 6-12 months, but after this grounding kit, its holding over 2 years now without any problems. If your volts go from 14 to 13 underload, its your regulator, its going to hell. Past 3 alternators I had went this way, the regulator was suddenly go stupid and the alternator would evenually cook itself until it is dead.
 
JKGMotosports said:
I also recommend getting an aftermarket grounding kit. As soon as I installed one, my charging system was much better, and its odd how my alternator used to go every 6-12 months, but after this grounding kit, its holding over 2 years now without any problems. If your volts go from 14 to 13 underload, its your regulator, its going to hell. Past 3 alternators I had went this way, the regulator was suddenly go stupid and the alternator would evenually cook itself until it is dead.


well the alternator iv had for a week from autozone and today i pulled the harnes connected to it and the cell lights went out, and its odd that the car still started after pulling the clip is that normal? and because the cell lights went out does that mean the alternator is deffitnitly the problem?
 
AWDPetmitsu said:
Anybody what? I'm guessing the 2nd alternator didn't change anything? Why did you replace it in the first place? How are you sure it's charging? Is your crank pulley separating?


well i didnt put the second one in and i know the last one slowly went and when it did i had to park it 3 times to get it home, when the alternator goes on these cars the cell lights will come on when the battery is close to dead, i had that alternator tested at autozone along with the battery and they said they were fine
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top