Resolved Input shaft seal replace "I'm getting Conflicting Info"

[knytespyder]

I have a couple of questions actually...
First off I have a 99 eclipse GST spyder 2.0 L turbo 5spd fwd. trany model is F5M33
I have a bad trany fluid leak coming out of bellhousing breather holes and fork boot,,either a spider gear pin worked out,crack casing,or input shaft seal,can someone please set the record straight for me,does the trany have to come apart to replace the input shaft seal from the inside of the trany on my model?
If it does have to come apart how involved would it be to replace the seals Input and Output? No problem with differential seals to replace...Is it just a matter of busting the casing loose and seperating it then the seals are accessible?.I havent been able to really get a clear pic of the process yet and this is my only driver rite now
so down time is of the essence.
Also I have read that I should replace 4 bearings Input shaft bearing,mainshaft side bearing,and 2 differential bearings.
So if someone can elloborate on these questions or point me in the rite direction I will research it myself...actually any information I can get on a 99 2.0 L turbo FWD 5spd GST spyder will make my day
Seems like these suckers are a breerd of there own

Thank you all so very much I know its an awful lot to ask and normally I wouldnt..but I have to get this rite the first time..as I have to get back to work soon

 

[pauleyman]

Input shaft seal requires tranny removal and full disassembly. You cannot just remove the bell housing. It doesn't work that way. As for output seals I'm assuming you mean axle seals. Those are accessible and can be done in the car. If you have the tranny on the ground for any reason it's easier then.

 

[bryanwheat]

The transmission will have to come completely apart. The case will need to be split and gear assemblies removed.

 

[knytespyder]

Alright thank you guys
So how complicated is it to disassemble the gears just to replace the input shaft seal..are there any special tools involved?..Or should I take it to a shop and let them do it? What would be a good fair price for a shop to do just the input shaft seal?
The tranny is still working great..its just making a hell of a mess all over everything and I also heard that tranny fluid is pretty flameable...

thanks again and any help would be much appreciatwd

 

[turboglenn]

Good strong snap ring pliers, 14 and 12mm box wrenches and sockets. flat head small and large for odds and ends,a gear puller helps but you can use two wreches or screwdrivers to pry 5th off the input and the VC off the CD... you'll need a good hammer (not a claw hammer now) and a small punch/drift toremove roll pinds, anda a LOT oa patience, also, an old cluch disk and spare 1/22" drive 1" or sosocket can be made into the tool for holdingthe input shaft while you tighten the rear end nuts back to spec on rbeuild..

also,and impact is GREAT with a 36mm socket fortaking those off, even after undoing thepunch marks it takes all effort out, then just a small extension (And long one for bolts) to use something to pop old seal out, and push new one in evenly

also need a 17mm for taking top trnas mount off to get to one bolt..magnetic tray to hold the balls and springs that come out of the VC/output shaft joint and the shift rail spring and balls sete

24mm and 19mm to remove reverse sensor and "oil restrict ball: it's close ot bell housing inline iwth reverse sensor and without taking it out the trans is a bi*** to tget apart or back together right but it's easy to remove

depending on year of trans might need one torx bit for the reverse idler gear bolt thta'son outside of case

but as long as you're not splitting the gear clusters thatss all i can think of besides ratchetsa and a torque wrench and 1/2 breaker bar

Oh and a tube of good silicone, i like the "squirt tube" cans for this job

 

[knytespyder]

thank you TurboGlenn
I have all of those tools.I dont know about the patence 1 though..
Do i need new gaskets..you think?
It is original trans 1999 F5M33 not sure of complete model # GST spyder 2.0 L turbo FWD
and no I'm not going to take the gear clusters apart..just what ever I have to to replace the input shaft seal..yes I will have an old disk as I am going to replace my old clutch system as my disk is starting to slip a little bit if I drive it for to long..{getting trany fluid soaked..Im sure}
You wouldnt happen to have a link to a step by step trany rebuild..I used to have one but I cant find it now

thanks again everyone

 

[pauleyman]

The transmission has no gaskets. ONly seals. cases seal via rtv.

 

[knytespyder]

Alright cool...And I just found a CD "Mitsubishi Service and Repair Manual" I bought a few years back never got to use it PC took a dive but have a new laptop now so i cant wait to ck it out
I'm about 1 week out from doing my trans rite now...............I would like to say thank you to everyone for your quick replys and excellent advice and above all your time
Thank You Very Much
knytespyder

 

[knytespyder]

I just wanted to put a conclusion and results to my trany project and for the guys who took their time to answer all my questions...pauleymann,bryanwheat,turboglenn you guys are awesome thank you
Well apparently I put my clutchdisk in backwards about 6 months prior because it wasnt labeled or not properly anyways and I was in a hurry again.....So what happend is one of the springs broke loose and slamed into the trany housing an punched a small hole in it at the top of the trany thus the leak...but clutch an trany were still working but slinging trany fluid everywheres thats why I thought it was the front seal I didnt realize the disk was coming apart yet..but after a couple of months of the shit all in 1 days it started grabing,crunching,not going into gear,cant get it out of gear,to siezing up on the freeway.....the disk tottally desinegrated...well long story short..I dropped the trany realized the clutch was gone seen the holes an crackes in bellhousing an the small hole in the trany.and found a great dsm trany guy who took the trany apart for me replaced all new seals bearings and he had a good used 2nd gear,he welded the holes and cracks for $400.00...I Had to get all knew clutch parts and a new flywheel..but hey I got off cheap and learned alot..and its all in there rite this time and working great
thanks again guys