Important: Improvements on Saturn Alternator Swap

[Blurred Talon]

I've got a volts gauge so I don't really need the light.

EDIT: I've got the harness pretty much out. There's 1 red wire that goes to the fuse box (to the fusible link for the headlights) from the plug for Alt. I assume this is fine to remove too.

 

[MrKelly]

I'm about to order the maxx 200 amp w/ 2" pulley but I'm not sure which way to go. Should I go with the 1 wire or the traditional regulator, I have a voltage gauge that can be set to flash when a set voltage is hit ( as a low voltage warning and high for that matter) so I don't need the dash light but I have an aem ems, so I might even be able to configure the dash light to work off another input in the harness since I need to turn power to the original alternator plug and gen relay outputs off on the ems. My real concern is whether the 1 wire will perform as well as the way glenn figured out with the 3 wire plug using the sense wire. I planed on running the sense wire to the same spot the alternator wire is going, so is it really necessary? I also was wondering if I should go with 200 or 250 amp breakers. Could really use some opinions guys. I included a drawing of the setup.

 

[talondsp1]

I think the 1 wire can perform fine. As long as the alternator is spinning fast enough at idle, you will be ok. That's about the only issue with the high amp alternators, is output at idle.

I personally like the normal regulator and using the sense wire. I wouldn't worry about using the batt light. Just run switched12v to the F terminal to excite the regulator, then I would run the sense wire to your rear distribution block.

That's all you need to do really. I have an aem ems as well, and this is how I have my 160 amp Saturn alt.

I used a 200 amp breaker, and it would trip a lot. I put in a 150 amp fuse and it has been fine. I might of had a bad breaker. I feel better with the fuse now. Lol.

 

[MrKelly]

just wondering why I would run the sense wire to the rear distribution block and not the front since the majority of the draw is up front, I feel like when the fans kick on or the hid's it would sense better closer to their power source they draw from, note I know the basics, i'm not an electrical engineer by any means but have wired everything up to this point myself. and from what I've read asking for the 2 inch pully should give me decent voltage at idle.

 

[talondsp1]

just wondering why I would run the sense wire to the rear distribution block and not the front since the majority of the draw is up front, I feel like when the fans kick on or the hid's it would sense better closer to their power source they draw from, note I know the basics, i'm not an electrical engineer by any means but have wired everything up to this point myself. and from what I've read asking for the 2 inch pully should give me decent voltage at idle.

I usually see the biggest voltage drop in the back, by my battery where my fuel pump is. Having the sense wire back there, keeps the voltage constant at the pump. The thing is to have the sense wire go to your lowest voltage drop.(wherever that is)

You can hook it up front and you will probably be fine. I would just get the self exciting regulator though, because it is reading voltage from the alternator output, and that is the same thing as having the sense wire hook up to the front dist block where the output leads to as well.

I have the 2" pulley, and I am about to go slightly smaller to keep voltage perfect at idle. I have to keep my idle up a bit right now for it to be perfect. Cruise and wot voltage is great.

 

[MrKelly]

That's whats up, What do you think the pulley size should be? my idle is around 900, because of the cams I can't get it any lower. I don't want to over spin the alternator, redline is set a little less than 8k (evo 3 7-bolt) and the motor on the stand (6-bolt w/ forged internals)that probably will go in this car has a rediculous head, we're thinking it will spin to 9k nicely. I know that alot of guys had trouble up top because of the mitsu ark2 voltage drop. jay at jay racing said that with the standard pulley the saturn will spin up to 10k.

 

[MrKelly]

I just got the relocation kit, looks good. I just wanted to put the part numbers for the gates racing belts that fit our saturn relocation kit up, this is the first time jay had to order them so they're not on the site yet. I let the car sit alot more in the winter and these gates belts are made like the kevlar timing belts, they hold up better and are less temperamental to hot/cold temperature fluxuation that we get in the NE.

 

[awdwhip]

For those wanting to run a smaller pulley, to run the alternator faster and get more amps at idle. You can order a alternator from motor city reman, and ask them for a slightly smaller pulley, and they will put one on it for free.

I am sure if you ask them, they will sell you just the pulley if you already have an alternator. I recently ordered a 160 amp, and asked for a slightly smaller pulley, and they said no problem. put it on for free.

here is where you can get them. 91-97 SC/SL Series 1.9L

here is a picture of the standard size pulley, and the smaller one.

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This should make it even better at idle. I will post back when I find out.

I want to verify what pulley I have on my alt but I'm not sure where on the pulley to take the measurement. Do you take the measurement on the valley inbetween the ribs on the ribs themselves?

 

[talondsp1]

Measure on the ribs.

 

[awdwhip]

Thanks, visually comparing mine to yours I can already tell that the pulley on your alt is smaller than the one on mine. I think mine may be 2.1"

 

[MrKelly]

I just bought the MotorCity Reman 200 amp 1-wire se alternator. I asked ray when I order it for their smallest diameter pulley and this is what I got. It's got 6 grooves( only way you can get it) and it's just about 2", right between 1.9 and 2.0". I'm waiting for the 200 amp breakers to come before I can test it.

 

[talondsp1]

I bet that's the same one I have. It's right under 2".

 

[awdwhip]

Mine doesnt have six grooves, it has 5. But I think its the same as the one above just by looking at the pic.

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[MrKelly]

Mine doesnt have six grooves, it has 5. But I think its the same as the one above just by looking at the pic.

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Ray told me the smallest 4 grove they offer was 2.25", the smallest 5 grove which is what they normally send on the 160 and 200 amp saturn versions is 2.1" (2.25 5 grove for the 105 amp) and the smallest period for our style belt is the 6 grove that I bought. I mean, I'm sure there is something else we can buy, smaller alt pulley or different size drive pulley but he said you would void your lifetime warranty because you'll be spinning the alternator way too fast in the upper rpm's

I bet that's the same one I have. It's right under 2".

Mos Def, how is your voltage and amperage at idle. They told me I should see 100+ amps and 14-14.5 volts at 900 rpm, which is where my idle is set.

 

[awdwhip]

^Good info. Now I'm just wondering how much amperage I have to play with at 1k rpm.

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[MrKelly]

As soon as the breaker comes I'll run it from idle up to 6k and take a screen shot of the aem voltage map, with and without accessories. We can see if we're in the same ball park.

 

[____Kurt____]

I just ordered the Saturn alt from motor man repo ( the link posted) 160amp. Just to confirm, I do not need the Mitsubishi excitor correct? I ordered mine without it.
Plus all I need now is the fm pigtail from Autozone correct? Thanks

 

[DECODER22]

the self exciting regulator makes things so much easier either way works good i run 105amp with the stock pulley and self exciting regulator i sit around 13.6-14.5v depending on the situation the main thing i noticed is upgrade the main power wire to a good 4ga that is 100% copper with the stock wiring i was only seeing 12.9-13.4v also make sure you have good grounds a lot of 4ga wire is recycled metal mixed with copper

 

[MrKelly]

I just ordered the Saturn alt from motor man repo ( the link posted) 160amp. Just to confirm, I do not need the Mitsubishi excitor correct? I ordered mine without it.
Plus all I need now is the fm pigtail from Autozone correct? Thanks

I have one if you need it, I ordered it with my relocation and didn't use it since i bought the single wire alternator

 

[____Kurt____]

the self exciting regulator makes things so much easier either way works good i run 105amp with the stock pulley and self exciting regulator i sit around 13.6-14.5v depending on the situation the main thing i noticed is upgrade the main power wire to a good 4ga that is 100% copper with the stock wiring i was only seeing 12.9-13.4v also make sure you have good grounds a lot of 4ga wire is recycled metal mixed with copper

Thanks for the heads up. After I posted I called them back up and had them put it on before they shipped it out.
As for the wire where would the best place to get wire be? Car audio store? Thanks

I have one if you need it, I ordered it with my relocation and didn't use it since i bought the single wire alternator

I guess I would have taken you up on the offer if I didn't get it fixed in time. Thanks any way

 

[CJUiCE]

Any clearance pictures on a 1g from the alt to the frame rail? I got my relocation kit and i ordered the alt form motor city, but i got the small/wider pulley. Now im seeing all you guys who did this have 2g's, so i hope it will fit. I guess i will see tomorrow.

 

[____Kurt____]

Any clearance pictures on a 1g from the alt to the frame rail? I got my relocation kit and i ordered the alt form motor city, but i got the small/wider pulley. Now im seeing all you guys who did this have 2g's, so i hope it will fit. I guess i will see tomorrow.

I got the relocation kit also but have yet to install it. Let me know what the outcome is because I also have the smaller/wider pulley.
Thanks

 

[92nolatist]

Hey I just got in my saturn alt 160 amp and Im wondering, can I reuse the stock alt fuse in the fuse box or should I get a higher amp fuse? Im also going to be using a bigger gauge wire for the alt so thats why I ask.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Used the same. I was thinking the same thing.

But re-wiring it with a 4ga and a seporate fuse would be better. Then you could delete the stock fuse.

 

[turboglenn]

I also used the OEM fuse, figured the system was designed with that size for a reason andinstead of sending more in than it would handle safely i would leave the stock fuse size in place, but i did run much larger car audio style cable from the alt to the battery and distribution blocks.
Still working on brackets, should have 4 of them by tuesday ready to test and double check accuracy (not being CNC there's sligh variations but they all seem to fit and work on my test bed setup)