1G I'm stumped. Clutch pedal play, reason unknown!

[johnboy1065]

Hey,

Well I have recently installed my Quartermaster twin disc.

Took it for a drive yesterday. It did ok, but seemed to slip when the max torque hit. When I installed the clutch the discs were not worn, neither was the flywheel. So, I started looking for other reasons for it to be slipping.

1. Clutch pedal assembly worn out.
To aid this I installed a clutch assembly that has been welded to where no play in the clutch is possible.

2. Clutch master cylinder rod adjustment.
I have adjusted and adjusted to no end on this thing. it either makes it to where the car will NOT go into gear, or it makes the clutch slip. Also, I did watch Jack's transmission's video on this, he said to try and put the car in 1'st with the clutch in and rev it to 7000 RPM's and if your car moves forward (which mine is) then the rod adjustment is most likely the problem. Thing is I have probably adjusted this at least 10 times
Is it possible that the valve in the system for the reservoir is stuck open or closed?

3. Clutch Slave cylinder
I really don't know how to tell if this thing is bad? I have felt inside the boot of the slave cylinder and it doesn't seem as if there is any leakage from around the rod. I am unsure if this matters or not. But I am using a 2g rod in a 1g slave cylinder?


After checking all of these things there is still at least 2-3 inches of clutch play. Does anyone know what might be the problem?

thanks,

Anyone have any ideas?

Anyone know if the slave cylinder rod length between a 1g and 2g are the same or not?

 

[kenamond]

I just read this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/366222-totally-understanding-our-clutch-system.html

Might be that it's "pumping up". If the clutch is not fully engaged, there is still pressure in the master cylinder keeping pressure on the TOB and pressure plate. This can happen if the clutch pedal assembly is mis-adjusted. If the pushrod is too long, the release valve in the master cylinder never opens, it can't release pressurized fluid back into the reservoir, and the pressure in the lines stays high enough to keep pressure on the TOB. Also, as the hydraulic fluid heats up, it just gets worse and further-disengages the clutch.

Read that link carefully, and you'll see what I'm talking about. The adjustment is both the cruise control stopper *and* the pushrod length. Stiffer clutches engage closer to the floor, apparently, so you just follow the adjustment instructions and get it as good as the adjustments will let you without pump-up problems.

Dunno if that helps.

 

[gingerbredman00]

IF you just installed it yesterday and already tried to drive the piss out of it, you might have ruined it.
there is a break in period for clutches, mine was 500 miles.
just take it easy on it for a while!