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Ignition fuse blowing...again. Starter? Help!!!

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gophishy10

10+ Year Contributor
350
7
Apr 17, 2012
Boston, Massachusetts
I'm going to be as detailed as possible in this so sorry for the long post. This problem is very confusing to me and extremely irritating. I have another thread on this from a little while ago, when I thought the problem was solved (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/452856-blowing-ignition-fuse-accessory.html) So here's the story...

About a month ago, I was doing some tuning when my car just shut off on me. I found out the 30A ignition fuse was blowing. After ripping apart the entire interior and cutting wires to just about everything that turns on with the key, I found out that one of the plugs on the clutch pedal had broke and the metal part of the plug was grounding to the spring on the clutch pedal. So I fixed that and the car started right up with a new fuse. I thought I was in the clear but then the next day, I blew the fuse again. So now I was back to trying things. I noticed that my wideband wasn't logging in Ecmlink. So I had a spare stock ECU laying around and I put that one in. The next week or so after that, I drove as much as I could to see if the fuse would blow again. It didn't blow, but every once in a while, my wideband gauge, oil pressure gauge, and radio would shut off for about a second then come right back on. At night, I would also notice my lights would momentarily dim at the same time. I since have removed the radio and it seems like it is doing it less.

However, today when I went to move my car, I started it up and let it warm up for about 5 minutes. When I went to move it, I put it in reverse and started to back up and it shut off on me. I blew the ignition fuse again. I put a new one in and turned the key to no avail. I put another one in and turned the key to acc. All my lights and gauges powered up fine. Then I turned the key to ON and the fuse blew. I put another one in, but before I turned the key, I let it roll down the driveway a little bit and straightened the wheel. Then I turned the key and it started right up. I managed to get it back up to the top of the driveway, put it in reverse to back up to the garage door, and it blew again. I disconnected the battery and checked over a bunch of things again and tried again and blew the fuse. So I straightened the wheel again and put in a new fuse. This time it started again, but blew when I went to turn the wheel. The next time, I left the key in the ON position and removed the blown fuse. When I put a new fuse in, the starter made some noise and then the fuse blew instantly.

I'm at a loss again. One stupid electrical short caused so much to go wrong. Could the starter be causing the fuse to blow? I'm not sure what else to try. Any help at this point would be great. Only problem is the car is sitting dead 2 hours away.

PLEASE HELP ME!!!


EDIT: I forgot to add that the car sometimes has a hard time starting. It will crank for about 5 seconds or so without starting. Then when I turn the key again, it starts right up.
 
I'm going to be as detailed as possible in this so sorry for the long post. This problem is very confusing to me and extremely irritating. I have another thread on this from a little while ago, when I thought the problem was solved (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/452856-blowing-ignition-fuse-accessory.html) So here's the story...

About a month ago, I was doing some tuning when my car just shut off on me. I found out the 30A ignition fuse was blowing. After ripping apart the entire interior and cutting wires to just about everything that turns on with the key, I found out that one of the plugs on the clutch pedal had broke and the metal part of the plug was grounding to the spring on the clutch pedal. So I fixed that and the car started right up with a new fuse. I thought I was in the clear but then the next day, I blew the fuse again. So now I was back to trying things. I noticed that my wideband wasn't logging in Ecmlink. So I had a spare stock ECU laying around and I put that one in. The next week or so after that, I drove as much as I could to see if the fuse would blow again. It didn't blow, but every once in a while, my wideband gauge, oil pressure gauge, and radio would shut off for about a second then come right back on. At night, I would also notice my lights would momentarily dim at the same time. I since have removed the radio and it seems like it is doing it less.

However, today when I went to move my car, I started it up and let it warm up for about 5 minutes. When I went to move it, I put it in reverse and started to back up and it shut off on me. I blew the ignition fuse again. I put a new one in and turned the key to no avail. I put another one in and turned the key to acc. All my lights and gauges powered up fine. Then I turned the key to ON and the fuse blew. I put another one in, but before I turned the key, I let it roll down the driveway a little bit and straightened the wheel. Then I turned the key and it started right up. I managed to get it back up to the top of the driveway, put it in reverse to back up to the garage door, and it blew again. I disconnected the battery and checked over a bunch of things again and tried again and blew the fuse. So I straightened the wheel again and put in a new fuse. This time it started again, but blew when I went to turn the wheel. The next time, I left the key in the ON position and removed the blown fuse. When I put a new fuse in, the starter made some noise and then the fuse blew instantly.

I'm at a loss again. One stupid electrical short caused so much to go wrong. Could the starter be causing the fuse to blow? I'm not sure what else to try. Any help at this point would be great. Only problem is the car is sitting dead 2 hours away.

PLEASE HELP ME!!!


EDIT: I forgot to add that the car sometimes has a hard time starting. It will crank for about 5 seconds or so without starting. Then when I turn the key again, it starts right up.


I hear you. I've gone through everything, so far nothing. I'll keep you posted if I find something.
My buddy from work is going to help me, he is an electrician.

But with all that, I ended up buying a new car. This just sealed the deal, but I'm going to keep the Mitsubishi.:thumb:
 
Not sure if the starter could blow the fuse if its blowing on a acessory position. Could try disconnecting starter then jump start it if its 5spd. Look at wiring diagrams and eliminate what u can. U have a short to ground somewhere, either a wire or a component.take your time.
 
Not sure if the starter could blow the fuse if its blowing on a acessory position. Could try disconnecting starter then jump start it if its 5spd. Look at wiring diagrams and eliminate what u can. U have a short to ground somewhere, either a wire or a component.take your time.

It used to blow on accessory until I swapped the ECU. This time, it was blowing on the ON position. That's what made me think the starter as a possibility.
 
The starter shouldn't blow anything in the accessory position as mentioned earlier. I would be willing to bet you have a loose ground/wire somewhere.
 
The starter shouldn't blow anything in the accessory position as mentioned earlier. I would be willing to bet you have a loose ground/wire somewhere.

AGAIN....it is not blowing on ACC, it blew in the ON position. Does anybody know what powers up in the ON position that isn't powered in the ACC position?
 
Trust me, I know how you feel. I'm in the middle of the same exact problem. My whole interior is apart. Look at a wiring diagram and study it. That's what I'm doing. If you don't have it, I just downloaded the FSM's for our cars, and it has detailed diagrams for the 97-99. The circuit diagrams for the 95-96 I have only are on the lighting. I could email it to you if you'd like. Follow the ignition circuits and start disconnecting things there. Get a meter to test for continuity to see what wires are being grounded.
 
Trust me, I know how you feel. I'm in the middle of the same exact problem. My whole interior is apart. Look at a wiring diagram and study it. That's what I'm doing. If you don't have it, I just downloaded the FSM's for our cars, and it has detailed diagrams for the 97-99. The circuit diagrams for the 95-96 I have only are on the lighting. I could email it to you if you'd like. Follow the ignition circuits and start disconnecting things there. Get a meter to test for continuity to see what wires are being grounded.
Could you email it to [email protected]

I want to make sure I have the same.
 
Trust me, I know how you feel. I'm in the middle of the same exact problem. My whole interior is apart. Look at a wiring diagram and study it. That's what I'm doing. If you don't have it, I just downloaded the FSM's for our cars, and it has detailed diagrams for the 97-99. The circuit diagrams for the 95-96 I have only are on the lighting. I could email it to you if you'd like. Follow the ignition circuits and start disconnecting things there. Get a meter to test for continuity to see what wires are being grounded.

Could you also email that to [email protected]? Thanks! I looked at a few wiring diagrams. Hopefully I can go work on it early this week.
 
Ahh wiring is a nightmare!! Put a big fuse and look for the smoke! haha joking. I kept blowing ign fuse and after a month of pure rage trying to find the problem I pulled the alternator and had it tested and failed. Under load it was undercharging and blowing the fuse. Prior to the test I tested volts at bat with car on and free revving it stayed within spec. But had it tested at kraigen it barely failed. Alternators hate heat. And will slowly fail. Maybe something to look into. Just a thought . although Seems like your dealing with a wire that's grounding if its blowing when ign is turned on.
 
Ahh wiring is a nightmare!! Put a big fuse and look for the smoke! haha joking. I kept blowing ign fuse and after a month of pure rage trying to find the problem I pulled the alternator and had it tested and failed. Under load it was undercharging and blowing the fuse. Prior to the test I tested volts at bat with car on and free revving it stayed within spec. But had it tested at kraigen it barely failed. Alternators hate heat. And will slowly fail. Maybe something to look into. Just a thought . although Seems like your dealing with a wire that's grounding if its blowing when ign is turned on.

I'll definitely have that tested. Just to rule it out if anything. Thanks for the help.
 
So tomorrow I finally get to go work on the car. Here's the plan for the day: I'm going to use this thread (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...inding-short-partial-short-battery-drain.html) as a reference and use a 12v headlight to try and find the short. I'm going to remove the starter, alternator, and coil pack and being them to autozone for testing. Then if the short is still there, I'm going to go through the wiring schematic (thank you to wannabeaboatguy) and disconnect everything connected to the fuse one at a time to find the fuse. I'll post what I find out afterwards.
 
So tomorrow I finally get to go work on the car. Here's the plan for the day: I'm going to use this thread (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...inding-short-partial-short-battery-drain.html) as a reference and use a 12v headlight to try and find the short. I'm going to remove the starter, alternator, and coil pack and being them to autozone for testing. Then if the short is still there, I'm going to go through the wiring schematic (thank you to wannabeaboatguy) and disconnect everything connected to the fuse one at a time to find the fuse. I'll post what I find out afterwards.

Proper thanks would be to 90TSI. :thumb:

So far for me, battery and alternator checked out. Need to find time for starter. Good luck.
 
The only thing that I know that feeds current on the on position is the MPI Relay, I could say that the line (starter) from the ignition switch to the relay is grounding, or the relay itself is bad, if there is a grounding wire at the starter, I don't think it will burn your fuse, but it will damage the MPI relay.

The wire before the MPI will definitely blew a fuse.
 
My good luck finally came today! And I got two surprises...1. my car no longer blows the ignition fuse. 2. I found out where my 10mm wrench went.
Turns out I dropped a 10mm wrench sometime this summer when I was working on the car. I'm not sure what it was grounding but as soon as I pulled it out, everything worked fine. It was lodged pretty good way down, under near where the starter is. So....moral of the story: don't leave tools in the engine bay when you drop them.
 
My good luck finally came today! And I got two surprises...1. my car no longer blows the ignition fuse. 2. I found out where my 10mm wrench went.
Turns out I dropped a 10mm wrench sometime this summer when I was working on the car. I'm not sure what it was grounding but as soon as I pulled it out, everything worked fine. It was lodged pretty good way down, under near where the starter is. So....moral of the story: don't leave tools in the engine bay when you drop them.

Good to hear! I pulled out my UIC piping and battery getting ready to check my starter. Unfortunately the weather is not cooperating.

I do know I'm missing a tool :idontknow:
 
Yeah weather does suck when you're trying to work on it. I came across that wrench by pure chance though. Good luck in finding your short and let me know if you need help with anything. Keep us posted for sure.
 
Update:


I tore apart everything. Checked all the wires I could,interior and in the engine bay. I did notice that my coolant temp sensor only had one wire attached to it. So I cut it, found one at the junkyard off a galant, soldered it in.

Replaced the ignition fuse and she started right up. One by one put all the fuses back in and nothing popped.

So far, she is up, we shall see.
 
Glad to hear! Funny how such a little thing can screw up so much.
 
Have you tested voltage at the starter terminals? Theres a set amount of curre your starter uses if you are pulling too many amps it most always because a voltage drop. Dc systems are very sensitive to voltage drop since its low to start. Lets say your voltage is cut in half your amperage would double in order to supply the needed current. Im a commercial electrician and in experience voltage dropp is often the reason for overcurrent protection failure.
 
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