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Spyder Idle issues on 98 Spyder GST after head job

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LA_gst

Proven Member
43
4
Oct 31, 2022
Los Angeles, California
Had a grinding noise coming from my cams lower area and suddenly stopped working. I took it to my mechanic since I'm still a noob when it comes to fixing and diagnosis problem. Mechanic suggested and I agreed to this job:

1. Valve job.
2. Timing kit with water pump.
3. Cam & crankshaft seals
4. Thermostat and gasket.
5. Coolant.
6. Spark plugs.
7. Engine oil and filter
8. Valve cover gasket

When I got it back the car doesn't idle right. The mechanic said it's the TB, that it has a leak. I found one here and found a rebuilt kit just in case the new one needed it, after installation the car was fine for a while but the began to have a ruff idle again.

Mechanic thinks it's between the used part I provided not being good because it's used or there could be something wrong with the calibration done at the machine shop.

They determined that just to cover all of our bases we should send the head back to the Machine Shop and have them re-check the calibration just to be on the safe side. If once we get the head back from the machine shop and we put the new/used throttle body back on and if we get the same problem then it confirms that it's a defective part.

Can anyone provide any insight in this issue or does this answer from my mechanic sound right?

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It's definitely not cammed.. car is fully stock.

The mechanic said that the car would idle correctly when he added carb cleaner into the intake filter, so that's how he determined that the problem might be coming from the TB.
 
Your mechanic is a clown. Did he suggest tearing the entire head off and sending it back to the machine shop to rule out the TB being bad?

I’d love to see how they tensioned the timing belt bc I can guarantee it’s wrong by the way it sounds.

Between the owners neglecting these cars maintenance or the stories we hear from people being taken advantage by mechanics will destroy them.

Do a BLT

Post a picture of the engine bay. If the BOV isn’t recirculating I’ll unwatch the thread.

-Daniel
 
Your mechanic is a clown. Did he suggest tearing the entire head off and sending it back to the machine shop to rule out the TB being bad?

I’d love to see how they tensioned the timing belt bc I can guarantee it’s wrong by the way it sounds.

Between the owners neglecting these cars maintenance or the stories we hear from people being taken advantage by mechanics will destroy them.

Do a BLT

Post a picture of the engine bay. If the BOV isn’t recirculating I’ll unwatch the thread.

-Daniel
I agree that's why I posted this thread..

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Your mechanic is a clown. Did he suggest tearing the entire head off and sending it back to the machine shop to rule out the TB being bad?

I’d love to see how they tensioned the timing belt bc I can guarantee it’s wrong by the way it sounds.

Between the owners neglecting these cars maintenance or the stories we hear from people being taken advantage by mechanics will destroy them.

Do a BLT

Post a picture of the engine bay. If the BOV isn’t recirculating I’ll unwatch the thread.

-Daniel
What is a BLT?
 
I would suspect a big vacuum or boost leak.
How would I be able to find this out
Do some searching on here. You can build your own tester for under $20 tomorrow and do it with soapy water and and air compressor.

This will show you where you have bad gaskets or o rings that need replaced anyway before troubleshooting an idle issue any further.

-Daniel
Thank u will do
 
As suggested, the idle issue may very well be coming from improper air fuel mixture. This can be caused by the wrong amount of air based on how much air the mass air sensor reads. If you are looking to feed a group of people and count the folks coming in the front door, that's fine... unless people are also coming in the back door (vacuum/boost leak), in which case you'll run out of food (run lean and have a bad idle). Silly example, but it illustrates the point.

Anyway, a boost leak test is where you pressurize the intake side after the turbo and see if any air is leaking out. You find that by spraying soapy water on all joints, the intercooler, and mating surfaces; if you see bubbles then you have a boost leak - or a vacuum leak when not under pressure. Air is getting in through the back door.

It is possible, but doubtful, that the problem is with the head itself. Done properly on a stock car (proper tension on the timing belt and cams set right, gaskets properly torqued, new head bolts torqued in the proper sequence, etc.) the car should idle and run fine. A leakdown test should identify any head issues not related to timing or fuel... but I wouldn't go there just yet.
 
As suggested, the idle issue may very well be coming from improper air fuel mixture. This can be caused by the wrong amount of air based on how much air the mass air sensor reads. If you are looking to feed a group of people and count the folks coming in the front door, that's fine... unless people are also coming in the back door (vacuum/boost leak), in which case you'll run out of food (run lean and have a bad idle). Silly example, but it illustrates the point.

Anyway, a boost leak test is where you pressurize the intake side after the turbo and see if any air is leaking out. You find that by spraying soapy water on all joints, the intercooler, and mating surfaces; if you see bubbles then you have a boost leak - or a vacuum leak when not under pressure. Air is getting in through the back door.

It is possible, but doubtful, that the problem is with the head itself. Done properly on a stock car (proper tension on the timing belt and cams set right, gaskets properly torqued, new head bolts torqued in the proper sequence, etc.) the car should idle and run fine. A leakdown test should identify any head issues not related to timing or fuel... but I wouldn't go there just yet.
i really appreciate this explanation, I'm going over tomorrow afternoon to look at the car n will bring it up.. I will update the thread after I test it
 
As suggested, the idle issue may very well be coming from improper air fuel mixture. This can be caused by the wrong amount of air based on how much air the mass air sensor reads. If you are looking to feed a group of people and count the folks coming in the front door, that's fine... unless people are also coming in the back door (vacuum/boost leak), in which case you'll run out of food (run lean and have a bad idle). Silly example, but it illustrates the point.

Anyway, a boost leak test is where you pressurize the intake side after the turbo and see if any air is leaking out. You find that by spraying soapy water on all joints, the intercooler, and mating surfaces; if you see bubbles then you have a boost leak - or a vacuum leak when not under pressure. Air is getting in through the back door.

It is possible, but doubtful, that the problem is with the head itself. Done properly on a stock car (proper tension on the timing belt and cams set right, gaskets properly torqued, new head bolts torqued in the proper sequence, etc.) the car should idle and run fine. A leakdown test should identify any head issues not related to timing or fuel... but I wouldn't go there just ye
 
I just got the car back n it was the timing.. the cars idle is back to normal.

Thanks all for all your feedback and help
 
Will do.. excited to get my car back.. it going for paint in the next month.. my high school dream car coming to life little by little
 
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