Idle issues after delete of boost controller. Help

[Simpfe]

Okay so basically I bought a blown up 98 eclipse gst from an auction. I fully rebuilt the engine. After looking and the damage done to the engine I came to the conclusion that the guy was running way too much boost and leaned out the #2 cylinder causing the piston to self destruct. I installed a boost gauge and was driving the car around for the hard break in and I would barely hit 4k rpm and the boost gauge was reading 20psi. I know If I floored it, it would spike the gauge over 35 psi easy.

Now the hunt was on for the boost controller. This is the part that confused me because it didnt seem like it was set up right. There was an electronic AEM Boost controller solenoid zip tied right next to the STOCK turbo wastgate solenoid. Now the TOP nipple on the STOCK wastegate solenoid had a little thing on it to block it off. The BOTTOM nipple on the STOCK wastegate solenoid was running a vacuum hose to the Actuator nipple on the wastegate and another hose running from one of the AEM nipples to the turbo compressor housing nipple. And then finally the vacuum hose that runs from the intake mani to the top of my Greddy type rs BOV nipple had a t connector in the middle of that vacuum hose with another vacuum hose running down to the other nipple on the AEM boost controller solenoid. Now the car has been running perfect set up like this for about a week and I just kept the car below half throttle so I didnt run past 13lbs of boost. My check engine light came on and it was for the EGR valve. I took the battery out and found a vacuum hose was off the EGR valve. I put the hose back on and also decided to delete the AEM boost controller setup completely because the guy had taken out the unit to control the AEM solenoid and adjust the boost.

This is what I did. First I removed the vacuum hose running between the BOTTOM nipple on the STOCK turbo wastegate solenoid and the nipple on the wastegate. Then removed the vacuum hose running from one of the nipples on the AEM solenoid to the tubo compressor housing nipple. Then finally removed the vacuum hose running down to the other nipple on the AEM solenoid which was spliced into the vacuum hose running from the BOV nipple to the intake manifold and ran a new vacuum hose from the top of the Greddy BOV to the Intake mani. Finally to make the car run maybe 1-4psi over stock boost I ran a small vacuum hose from the wastegate straight to the turbo compressor housing. Basically just bypassing the STOCK wastegate solenoid. Now when I went to start the car, it idles rough and when I push the clutch in after getting the car rolling the rpms drop so low the car dies. Any help or ideas? Sorry for the essay but had to put all the details and explain everything the best I could.

I also thought well since I just hooked the vacuum hose back onto the egr valve maybe the egr valve was toast and causing the problem so I pulled the hose back off the egr valve and put a screw in the hose and started the car back up and same problems..

 

[ayyyalexxx]

So all of this is on the stock T-25 turbo correct?

 

[Simpfe]

So all of this is on the stock T-25 turbo correct?

I'm 90% sure its the Stock T-25. Its Garrett and it looks like the stock size.

 

[eclipsyco]

So to understand! You removed the "T" from the BOV and run a straight line form the BOV to the IM right?
And also you run a straight line from the compressor to the wastegate right?
Are you one stock MAF and snorkel? If you are make sure the nipple/hole on the snorkel(rubber intake)
is plugged!
Also hitting over 20psi on a t25 sounds unrealistic where's the boost gauge tapped?
You could follow this to make sure all vacuum lines are where the should be also do BLT
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

 

[Simpfe]

So to understand! You removed the "T" from the BOV and run a straight line form the BOV to the IM right?
And also you run a straight line from the compressor to the wastegate right?
Are you one stock MAF and snorkel? If you are make sure the nipple/hole on the snorkel(rubber intake)
is plugged!
Also hitting over 20psi on a t25 sounds unrealistic where's the boost gauge tapped?
You could follow this to make sure all vacuum lines are where the should be also do BLT
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

Yes, Yes, And yes I'm on the stock MAF with a Injen intake and the nipple on the intake facing away from the car is plugged. The car was idling fine before I took the vacuum hoses off and put my own. I really dont understand why the guy had a T in the vacuum hose running from the BOV to the intake mani with a vacuum hose going down to the other nipple on the AEM boost controller solenoid and why he had a hose running off that bottom nipple of the stock wastegate solenoid and the other off the AEM solenoid. There should be no hoses connected to the stock solenoid at all when you put a electronic boost controller, they should all run through the aftermarket solenoid I thought. Doesnt make any sense. My boost gauge is tapped where it should be. I pretty sure you can run 20+ psi on a T-25 or any turbo really, but that doesnt mean it will handle it for very long.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Anything over 18psi on a t25, expect it to die shortly after a few pulls ! And your right when running a aftermarket electronic boost controller no vac lines need to go to the stock solenoid, they only need to run between the wastgate and boost source! Sounds like you have a vac hose off somewhere or maybe a boost leak.

 

[ayyyalexxx]

Alright so if you already decided to delete the aem boost controller, I would just just buy a manual boost controller and reroute everything to that. In the meantime I would suggest you run a vacuum line from the wastegate nipple to the nipple on the turbo outlet. This will allow you run wastegate pressure, because like everyone else mentioned, you're going to kill that turbo real fast running 20 psi all day. Or if you still have the stock boost controller solenoid connected, just run the vacuum lines how they came from the factory. Let me know if you need a diagram.

 

[dakang]

I also thought well since I just hooked the vacuum hose back onto the egr valve maybe the egr valve was toast and causing the problem so I pulled the hose back off the egr valve and put a screw in the hose and started the car back up and same problems..

not sure if i got that right... but is the EGR valve just open with the vacuum hose that goes to it plugged?