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IC's...Air/Air or Air/Water? [Merged 7-7] intercooler liquid

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Bigger the water reservoir, the longer it's going to take to heat it up and therefore it will cool better/longer.
 
If your serious about going Liquid/air, I'd give Bell Intercoolers a call: www.bellintercoolers.com The name alone should let you know they are a serious company (Co-owned by Corky Bell). I ordered my core though them and not only was it reasonablly price but they had a size for pretty much any application.

Ill post some pictures of my setup when its completed, good luck :thumb:
 
I'm using PWR 6x8 unit, it's good for 920 cfm. I have water pump from an RV and about 10"x 8" heat exchager with electric fan on the front. Whole system with all new parts cost less than 800$.
Cooler stay's quite cool even in daily use. After highway driving for 30 miles, I can easily hold my hand on the cooler, but valve cover is burnin HOT! So mine doesn't get heat soaked very much. Someday I'll add a tank so I can put some ice to the tank for drag use.

http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm
 
Can you log either, air temperature post intercooler during normal driving or water temperature entering (better) or leaving the intercooler? I'd like to see those.
 
krnbk2:I have look into corky bell website seem it still under construction.... maybe a picture will give me some idea what are they look like

zalama1:pWR is the cheapest kit that i have run thru but there is not enough space.. the lenght of the intercooler is around 17" (6x8) my engine bay is the same as EVO 3 size... look at my avatar

autronicDSM: The car is for drag use only and we only install one air temp. sensor located just before the TB. The temp that i posted before is around 10-5 degree calcius below ambient. The owner never bother to log any of his run, what i can remember the AIT before any run is around 10 degree calcius.
 
opss... are you looking for a log from zalama1? What about the AIT before boost and during full boost as compare to ambient temp. That would be a good comparison with other brand of intercooler.
 
Did anyone have the dimension and picture of PT500, PT700 and PT900 form PTE?
I have try search around but there is no information about the dimension and is it true they are using garrett core?
 
Here's a link with some pics of my new Bell core setup (2nd one down) and Tort's Precision setup (6th from bottom). My core is 6x6x8. I was running a GMC Syclone IC previously and it worked slightly better than a Dejon Super SMIC, but not as well as W/A should.

http://www.jmfabrications.com/turboint.html

Tort's setup is the same size as the Spearco 2-230 and has proven to work extremely well on the street and the track. On a 90+ degree day, we put water in from the hose which read about 75F. After driving around doing some pulls, the charge temps were around 90-95F. It took about 5-6 hard pulls before the water got up to ambient, eventually reaching 95F and staying there. With 95 deg. water, the charge temps hold around 105F - at least as good as a large air/air. With a bag of ice dumped into the tank, water temps dropped to like 45F and charge temps were about 63F! Obviously, this is good for one pull only, but the car pulls insanely harder with the denser air charge. (be sure to monitor your AFRs as they will go lean!)

We're using an Autometer water temp gauge in the water tank to monitor water temps and a Nordskog air temp gauge installed in the IC outlet tank for charge temps. We use a 5 gallon fuel cell for the water and a Honda Goldwing radiator that was $30 on ebay for the heat exchanger. If done correctly, it shouldn't cost much more than a race A/A, it'll work as effectively on the street, won't block your radiator, and the gains with ice at the track are phenominal.
 
Looking for thoughts and opinions. I'm still waiting on the 90 degree coupling.

Basic set up is as follows:

Stock 1st gen. intercooler
Ford lighting water pump
1.5 gallon resivour
Honda Shadow radiator
3/4 inch lines

I would like to put a water temp. probe in the system, but I'm not sure where the best placement would be.
 

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JamiesTSI said:
Looking for thoughts and opinions. I'm still waiting on the 90 degree coupling.

Basic set up is as follows:

Stock 1st gen. intercooler
Ford lighting water pump
1.5 gallon resivour
Honda Shadow radiator
3/4 inch lines

I would like to put a water temp. probe in the system, but I'm not sure where the best placement would be.

Looks good, invest some money into an ice maker for your resivour. Have you driven your car with that turbo? the only reason I ask is because I blew out a 60-1 with your same oil line setup off the head, did not flow enough for a big CHRA.
 
If you don't think that a stock SMIC could flow enough CFM, you could always stack two together and weld. Or you could use a Supra SMIC. Those are damn cheap.
 
So far no problems.:thumb:
I actually went with the next size up banjo fitting, felt it would flow more oil.
 
I've been thinking about the same thing,with the stock sidemount.Just like the one idea on here,making a tank in front of and back of the ic,normally where air would pass,then plumb water lines to it.How much horsepower you guys think it could handle,like 400 or so?Beats getting a fmic and plumbing all those lines,not to mention hacking up parts.Plus if I left the ic where it is now,it could be a sleeper without a big fmic sticking out the front.
 
Im just about done with my Water/Air intercooler setup and will let you guys know how it performs. will hopefully have the car up and running in the next few weeks, so ill be able to post some logs of my intake temps while street driving.

Setup consists of:
-Bell Intercoolers 1275cfm high density core w/ Custom Entanks and Piping made by JM Fabrications
-5gal Aluminum fuel cell for use as resivoir
-Meizere 20gpm electric waterpump
-5/8 (10an) feed and return lines
-OEM Ford Cobra heat exchanger

Water Resivior (perfect for a 10lb bag of ice) and water pump:
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Intercooler with custom endtanks and piping:

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It seems like it would've been easier to just clock the turbo to have an up-shooting compressor outlet like a 16g. Then you could just have a 90* turn and like 3" of straight piping.

But it looks great.
 
brute said:
It seems like it would've been easier to just clock the turbo to have an up-shooting compressor outlet like a 16g. Then you could just have a 90* turn and like 3" of straight piping.

But it looks great.

Pete A.K.A Krnbk2 originally planed to do that but the Turbo is to big and the water pipe would be flatter then a pancake if he clocked it any further
 
brute said:
It seems like it would've been easier to just clock the turbo to have an up-shooting compressor outlet like a 16g. Then you could just have a 90* turn and like 3" of straight piping.

But it looks great.

I wish I could have clocked the turbo upward... I would have had to run a spacer behind the exhaust mani which would have messed with exhaust/dump tube placement, or not run a waterpipe. both of these options just seemed to be a little too unreasonable for me, so I opted for the "long route piping" which is still less than 1/2 of what a front mounts piping is :p


and thanks to those with the complments, ill keep everyone updated on the pogress
 
krnbk2 said:
I wish I could have clocked the turbo upward... I would have had to run a spacer behind the exhaust mani which would have messed with exhaust/dump tube placement, or not run a waterpipe. both of these options just seemed to be a little too unreasonable for me, so I opted for the "long route piping" which is still less than 1/2 of what a front mounts piping is :p


and thanks to those with the complments, ill keep everyone updated on the pogress

How often do you have to refill it with water? every run?
 
jaredgsx said:
How often do you have to refill it with water? every run?

no. The idea is that when you are running on the street you keep the tank filled with straight water. so long as the tank is closed, the system as a whole will remain closed and you will not need to refill the tank. (think of it like your engine cooling system)

when you go to the track, you can drain out about 1/2 of the water and the fill the remaining portion of the tank with ice. after a run or 2 the ice will be melted and you'll need to drain some of the water again to have more room for the ice. sounds like a pain in the ass, but the reward of subambient chargetemps are well worth it
 
DSM90AWD said:
Can you complete your vehicle profile so we can drool more :)

just updated some of it. when i have more times ill add all of the stuff i forgot and see if i can add some more pic's
 
I am seriously considering going air to water in my daily driver. Tell me what you guys think of this... A/W core, 3 gallon cell for ice water, then use the factory heater core as the heat exchanger... Driving around town wont really matter anyways since you can put the pump on a switch when you are ready for boost, and use the defrost with A/C to cool down the temps again.. Im thinking this will work what you guys think.
 
For auto-x usage, or street fun, a front mount is the best way to go, but for drag strip only, the air-to water can't be beat.
Its really up to you as to what direction the car is going, and how far you are going to take it.
 
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