I Think Its Crankwalk

[spadepro22]

Most say its over rated, most say its not the problem, crankwalk this, crankwalk that. Well I've had a little issue with my clutch pedal losing pressure every now and then. I've researched it a lot and a sign was turning left and the pedal pressure goes low. So, I found a open parking lot and just kept going in circles pushing down on the clutch and it did'nt do it everytime, but it did it enough to make me think its crankwalk I have'nt check end play yet because the motor was just rebuilt and put in less the 900 miles ago and I out of cash to go right back and pull the tranny. Flame away!

 

[Bud92gsx]

I seen a thread yesterday that Justin reccomended replacing the thrust bearing..Because someone thought CW.

 

[spadepro22]

I seen a thread yesterday that Justin reccomended replacing the thrust bearing..Because someone thought CW.

Motor was just rebuilt less than 1000 miles ago. Over 12 grand invested in this car, I think I'm done.

 

[donniekak]

If you think you have thrust issues, check the end play.

 

[spadepro22]

If you think you have thrust issues, check the end play.

I'd have to pull tranny, and then if it is, I'd have to pull motor. I can't see pulling the motor when I just payed to have it all put back in. I know your just helping, but I don't know if I want to invest anymore money in the hole DSM seen.

 

[isantop]

Are you seeing any other symptoms of crankwalk? It would be pretty silly to jump off of a great car because of a hunch.

Do you hear a ticking noise with the clutch pedal down that goes away when you release it?

Really, checking for play is the only way to confirm it's CW or not, and it would suck to give up a great car for what turns out to be nothing.

 

[JusMX141]

Why are you convinced you need to pull the transmission to check end play?

 

[spadepro22]

Why are you convinced you need to pull the transmission to check end play?

This link here says to flywheel cover. Unless I'm just misunderstood it which I probably did.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/97591-how-do-you-check-crankshaft-end-play.html

Are you seeing any other symptoms of crankwalk? It would be pretty silly to jump off of a great car because of a hunch.

Do you hear a ticking noise with the clutch pedal down that goes away when you release it?

Really, checking for play is the only way to confirm it's CW or not, and it would suck to give up a great car for what turns out to be nothing.

The famous left turn symptoms I've been reading about has me convinced. The rpms will drop low and car will stall sometimes, that could be another sign or just the kelford 272s, or light flywheel. Heck I don't know, I'm just discussed at this point. No ticking noise tho.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

The correct and most accurate way to do this is with a dial indicator. Put the car on a lift, remove the flywheel cover, attach the dial indicator to the engine or transmission, place the plunger of the indicator against the flywheel, gently push the crank toward the transmisson with a prybar, zero the indicator, push the crank back the other way, take your reading.

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Sorry about the long sentence.

Ps. Why are we suddenly all answering a five year old question?

Its just the cover. no need to take the transmission down.

 

[Cdc1221]

Can do the same thing on the crank pulley, or a little more work, pull the oil pan. Dont believe everything you read.

 

[spadepro22]

Ok, I'm going to have to find another dsm shop to take my car to and the next closet one is 2 1/2hrs away. Another thing that sucks, but the guy that worked on my car quit and the other guys just don't seem to care about quailty work.

 

[Cdc1221]

Dude at the very least, get a screwdriver or small prybar and GENTLY push against the crankpulley. If there is a significant amount of endplay, this should show it.

 

[spadepro22]

Dude at the very least, get a screwdriver or small prybar and GENTLY push against the crankpulley. If there is a significant amount of endplay, this should show it.

Push or pull? I always go to the shop because it would probably be worse when I finish then when I started. Always does .

 

[Cdc1221]

Like put the tip against the block, behind the pulley, and attempt to push the crank out

 

[spadepro22]

Like put the tip against the block, behind the pulley, and attempt to push the crank out

Ok, I'll give that a whirl tomorrow or Sat. To make sure I do this right, I put the crowbar behind the crank pulley and push in on the crowbar(forcing the cranpulley out)?

 

[Cdc1221]

Correct. Just not enough to crack stuff . Dont force it. If theres endplay it should move easily enough

 

[donniekak]

Grab the crank pulley with both hands. Try to push and pull it in, and out. If you can, it's crankwalked. If not, it doesn't prove it's in spec, but rules out thrust failure as your current culprit.

 

[Cdc1221]

Or this ^

 

[donniekak]

On another note.

Dsm's are to the age, and price, that people who cannot build them should not pay a shop to do so. The amount of money it takes to build a car, doing none of the labor, could buy a much newer, less problematic car. A 20 year old, modded, awd, turbo car isn't something a shop builds, and it doesn't need messed with for years. A true turn key, no issue car would cost as much as a new car, at least. The problem is there is always a couple areas not addressed on builds. I've seen people blow $5,000 builds, because they drew the line at all new radiator hoses. The point is, on a Dsm, everything needs replaced.

It's probably your slave cylinder, or master.

 

[spadepro22]

On another note.

Dsm's are to the age, and price, that people who cannot build them should not pay a shop to do so. The amount of money it takes to build a car, doing none of the labor, could buy a much newer, less problematic car. A 20 year old, modded, awd, turbo car isn't something a shop builds, and it doesn't need messed with for years. A true turn key, no issue car would cost as much as a new car, at least. The problem is there is always a couple areas not addressed on builds. I've seen people blow $5,000 builds, because they drew the line at all new radiator hoses. The point is, on a Dsm, everything needs replaced.

It's probably your slave cylinder, or master.

Motor was built by what seems to be a reputable shop from this site, tranny built by Jacks and the master and slave are both new OEM(well 800 miles now). Everything has been replaced on this car with quailty parts. The shop that I went to just installed the motor and install new parts when I put them on.

 

[boostingsx98]

Sometimes slave cylinders can be defective when bought new. You also may have a leak in master/slave units or lines. Also check if your clutch pedal push rod is adjusted properly, I believe Jack's transmissions has a video on it. First start with the most common or cheapest parts to replace and move on to the next if the problem still exists.

 

[Riceburning101]

my first 7 bolt build walked on me in 1200 miles from build. Everything was triple checked and within spec before dropping in. My first problem was the clutch pedal. was at a light try to go into first and it wont go. pump the pedal finally goes. try to go into second and the engagement point is different. Probably 200 miles later i got the ticking noise with the clutched pressed in. Another way to tell is with a right hand turn with high lateral Gs to cause the crank to move over to the timing belt side with cause the crank trigger in a 2g to hit the crank sensor and it felt like fuel cut car just fell on its face. idk if the 1gs can do the same thing since i dont have one.

 

[spadepro22]

Grab the crank pulley with both hands. Try to push and pull it in, and out. If you can, it's crankwalked. If not, it doesn't prove it's in spec, but rules out thrust failure as your current culprit.

Well I took of the tire and tried to pull and push on the crank pulley with my hands and it did'nt move at all. Don't know if I put enough force on it with just my hands, but it did'nt move.

 

[Novec64]

These kind of threads are how thrust bearing failure gets blown out of proportion. Why not check for end play before starting the thread?

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Just as an alternate possible solution that gets a little away from the end play discussion: My pedal would lose pressure after a hard left turn. I didn't have any other symptoms of crankwalk so we re bled the clutch lines and the problem improved. I figure there was just air in the lines somewhere and the turning would cause loss of fluid to the clutch temporarily.

There are some true cases of crankwalk out there and that does suck when it happens. But a lot of the symptoms can be caused by something else that is fixable.

But if you have recently replaced any components of your clutch system I would say it is worth a shot to re bleed it and see if your problem goes away.