2G I have crankwalk

[TiniacosMotorsports]

Okay guys my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST 7-bolt 4g63 crank has walked. Since I am pulling the motor out and fixing it and getting the block machined what should I go ahead and replace and add to the motor and car?

I know I'm replacing my clutch while motor is out and doing this whole process. What is the easiest way to get the motor out?

Thanks in Advance

 

[BogusSVO]

How did you confirm "crank walk"?

What is your measured crank endplay?

You stand better than even odd that the crank is junked due to damage on the thrust face.

Best thing is to get the engine out and apart, and go from there.

 

[TiniacosMotorsports]

dropped oil pan used a pry bar to move crank and it sure did move. But you cant move it by hand easly. you can see on the housing where it has been hitting. I'm pulling the engine today and disassembling it .

 

[BogusSVO]

Leave the short block together and swing it past the shop and Ill measure crank end play for you.

 

[TiniacosMotorsports]

Vid

 

[Boostin_Eagle]

Okay guys my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst 7-bolt 4g63 crank has walked. Since I am pulling the motor out and fixing it and getting the block machined what should I go ahead and replace and add to the motor and car. I know I'm replacing my clutch while motor is out and doing this whole process. What is the easiest way to getthe motor out?
Thanks in Advance

Strongly suggest reading this before rebuilding the block. I don't know if you have plans to go forged or not but if not read this. This guy is intelligent in what he does with dsms. Hope this helps: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/crank-walk

 

[HeadsUp Panda]

My advice would be to go forged if the motor is coming out and the short block is being disassembled. It's kind of a no brainer if you ask me. Even if you don't have the money to go crazy and put those new forged internals to work immediately, atleast you've got your foundation already. If you plan on keeping this car you will thank yourself later on for not wasting your time with a stock rebuild. You WILL get tired of your stock block limitations at some point. I'm not in the same boat as you, but my motor had to come out and I'm doing it the right way the first time and not just the fast way to be able to drive again. It's just a "while you're in there" thing to me.

 

[GST with PSI]

Jesus, you guys must be made of money. Forged motor?

If the OP never plans to push the car there's no reason to ever build a forged motor. And, even if he does want to push the car, there are plenty of guys here making north of 400whp on stock blocks. Should he pick up a DSM86 to replace his T25 with too, in case he ever intends to hit 800hp?

C'mon guys, I think we're getting ahead of ourselves here. Doing it the right way the first time means building a motor that meets your goals. Unless you currently have the time and money to overbuild for a rainy day...don't.

...Or actually, do. I love getting awesome deals on parts from the guys throwing in the towel selling all their $hit because real life comes full circle for whatever reason. 90% of the time that happens because they were building toward hopes and dreams, instead of personal ascertainable goals.




So OP, what are your goals for the car (short and long term)? Identify your goals, and then post them here. THEN people can give you advice that makes sense for your situation. I'd also highly recommend you PM Dale, (BogusSVO) and see how he can be of assistance. He's well known in the community for his outstanding work, and his machine shop is local to you.

 

[HeadsUp Panda]

I understand people have budgets and families and can't go all out at once. But if you truly like DSM's and you actually have long term goals for the car you're eventually gonna want more and more.

I'm just assuming that this isn't his daily driver bc he didn't say so. Budgeting and taking your time to go ahead and put forged in is never a bad idea if you have long term goals.

I'm not trying to argue with one of Jesus' wisemen here. He asked for opinions without stating his personal goals or budget. So my advice here is not invalid. Had he said "I have $2 to fix my car" and I come in giving him a $1000000 build list then it would be invalid.

 

[GST with PSI]

Jesus' wisemen

I wasn't trying to knock your advice and I'm not saying it's invalid; it's good advice if your goals warrant such a build. That being said, I truly like DSM's and I also have long term goals, but even after a decade of wrenching on 4Gs I still don't have a forged motor. That's because my goals have yet to require it.

For the average Joe like myself, time and money are limited, which means it all has to count. The only way to make it count is to be realistic with yourself, and identify goals within your means.

My point was not everyone has the means to build a forged motor for just in case, nor the need to do so.

 

[HeadsUp Panda]

I wasn't trying to knock your advice and I'm not saying it's invalid; it's good advice if your goals warrant such a build.

Gotcha! I thought I was reading some blaspheme that going forged was bad advice to be giving

 

[sphillips]

Okay guys my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst 7-bolt 4g63 crank has walked. Since I am pulling the motor out and fixing it and getting the block machined what should I go ahead and replace and add to the motor and car. I know I'm replacing my clutch while motor is out and doing this whole process. What is the easiest way to getthe motor out?
Thanks in Advance

This very old thread but how did you confirm crankwalk and were you able to fix it?
Thanks

 

[curt-s]

I doubt you're getting an answer.

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You confirm it by measuring endplay.

 

[reched]

I doubt you're getting an answer.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You confirm it by measuring endplay.

Can you messure this by removing oil pan and pry it? And in that case what should the max end play be?