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I really cant decide which turbo

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ian_maham

15+ Year Contributor
293
1
Dec 3, 2007
O'Fallon, Illinois
I actually get to the check out page and #### out when it comes to putting down the cash cause I always second guess myself. It's almost pathetic! Here are my goals, let me know what you think.

-I want around 450hp when I turn up the boost. Otherwise around 320-350hp would be more than enough for daily driving.

-Maybe one day actually start racing auto-cross.

-Want full boost around 2800-3000rpm

I cant decide between Evo316g, PTE 50 trim, 20g, Holset HX35 or 40.
I plan on having 100cc injectors, dsmlink, fmic, and all of the other corresponding parts.

My mind is numb from reading...

Thanks
Ian
 
Evo III will never reach 450, the PTE turbo will blow if you crank up the boost more than 25psi, the 20G won't give you much more airflow than the 16G unless you're using a TD06 or 06H turbine which will add too much lag for an auto-x car, and the HX40 is in the realm of a GT35R so it's out.

That leaves the HX35.


I'd find yourself a nice 8-blade HX35, and put it in a DSM bolt-on housing. This setup may not reach 450 to the wheels, but you should definitely reach 50lb/min with enough boost and supporting mods which is more than any of the turbos listed above with the exception of the HX40. Wastegate configuration is up to you.
 
Well your spool requirement rules out the 20g & HX 40.

Your 450 HP requirement rules out the Evo 16g (for most people)

I don't know about the 50 trim.

From what I understand, you get 20+ psi on an 8 blade HX35 at about 3500 rpms. I would go for that out of all the ones you have listed. I have run a 16g & 18g. I have a 7 blade HX-35 ready to bolt-on over the winter.

I just got tired of dicking around with loosing boost in the higher rpm with the little turbos. My 18g hits 28psi at 3800-4000. My Evo16g hit 25 psi at 3400. The HX-35 should be right there with them and get me about 100-150whp more! :D

Edit: Justin beat me to it. I bought my HX-35 from him BTW.
 
I am running a td06 20g right now, and it spools pretty quick, definitely not as slow as i thought. I am going to get the car dynoed this saturday, so i will put up a graph afterwards. I would say it hits full boost around 3500 rpm. But in order to get 450 on this turbo, you would have to run some sort of race gas.
 
Evo III will never reach 450, the PTE turbo will blow if you crank up the boost more than 25psi, the 20G won't give you much more airflow than the 16G unless you're using a TD06 or 06H turbine which will add too much lag for an auto-x car, and the HX40 is in the realm of a GT35R so it's out.

That leaves the HX35.


I'd find yourself a nice 8-blade HX35, and put it in a DSM bolt-on housing. This setup may not reach 450 to the wheels, but you should definitely reach 50lb/min with enough boost and supporting mods which is more than any of the turbos listed above with the exception of the HX40. Wastegate configuration is up to you.

Well your spool requirement rules out the 20g & HX 40.

Your 450 HP requirement rules out the Evo 16g (for most people)

I don't know about the 50 trim.

From what I understand, you get 20+ psi on an 8 blade HX35 at about 3500 rpms. I would go for that out of all the ones you have listed. I have run a 16g & 18g. I have a 7 blade HX-35 ready to bolt-on over the winter.

I just got tired of dicking around with loosing boost in the higher rpm with the little turbos. My 18g hits 28psi at 3800-4000. My Evo16g hit 25 psi at 3400. The HX-35 should be right there with them and get me about 100-150whp more! :D

Edit: Justin beat me to it. I bought my HX-35 from him BTW.


Huh! So I guess the HX-35 may be the one I'm leaning towards now. I just recently heard of it while searching and like what I saw. I WAS SO READY FOR THE 16G, I knew all of the mods I was going to have to buy, what was a direct bolt on, porting, and so on. Now it's back to the drawing board for me since I'm looking into the HX35.

If you guys know of any info as to what bolts up, new manifold, what needs to be ported, wastegate suggestions please shoot. Basically, what needs to be done to get it up and running properly let me know. It will make my new monthly search a lot easier.

Thanks,
Ian
 
If you guys know of any info as to what bolts up, new manifold, what needs to be ported, wastegate suggestions please shoot. Basically, what needs to be done to get it up and running properly let me know. It will make my new monthly search a lot easier.
Get reading, son.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/145691-holset-turbos.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/192083-holset-turbos-part-2-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/274459-holset-turbos-part-3-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/303969-holset-turbos-part-4-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/314629-holset-turbos-part-5-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/327647-holset-turbos-part-6-a.html

There are a lot of setup questions that we won't be able to answer for you that these threads will answer in detail. Pretty much every housing / manifold / wastegate setup has been used at this point.

Remember you can search within threads, so if you're looking for info about fitment with the FP Manifold, search within the thread for "FP Manifold" and you'll get your answer.
 
Here's something else you should know- NONE of the turbos you've listed above will yield a full-spool at 2800-3000. You're asking for too much. You can either have something that spools fast or flows air- pick one. Nobody's come up with a turbo for our cars that spools like a T25 and flows like a 42R.
 
Nobody's come up with a turbo for our cars that spools like a T25 and flows like a 42R.

:(

I know but thanks for all of those links, I'm gonna torture my eyes and mind for a while...

Opening all of those links my made me sick
:barf:
 
I vote an SCM5031. It will bolt on to a mitsu style housing, and flows about a 16g at 20psi. Turn the boost up to 30-31ish, and it really wakes up. I just destroyed my driveshaft and rearend with one at the dragstrip a few days ago. I ran 12.2 at 114.3 in my automatic with a stock shift map at 28psi untuned. When I tuned it to 30 is when I broke everything. I am flowing near 50lbs per minute on stock 2g camshafts and stock 7 bolt block, which is comparable to 500hp to the flywheel.

Rev this thing a little higher, and you will be flowing more air.

Details of my setup are on my website. www.atdsm.com
 
The Wh1C has the 8 blade hx35 wheel.. It cost me 150 bucks.. The way i see it.. If you blow this turbo up then you go on the dodge cummins site and look for another one.. I would rather blow up a 150 dollar turbo then a 1500 dollars turbo.. I turbo is very responsive.. Ill post some log later of a wh1c in a BEP bolt on housing on a bone stock block..
 
The PTE turbo will blow if you crank up the boost more than 25psi.

Bull $hit 2 years at 25-30psi and my Scm5031e is still pulling strong and has yet to "blow":rolleyes:
O Btw that's what my vote goes for as well ... .:thumb:
Plus it will save you reading 3000 pages of talk from holset sackriders:boring:
 
^ ^ Don't forget, your turbo has "balls". That completely blows the Garrett journal bearing reliability issues out of the water.

Plus it will save you reading 3000 pages of talk from holset sackriders:boring:

Apparently you haven't read a word of the Holset threads yet, and honestly I'm glad you haven't.
 
I know My Turbo has "Balls" ROFL
The only issues I've ever heard of from PTE 50 trims(beside from you on here) where years back, when There WEREN'T in a contract to use only Garrett CHRA's and were sourcing them sometimes from kinetic

Theirs plenty of people on here that have Non BB PTE 50 trims and have never had an issue. seems to me every thread I see where someone says something about getting one anymore you go on to say it will blow up...WTF?

I was just poking fun at the huge thread:D, relax Justin I've read quite abit of it. ...
 
what are you going to do with a 450whp Auto-X car? That'll be undriveable. For Auto-X torque and response is whats makes the gold.

People get ahead of themselve and shoot for power goals, but if you are building a Auto-X car, 450whp is pointless. How long are your straits in the courses your sanctioning body sets up? Two seasons ago we rand the RickyBobby/Shop Evo with 460whp at California Speedway during the Redline Time Attack event and we went 179mph down the strait away. Cobb Tunning's R35 Skyline GTR went high 160mph low 170mph. This is a Road Course. Now this coming season we are going for 700whp because the competition is getting into the 600+ numbers. (Beyond 450whp for a Track Car is unneeded so going for those numbers for a Auto-X is pointless.)
I say go Small 16G, run the piss out of it. Way beyond its efficiency and make a ton of torque. Auto-x, your game is 3K-5.5K rpm anyways. In order of most important to least, for winning in A-X, Seat time, Seat time, more Seat time, Tires, Suspension, Power.

Most sanctioning bodies have classes that they separate you up into, they put you into groups with cars at your level, so the more you are modified, so will you competition. If its not club racing (dont know anyone that does a DSM club race, you'll go against the likes of modified Vettes, Evo's, and charged Miatas. Its better to start in stock class with minor tweaks that techs cant see/tell (t-28s) for 2G's and 16G's for 1G's. Look stock.

Do research on the sanctioning body for the event's you plan on running in. Rules, allowed mods before you get moved up into a higher class.

Also, nothing will ever replace driver experience and technique. So, seat time. Learn to outdrive your car at its current level before you try to make a 450whp car turn.
 
Theirs plenty of people on here that have Non BB PTE 50 trims and have never had an issue. seems to me every thread I see where someone says something about getting one anymore you go on to say it will blow up...WTF?
You're forgetting that I'm the one that receives these turbos to be repaired when they blow. I view the masses- I know what will blow and what won't.

Sure I've seen plenty of turbos by ALL manufacturers blow in my day, but they all had a reason. Lack of oil, debris in oil, poor customer care, etc. The ONLY turbos I've seen fail for no reason at all- even most recently- were Garrett journal bearing turbos including those built by PTE.

Based on that evidence alone, if I were dropping $800+ on a turbo tomorrow the one I'd end up with wouldn't have anything to do with Garrett or PTE.
 
We've been over this before. The last time, You where Talking about 1 Turbo YOU rebuilt several times Now it's the Masses :rolleyes:
We'll just have to agree to Disagree and Stop HighJacking the OP's Thread...
 
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