Spyder I need help fixing an issue with my DSM

[97Spyder702]

Hello DSMTuners, I am currently experiencing issues with my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T. My car has aftermarket modifications like DSMLINK V3, AEM wideband, IAT sensor, MAP 4 bar sensor, 1000cc injectors, FPR, Hellcat 525lph fuel pump. aftermarket aluminum radiator with fans and fan shroud, 16g turbo, FP exhaust manifold, 2.5 inch exhaust catless, FMIC and also maintenance within the last 100 miles like spark plugs, coolant change, trans and oil fluid change, and some vacuum hoses. All coolant hoses have been changed. New timing belt and components. New water pump and the 2 O-rings on the coolant tube, new PVC with and extra aftermarket PVC that actually holds the air back. Gas filter, all new serpentine belts. New rack and pinion, new power steering pump. Valve cover gasket that still manages to leak but no other leaks.

My car is having a weird issue. Sometimes when its cold it'll start and then when it gets a little warm it'll start acting up and die then not turn on again for a while.

I was test driving the car and while driving it after a little while of everything being fine the car started to overheat on the freeway. The needle went up to about 3/4 220 F
and then it would drop back down to normal. After about 5 minutes the car started to have issues. The car started to cut up and would barely accelerate or nothing at all. The rpms started to shake around within the rpm as the car wouldn't accelerate then finally die and wouldn't turn on again.

I pulled over on the side and popped the hood and noticed the coolant reservoir boiling and that the fans were not kicking on at all. I left the car there for 4 hours while I went to get supplies to repair the fans. When I came back to fix the car it was gone. It was legally stolen by a tow yard. When I went to take my car out it started up with the help of a jump pack and drove fine for about 30 seconds. Just as I hit their fence to leave that property the car does it again and will not want to accelerate and die. The car did not want to start that day anymore. I had to tow it home.

So the next day I start doing compression test and at first I did the test with a flexible spark plug tube tester and I got 90PSI on cylinder one. After seeing that it was a bit disappointing and i just stopped that day. I tried again a different day just to verify. I used a different compression tester with the metal tube and got about 140 psi on all cylinders.

So then I checked spark and yes there is spark. The fuel pump is also priming and its at 43 psi. I scanned for codes with link and got a cam angle sensor code. I got a new cam angle sensor from oreily's and the code has not popped up after. I also installed new aluminum radiator and fans. After all that the car would start but would not want to stay on so I let it rest that day and came back to try again the next with a freshly charged battery and my ECMLink running to log. The car magically started again and I was able to log at idle. After about 5 minutes the car started to sputter and then quickly died. I kept cranking and cranking but it wouldn't want to stay on, you can hear it sparking and trying but it wouldn't. I checked the temp sensor readings on link to make sure it was working and it was.

I haven't gotten any code and I'm stuck with what the next move should be. I really want to repair it and I have tried to find a repair shop that specializes in Mitsubishi locally but no luck and I don't trust just anyone working on my car, too many bad experiences.

Anyone have any recommendations on what to try? $200 to who ever recommends the things that fixes it

Intake doesn't have a filter because I haven't been able to find one that fits. I order 2 different sizes and they didn't work. Still working on that.

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[steve]

How about taking a log with just the ignition on and then try to start it so we can see what ECMLink is seeing. You use the Add Photos to attach the log to your thread.

 

[97Spyder702]

Here is a file of me trying to start it today.

 

[steve]

Do you really have two MAP sensors installed?
Don't use the throttle to try and keep it running. There also seems to be something up with your crank signal. I doubt you're hitting 12500 rpm @ 31.15 seconds or 4.83 gm/s airflow while KeyStart says your cranking. Same for 9422 rpm @ 33.3 sec.

Somehow you have two MAP sensors configured and neither is producing good data which is a problem.

When was the last time it ran correctly?

 

[97Spyder702]

I just have the one on the intake manifold. i got the speed density kit OMNI 4 bar and GM IAT. Its saying im using 2?

 

[steve]

Maybe something on my end is whacked but what I see on your ECU Inputs tab is this.

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[97Spyder702]

Should only one of those slots be filled out? I dont know that much about settings on ECMLINK

 

[steve]

Yes, and I have no idea offhand how you managed to get it like that. Perhaps somebody that hasn't been on pain meds all week is thinking clearer.

 

[nice97civic]

remove the map sensor from the Baro line and leave it in the MDP line. Also is your wideband really in the front O2 spot?

 

[97Spyder702]

remove the map sensor from the Baro line and leave it in the MDP line. Also is your wideband really in the front O2 spot?

Thanks I'll do that. Yes, its going to the front of the O2 sensor.

 

[steve]

remove the map sensor from the Baro line and leave it in the MDP line. Also is your wideband really in the front O2 spot?

The ECMTuning SD cable puts the MAP sensor on the Baro input.

 

[nice97civic]

The ECMTuning SD cable puts the MAP sensor on the Baro input.

Well then mines been ass backwards for a LONG time

 

[97Spyder702]

my MAP sensor is in the place where the old MDP sensor was located. My IAT is wired into the plug that went into the MAF/Baro

 

[steve]

Well then mines been ass backwards for a LONG time

That's interesting. Here's where I got my information. https://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=52

"This cable connects the IAT sensor to the factory Intake Temp input pin and the MAP sensor to the factory Baro input pin. So when configuring the ECMLink software, those are the pins you'll need to specify and use."

And

"2G & EVO1-3 NOTE: This cable ties the pressure sensor directly to the ECU's baro input. The baro input of the 2G and EVO1-3 ECUs may not be compatible with some aftermarket pressure sensors, though. You can get more information on the 2G Baro and EVO1-3 Baro pages. Note that our 4-bar MAP sensor does work fine without any modifications at all. This note only applies to other sensors like the GM 3-bar and 3.3-bar sensors (and maybe others)."

Is this layout better?

Must be something else going on because that log opens with you having the throttle closed and 12500rpm but no injector while your key is in the start position. That make no sense. Are you pedaling the throttle during these logs because the TPS is also bouncing from closed to open repeatedly. Is anyone else seeing the same thing?

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[SixBolt_16G]

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@steve Confirming that Im seeing the same thing. Also, his Wideband goes super rich at 7.3 once started and doesnt move at all and neither does his Omnibar. Its stuck at -27.3. Is the Omni dead or not hooked up correctly?

 

[97Spyder702]

I did not buy a cable. I tapped in to the cables that the GM IAT requires to communicate to the ecu. yes i was giving it throttle like a old carburated engine to see if itll encourage it to start. I do also see the cam angle sensor jumping from ~400 to suddenly 12000 and back to ~300. I will upload a log of me just trying to start it. no throttle.

Here's pictures of where i tapped the GM IAT into the MAF connection and what wires. Ill solder and heat shrink the wires when the car is running well.
Also a picture of the MAP sensor on the MDP spot

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In ECU input's tab I changed Baro from MAP to the GM IAT. I changed MDP to Omni4bar. Here is the Log after those changes

 

[nice97civic]

Nevermind.

 

[steve]

I did not buy a cable. I tapped in to the cables that the GM IAT requires to communicate to the ecu.

In ECU input's tab I changed Baro from MAP to the GM IAT. I changed MDP to Omni4bar. Here is the Log after those changes

That help's somehow I read you were using the ECMTuning cable, must have been another thread.

Now, this time you have two IAT sensors configured and and you still are having RPM spikes.

Time to put the battery on the charger, it dropping pretty low.

 

[97Spyder702]

Putting the battery to charge on a battery charger now. I dont know if i can use the IAT in 2 different inputs on ECMLINK. I have GM IAT in the Baro input and in the Intake temp Input. Can ECMLINK do that?
I replaced the MAF with a GM IAT sensor which reads Intake Air Temperature. So I dont know which input would be correct.

 

[steve]

Perhaps I wasn't clear. Here's what I see now on your ECU Inputs tab.

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You have somehow told ECMLink that you have a GM IAT sensor on both the Baro input and one on the Intake Temp. I don't think that what you want.

When did this car last run correctly?

 

[97Spyder702]

The day before it broke down. May 17th of this year. Going to remove GM IAT from Intake temp pinout

 

[97Spyder702]

GM IAT in the Intake temp input and Factory/none in Baro.

 

[steve]

Well you fixed that but spiking data is still there. What happens if you unplug the connector on the MAP sensor? With all the problems we've seen with Omni MAP sensors "lately" I'd like to make sure that isn't part of the problem.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

This isnt a solution for the spiking but noticed that this wasnt enabled and it should be if youre on speed density.

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[97Spyder702]

I will test the omni sensor. I tested the cam angle sensor and that is good. Got a new crank sensor from autozone. Going to test the old sensor and replace if its bad.

@SixBolt_16G you're right it should be checked. I dont know why its not. Ill see if it was indeed that before doing anything else but i dont think so.

Thank you