97Spyder702
Supporting VIP
- 25
- 3
- Apr 11, 2017
-
Las vegas,
Nevada
Hello DSMTuners, I am currently experiencing issues with my 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T. My car has aftermarket modifications like DSMLINK V3, AEM wideband, IAT sensor, MAP 4 bar sensor, 1000cc injectors, FPR, Hellcat 525lph fuel pump. aftermarket aluminum radiator with fans and fan shroud, 16g turbo, FP exhaust manifold, 2.5 inch exhaust catless, FMIC and also maintenance within the last 100 miles like spark plugs, coolant change, trans and oil fluid change, and some vacuum hoses. All coolant hoses have been changed. New timing belt and components. New water pump and the 2 O-rings on the coolant tube, new PVC with and extra aftermarket PVC that actually holds the air back. Gas filter, all new serpentine belts. New rack and pinion, new power steering pump. Valve cover gasket that still manages to leak but no other leaks.
My car is having a weird issue. Sometimes when its cold it'll start and then when it gets a little warm it'll start acting up and die then not turn on again for a while.
I was test driving the car and while driving it after a little while of everything being fine the car started to overheat on the freeway. The needle went up to about 3/4 220 F
and then it would drop back down to normal. After about 5 minutes the car started to have issues. The car started to cut up and would barely accelerate or nothing at all. The rpms started to shake around within the rpm as the car wouldn't accelerate then finally die and wouldn't turn on again.
I pulled over on the side and popped the hood and noticed the coolant reservoir boiling and that the fans were not kicking on at all. I left the car there for 4 hours while I went to get supplies to repair the fans. When I came back to fix the car it was gone. It was legally stolen by a tow yard. When I went to take my car out it started up with the help of a jump pack and drove fine for about 30 seconds. Just as I hit their fence to leave that property the car does it again and will not want to accelerate and die. The car did not want to start that day anymore. I had to tow it home.
So the next day I start doing compression test and at first I did the test with a flexible spark plug tube tester and I got 90PSI on cylinder one. After seeing that it was a bit disappointing and i just stopped that day. I tried again a different day just to verify. I used a different compression tester with the metal tube and got about 140 psi on all cylinders.
So then I checked spark and yes there is spark. The fuel pump is also priming and its at 43 psi. I scanned for codes with link and got a cam angle sensor code. I got a new cam angle sensor from oreily's and the code has not popped up after. I also installed new aluminum radiator and fans. After all that the car would start but would not want to stay on so I let it rest that day and came back to try again the next with a freshly charged battery and my ECMLink running to log. The car magically started again and I was able to log at idle. After about 5 minutes the car started to sputter and then quickly died. I kept cranking and cranking but it wouldn't want to stay on, you can hear it sparking and trying but it wouldn't. I checked the temp sensor readings on link to make sure it was working and it was.
I haven't gotten any code and I'm stuck with what the next move should be. I really want to repair it and I have tried to find a repair shop that specializes in Mitsubishi locally but no luck and I don't trust just anyone working on my car, too many bad experiences.
Anyone have any recommendations on what to try? $200 to who ever recommends the things that fixes it
Intake doesn't have a filter because I haven't been able to find one that fits. I order 2 different sizes and they didn't work. Still working on that.
My car is having a weird issue. Sometimes when its cold it'll start and then when it gets a little warm it'll start acting up and die then not turn on again for a while.
I was test driving the car and while driving it after a little while of everything being fine the car started to overheat on the freeway. The needle went up to about 3/4 220 F
and then it would drop back down to normal. After about 5 minutes the car started to have issues. The car started to cut up and would barely accelerate or nothing at all. The rpms started to shake around within the rpm as the car wouldn't accelerate then finally die and wouldn't turn on again.
I pulled over on the side and popped the hood and noticed the coolant reservoir boiling and that the fans were not kicking on at all. I left the car there for 4 hours while I went to get supplies to repair the fans. When I came back to fix the car it was gone. It was legally stolen by a tow yard. When I went to take my car out it started up with the help of a jump pack and drove fine for about 30 seconds. Just as I hit their fence to leave that property the car does it again and will not want to accelerate and die. The car did not want to start that day anymore. I had to tow it home.
So the next day I start doing compression test and at first I did the test with a flexible spark plug tube tester and I got 90PSI on cylinder one. After seeing that it was a bit disappointing and i just stopped that day. I tried again a different day just to verify. I used a different compression tester with the metal tube and got about 140 psi on all cylinders.
So then I checked spark and yes there is spark. The fuel pump is also priming and its at 43 psi. I scanned for codes with link and got a cam angle sensor code. I got a new cam angle sensor from oreily's and the code has not popped up after. I also installed new aluminum radiator and fans. After all that the car would start but would not want to stay on so I let it rest that day and came back to try again the next with a freshly charged battery and my ECMLink running to log. The car magically started again and I was able to log at idle. After about 5 minutes the car started to sputter and then quickly died. I kept cranking and cranking but it wouldn't want to stay on, you can hear it sparking and trying but it wouldn't. I checked the temp sensor readings on link to make sure it was working and it was.
I haven't gotten any code and I'm stuck with what the next move should be. I really want to repair it and I have tried to find a repair shop that specializes in Mitsubishi locally but no luck and I don't trust just anyone working on my car, too many bad experiences.
Anyone have any recommendations on what to try? $200 to who ever recommends the things that fixes it
Intake doesn't have a filter because I haven't been able to find one that fits. I order 2 different sizes and they didn't work. Still working on that.
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