i have questions on How To Install ARP headstuds on a 7 Bolt (merged 1/12)

[0r1landoDSM]

my mechanic is giving me shit about the design of the ARP headstuds that i bought, he said he doesnt trust them because they're not the same design as the ones that where taken out. but i would feel safer and i would feel good to know i have good s%#t sitting under my hood.

he says that he doesnt trust them b.c when he puts the bolt in initially he cant torque it right( the bottom end) when he puts the head on he only be able to torque the upper half but the bottom wont be to spec, so now he wants me to buy OEM headstuds which i dont want to b.c i dont have another 100 bucks to spend on lesser quality stuff.& i dont want lesser quality stuff in my car and im pretty pissed about it, i think this is stupid. im not saying OEM head studs are bad but if the head is off i want to upgrade along with my brand new head

 

[99gst_racer]

How about for the head already on? Do you remove the old stud screw in the ARP stud and tighten the nut down then move on to the next just make sure to follow the pattern?

You can do it that way as long as you do one at a time and in the proper sequence. It works for most people that try it, but a few have reported issues afterwards. I wouldn't personally do it like that, but it is possible and many others do it.

 

[0r1landoDSM]

if any of you guys remember i had a mechanic tell me ARP headstuds aren't trustable head studs. him and his buddy thought i was stupid for going with ARP. so i basically fired him . b4 i fired him he started torqueing down the head of my 7 bolt to these spec's which i told him 25/50/75 and he did not finish i think the last spec he ended was at 50.. i bought a torque wrench and im not sure if he MAYBE over-torqued them and i will feel safer knowing how much i torque my head down with my own eyes. is it okay to undo the nuts and start over?

 

[TSITurbo95]

Yes it is. To be certain that he did not over-torque them, I would take them all out and measure them to see if they stretched. But when putting them back on, be sure to use the arp moly lube and torque them accordingly. 30-60-85.

 

[0r1landoDSM]

Yes it is. To be certain that he did not over-torque them, I would take them all out and measure them to see if they stretched. But when putting them back on, be sure to use the arp moly lube and torque them accordingly. 30-60-85.

99gstracer told me to go with 25/50/75

 

[TSITurbo95]

ARP torque specs specify 30-60-80, but I always do the extra 5lbs for security :/

 

[gofer]

MERGED.

 

[99gst_racer]

Yes it is. To be certain that he did not over-torque them, I would take them all out and measure them to see if they stretched. But when putting them back on, be sure to use the arp moly lube and torque them accordingly. 30-60-85.

That's a 6-bolt torque spec. 7-bolt stuff is always a bit less.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Something a lot of "old timer" mechanics dont realize is ARP's only need to be hand tight. Their strength comes from the threads. I know many Race engine builders that drop a small ballbearing into the stud holes on V8's to ensure the studs do not bottom out. Undercut head studs help make that unneeded, but none the less, you do not want to bottom the studs out in the block. That puts the clamping force going down into the block, and not pulling up toward the head. Always clean your threads by tapping the block before installing to make sure you have clean threads and nothing will bind. Then install hand tight. Maybe a 1/4 turn on top of that, but not really needed. Then put your washer in, and then set the head down on the studs.

as for mating surfaces for MHG's, you absolutely have to get the proper RA on both the head and the block to ensure the surface is good enough to seal that MLS headgasket. I have needed an RA of 10 or better for a MLS on my supra. Thats nearly a glass finish on both the head and block. If you dont want to pull your block and have it done the correct way, then dont run a MHG. Get a composite. It will save you a ton of time and energy. Anyone can half ass or afro engineer something. I prefer to build me engine the "white" way the first time and not have to go back over it later.

To the OP, GST racer has good info there, i would stick to his info, but remember not to try and TQ the studs into the block like some hill rod building a small block cause it sounds right for their head BOLTS. Those bolts stretch and is why after they become to long u toss them. Because they bottom out and no longer clamp right. Measure a new head bolt once, then measure the thickness of the head at the bolt saddle and then measure the depth of the blocks hole. Add the block and head together, then subtract the length of the bolt, thats how much extra room the OEM bolts had between the bottom of their bolt and the bottom of the blocks threaded hole. Its not by accident its there. So dont take that mechanics advice at all on that. Infact you may be able to give them a little knowledge after this thread.

 

[dsm_94_4ever]

Im installing ARP's and have a few questions do you have to apply the moly lube to the threads that go into the block or just the top?Whats the allen whole for on the top if your supossed to screw them in with your finger?

Why do people screw them in before dropping on the head I tried but the head wouln't just drop on was scared that the threads might get messed if I wiggle it around or try to force it on.Cant you put them in after the head is on like you would do with the stock head bolts?

People seem to have no trouble installing one at a time when they dont want to pull the head.