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i have questions on How To Install ARP headstuds on a 7 Bolt (merged 1/12)

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0r1landoDSM

10+ Year Contributor
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Nov 10, 2010
Long Island, New York
my mechanic is giving me shit about the design of the ARP headstuds that i bought, he said he doesnt trust them because they're not the same design as the ones that where taken out. but i would feel safer and i would feel good to know i have good s%#t sitting under my hood.

he says that he doesnt trust them b.c when he puts the bolt in initially he cant torque it right( the bottom end) when he puts the head on he only be able to torque the upper half but the bottom wont be to spec, so now he wants me to buy OEM headstuds which i dont want to b.c i dont have another 100 bucks to spend on lesser quality stuff.& i dont want lesser quality stuff in my car and im pretty pissed about it, i think this is stupid. im not saying OEM head studs are bad but if the head is off i want to upgrade along with my brand new head
 
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Arp headstuds are proven. Just make sure the botton end of the stud is screwed all the way and while you at it throw in a cooper gasket for the head. And torque the top to specs. Arp are alot higher guility than oem. I am a mechanic as well. And trust these studs to go into my vehicle. So no worries.
 
That mechanic is a moron or installing them wrong if he can't torque them right. You are making the right decision with arps but wrong decision on the mechanic.
 
When you torque the nut it stretches the bolt. The bolt being stretched is what holds the head down. Put the studs in hand tight than torque them down according to arp's specs with their moly lube. Tell your mechanic that these head studs are light years ahead of the oem bolts and have been installed in more dsm's than the total amount of cars that he has ever worked on.
 
when you torque the nut it stretches the bolt. The bolt being stretched is what holds the head down. Put the studs in hand tight than torque them down according to arp's specs with their moly lube. Tell your mechanic that these head studs are light years ahead of the oem bolts and have been installed in more dsm's than the total amount of cars that he has ever worked on.

very well said
 
sounds like he's installing them wrong

i guess he thinks you start torqueing the head studs in the block with the hex before you put the head on..idk, but if i want to get a bigger turbo or push more power i would feel safer knowing i have arp headstuds in my car. & i bought OEM headgasket from dealer along with OEM timing belt water pump and balance shaft belt & a brand new head with 3angle valve job done to it. i do some work to my car myself but i've never removed a head before nor do i wanan mess with timing thats why i made a mechanic do it
 
Older mechanics are really set in their ways some times.

Screw in hand tight into the block
install gasket
put washers into the head (some of the washers can get blocked by the valve springs if you try to put them on after)
drop the head on
lube up the threads with the arp lube and torque them to spec

Not rocket science but not as easy as tossing the head on, dropping new bolts down the holes and tightening them i guess.

Be careful he hasn't over torqued them as well.
 
Look at both the block and head surfaces in the team 2g write up.

That is wrong...

now the block should look like this....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-deck-4g63-cast-iron-block.html#post152790451

And the head like this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html


I am sure you can see the diffrence in the gasket sealing surface.


so that means i have to take the block out of my engine bay? -_-
anyway w.o removing block from engine bay? and i see the big differnce. my head is resurfaced
 
I do not know if home depot does, but anywhere that sells auto paint supplies should have them. Just make sure you get one with the stiffest back you can.
 
1) Make sure the threaded holes in the block are clean, dry, and free of any lquid and debris.
2) Hand tighten the studs in the block. They only need to be snug.
3) Set the washers in place in the head and slide the head on over the studs.
4) Lubricate the threads of the stud/washer with moly lube (or Ultra Torque) and thread all of the nuts on all the way down to the washers.
5) Torque each one in the proper sequence using the 3-step method. For regular 11mm (7-bolt) ARPs, go 25-50-75 ft/lbs. You can push it to 80 ft/lbs, but I would advise against any more than that.
 
1) Make sure the threaded holes in the block are clean, dry, and free of any lquid and debris.
2) Hand tighten the studs in the block. They only need to be snug.
3) Set the washers in place in the head and slide the head on over the studs.
4) Lubricate the threads of the stud/washer with moly lube (or Ultra Torque) and thread all of the nuts on all the way down to the washers.
5) Torque each one in the proper sequence using the 3-step method. For regular 11mm (7-bolt) ARPs, go 25-50-75 ft/lbs. You can push it to 80 ft/lbs, but I would advise against any more than that.

Thank you this is all i pretty much needed to know
 
i bought OEM headgasket from dealer

^Reading is essential my friends.

OP- Great advice from 99gst_racer, I would follow that religiously. I also personally wouldn't go through this mechanic since he seems to have limited knowledge of aftermarket parts. I honestly would suggest doing it yourself. With the amount of online resources on this site alone, you would have no questions left unanswered. And on the plus side, you'll gain gobs of info about your engine. 99% of people can't even check the timing marks on a car let alone change the belt, join the 1% who can :thumb:.
 
I never though it would be so easy LOL. How about for the head already on? Do you remove the old stud screw in the ARP stud and tighten the nut down then move on to the next just make sure to follow the pattern?
 
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