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I boost like one psi

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95tale

Proven Member
110
1
Jul 26, 2013
hamersville, Ohio
Ok I got my turbo mas, 450cc injectors, injector resistor, fixed boost leaks, wired knock sensor in and my car wont boost past 1psi its just cuts out at about 3100 rpm and just feels like it dies. Then I let off the gas. Im thinking my timing is off but I don't know
The only thing I have left to do is the fuel pump right now its the stock non turbo pump. That wouldnt cause it to only boost to 1psi would it? And I have an idle problem it idle surges and I dont know why it goes from 1000 to 1500 up and down constant. Any help
 
What makes you say it only boosts 1 psi? Is that the reading on a boost gauge?

Can you write a more detailed description of your setup, what is happening, when it happens, and what you have done so far?

Just trying to help...
 
What makes you say it only boosts 1 psi? Is that the reading on a boost gauge?

Can you write a more detailed description of your setup, what is happening, when it happens, and what you have done so far?

Just trying to help...
I have a boost gauge it reads -20 @ idle. And when I give it gas in gear it will boost like 1psi at 3100rpm then bog out kinda like when you just start a dirt bike and give it to much gas without it warming up. I dont kno if its cause I have the non turbo fuel pump in it or what but its irritating. I also have a exhaust leak where my o2 housing is
 
Check the fuel pressure if you can. It kind of sounds like the hose from the pump to the sending unit is leaking pressure into the tank, or the pump is dying. I have seen this a few times. There will be enough pressure for the car to idle, but under a load it just totally cuts out from lack of fuel. Have you checked to see if there are any stored codes in the ecu?
 
I'm :confused:

Your profile says 93 talon, your avitar is a 2g.

Now what does the stock gauge read compared to the actual boost gauge?
Do you have the gauge installed correctly?Is The gauge even mechanical or does it guess like the stock one does?

Secondly,Unless the car is an auto I'm not sure why 450 injectors is mentioned.In that case,I can almost bet it wasnt done correctly.Then the issue of why turbo fuel pump was mentioned.We cant help you unless your profile is correct,Thats why we have mod lists in the first place.Which possibly the car was a n/t 4g,in that case I know why 450s were mentioned.Which is another reason why YOU NEED TO FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!!!!!


Youll need the manual fpr for 38 psi of fuel pressure Like That nice red letter fella was just mentioning.The turbo maf will need wiring in then as well.
K
 
I'm :confused:

Your profile says 93 talon, your avitar is a 2g.

Now what does the stock gauge read compared to the actual boost gauge?
Do you have the gauge installed correctly?Is The gauge even mechanical or does it guess like the stock one does?

Secondly,Unless the car is an auto I'm not sure why 450 injectors is mentioned.In that case,I can almost bet it wasnt done correctly.Then the issue of why turbo fuel pump was mentioned.We cant help you unless your profile is correct,Thats why we have mod lists in the first place.Which possibly the car was a n/t 4g,in that case I know why 450s were mentioned.Which is another reason why YOU NEED TO FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!!!!!


Youll need the manual fpr for 38 psi of fuel pressure Like That nice red letter fella was just mentioning.The turbo maf will need wiring in then as well.
K

I did the n/t to turbo swap and I have a 93 eclipse. I have a fmic, boost gauge, 450cc cause the engine was out of a auto. And the resistor pack. I used the non turbo throttle body, the fuel rail and fpr out of a 2g eclipse turbo, turbo ecu, I have the turbo mas with k&n air filter and I have the stock non turbo fuel pump. I do have the turbo fuel pump but I cant get the sending unit out to get to my old n/t pump and I have a narrowband a/f gauge its reading lean at idle and rich when I drive it for a couple min. And I did wire in my knock sensor. ill post a video of how its idling if need be
 
what kind of condition is your cat in? could be clogged or maybe wastegate flapper stuck open?

I dont have a cat and I was boosting fine before like ten 5psi when I had a boost leak

Check the fuel pressure if you can. It kind of sounds like the hose from the pump to the sending unit is leaking pressure into the tank, or the pump is dying. I have seen this a few times. There will be enough pressure for the car to idle, but under a load it just totally cuts out from lack of fuel. Have you checked to see if there are any stored codes in the ecu?

How would I check codes on a 1g
 
Checking codes on a first generation DSM can be achieved by using a data logger. There is actually an old way to check codes by using a test light, it's like a car's version of Morris Code. The actual method escapes me at the moment and it is actually kind of annoying to do.

How much for a cheap data logger
 
Oh I can tell this is going to be fun diagnosing.
So let's verify the key points:
93 N/T with 2g MAS, 450cc injectors, T-25, some sort of turbo ECU, N/T fuel pump, N/T throttle body.

Your symptons are idle surge and no boost and a wacky AFR reading on a notoriously inaccurate narrowband.

So first order of business. Fix your exhaust leak. That should make your inaccurate narrowband less...inaccurate. It should also run better in closed loop. Second, recheck for boost leaks. Your idle surge is your IAC fantastically failing to maintain proper idle which most likely means there are leaks. Probably blew a gasket or line off after your last boost leak test. Which brings me to the next point; verify that your WG line is still attached at both ends. After those are fixed, set your base idle and timing.

Also what ECU do you have?
 
Your boost gauge should be teed the vacume line to the fpr.Your getting vacume but either only 1 psi on gauge because of gauge or bad install.Maybe the back of the gauge is just leaking but you would most likely hear a hiss from plastic line in the cabin.

This is the 1g swap bible http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...48231-installing-turbo-4g63-into-nt-4g63.html

Much easier to see whats missing with a better list.
1g Auto turbo engine,& ecu?
1g n/t intake manifold and throttle body?
450s rail and fpr all came from a turbo 2g.
The chassis and engine harness are 1g n/t so adding a 7th wire for the turbo maf is a must.Fuel pump is still stock to car.

Turbo lets just assume its also 1g auto,but not important at this point.
Idle surge.Start here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/191137-how-fix-your-idle-surge-problem.html
 
Oh I can tell this is going to be fun diagnosing.
So let's verify the key points:
93 N/T with 2g MAS, 450cc injectors, T-25, some sort of turbo ECU, N/T fuel pump, N/T throttle body.

Your symptons are idle surge and no boost and a wacky AFR reading on a notoriously inaccurate narrowband.

So first order of business. Fix your exhaust leak. That should make your inaccurate narrowband less...inaccurate. It should also run better in closed loop. Second, recheck for boost leaks. Your idle surge is your IAC fantastically failing to maintain proper idle which most likely means there are leaks. Probably blew a gasket or line off after your last boost leak test. Which brings me to the next point; verify that your WG line is still attached at both ends. After those are fixed, set your base idle and timing.

Also what ECU do you have?

I have a 13g turbo, 1g mas, and turbo ecu out of a 5 speed my car is a 5 speed 1g the engine came from a auto. And whats base idle and timing?

I posted a video in here of what my car does or you can go to youtube and type in 1g idle and rev problem

I posted a video in here of what my car does or you can go to youtube and type in 1g idle and rev problem

I posted a video in here of what my car does or you can go to youtube and type in 1g idle and rev problem
 
So the only thing thats auto is the engine,Which really the only real difference is the cams.

Your much farther ahead then I had thought.

The stock fuel pump and fpr are the only real things left in the replace list.But flowing 40 or so ccs of fuel extra, seems miniscule enough that the ecu should be able to catch back up.

At least Your getting sumwhere,and not just getting a headache.Back to the headahce tho Crimson has a point "So first order of business. Fix your exhaust leak. That should make your inaccurate narrowband less...inaccurate. It should also run better in closed loop. Second, recheck for boost leaks. Your idle surge is your IAC fantastically failing to maintain proper idle which most likely means there are leaks. Probably blew a gasket or line off after your last boost leak test. Which brings me to the next point; verify that your WG line is still attached at both ends."
 
So the only thing thats auto is the engine,Which really the only real difference is the cams.

Your much farther ahead then I had thought.

The stock fuel pump and fpr are the only real things left in the replace list.But flowing 40 or so ccs of fuel extra, seems miniscule enough that the ecu should be able to catch back up.

At least Your getting sumwhere,and not just getting a headache.Back to the headahce tho Crimson has a point "So first order of business. Fix your exhaust leak. That should make your inaccurate narrowband less...inaccurate. It should also run better in closed loop. Second, recheck for boost leaks. Your idle surge is your IAC fantastically failing to maintain proper idle which most likely means there are leaks. Probably blew a gasket or line off after your last boost leak test. Which brings me to the next point; verify that your WG line is still attached at both ends."

Well the fpr is from a 2g turbo

I fixed it it was a boost leak before the j pipe and my cas needed adjusting. I still have idle surge and high idle im boosting happy now
 
Was the ecu from an auto or manual? Not sure if there was a inj size difference betweent he 2 like the 2g's had.
 
Did you ever check fuel pressure? Also you don't need a logger to check for codes. All you need is a analog multimeter, a volt gauge, or even a test light. It is very simple to do.
 
Did you ever check fuel pressure? Also you don't need a logger to check for codes. All you need is a analog multimeter, a volt gauge, or even a test light. It is very simple to do.

I got the main problem fixed it was a boost leak before the j pipe. I dont have a CEL anymore so The only thing to do now is fix my surging idle and slight misfire but im going to change out the coil pack cause I have a brand new one laying around and plugs and gap them at .28 im sure they fowled out from it running so rich
 
I got the main problem fixed it was a boost leak before the j pipe. I dont have a CEL anymore so The only thing to do now is fix my surging idle and slight misfire but im going to change out the coil pack cause I have a brand new one laying around and plugs and gap them at .28 im sure they fowled out from it running so rich

I thought in the first post that you had already tested for boost leaks?
 
No I did one and nothing happend im boosting ten psi so I set the boost leak tester to 16 psi I took it for a drive and the pipe from my jpipe popped off
 
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