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hx-30 like a 20g?

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tode5tool

10+ Year Contributor
122
0
Jan 21, 2010
fort hood, Texas
ok I know we've all beatin this one to a messy pulp, BUT... I have a specific question about just the hx-30 not 35.. or 40.. i never plan to run those things. way way to big for my taste. well my question is im wondering if any one has run a hx-30 with a set up like mine, if so, was it a good set up. was cost to power ratio good, was this turbo like a 18g or 20g. and was it cheaper then those 2 brand new.. and finaly how was install. hears my case. i want to buy a turbo once and never again.. but i want to start out at mid 13's then work down to mid 10's with just this one turbo i bought. you following me? i don't want to buy 15 turbos and i dowt want to rebuild every 6 months. and im not the kinda guy that will run 40 lbs to get into the tens, ill build a good car to get there instead. so would a hx-30 be reliable, tough, long lasting, hold 20ish psi for its life time, and get me into the 10s eventually? in other words.. would "hx-30 love me long time?"
 
The turbo will get you into the 11s depending on weight and the tune. Its all about the tune. You would need to run more then 40 psi to hit 10s. People are running 40 psi on hx40s and are having trouble hitting tens. The turbo was built to run 20 psi all its life. Just make sure it has clean low pressure oil.
 
nice, that's the info i was looking for. like i said, im not to interested in 10s yet. but as long as i can get 20psi on this turbo for a long time and it be reliable ill be happy. as the low pressure oil, would the stock oil line location meet these needs? im not exactly sure if its low or high pressure.
 
Running from the head should be fine. If you don't have balance shafts I recommend a restrictor.
 
doesent the stock oil line run from the bottom of the engine.. or is that a return line?
 
yea thats the return line... it goes from the turbo, back to the oil pan... the stock one that goes to the head is the one im using...!!!! ALSO NOT TO STEAL YOUR THREAD BUT IM RUNNING A SS BRAIDED LINE TO THE HEAD... AND I DONT THINK I HAS A RESTRICTOR... I REMOVED MY BALANCE SHAFTS...!!! WERE CAN I GET A RESTRICTOR AND WERE SHOULD IT GO? thanks in advance..!
 
yea thats the return line... it goes from the turbo, back to the oil pan... the stock one that goes to the head is the one im using...!!!! ALSO NOT TO STEAL YOUR THREAD BUT IM RUNNING A SS BRAIDED LINE TO THE HEAD... AND I DONT THINK I HAS A RESTRICTOR... I REMOVED MY BALANCE SHAFTS...!!! WERE CAN I GET A RESTRICTOR AND WERE SHOULD IT GO? thanks in advance..!

You should make sure your actually getting enough oil flow before you install a restrictor. It is more common to run a restrictor when feeding from the ofh then head.
 
The hx30 has many compressor wheels. With many of which you most certainly will not see 11s without enough money to put a stock 14b into the same bracket. You will need to give us the compressor/turbine wheel specs.
 
IM RUNNING A SS BRAIDED LINE TO THE HEAD... AND I DONT THINK I HAS A RESTRICTOR... I REMOVED MY BALANCE SHAFTS...!!! WERE CAN I GET A RESTRICTOR AND WERE SHOULD IT GO?
Restrict the oil flow to a Holset with the head as the source and run more than 8psi of boost and the turbo MIGHT last 5 minutes...unless you are somehow getting 100psi of oil pressure at the head.
 
Better off with an evo3 16g

*reasoning*

Lower profile, proven aero on our engines for 400+ hp (and torque), bolt on out of the box, doesn't need a restrictor, DESIGNED for our engines.
*IF* fed from the head using the 1G hard-metal feed line, which has a .075" restrictor in the banjo end at the turbo.

If you're feeding an Evo III 16G from the filter housing with no restrictor, you're putting the turbo at risk of begin over-oiled.
 
*IF* fed from the head using the 1G hard-metal feed line, which has a .075" restrictor in the banjo end at the turbo.

If you're feeding an Evo III 16G from the filter housing with no restrictor, you're putting the turbo at risk of begin over-oiled.

Ran mine like that (from the OFH with no restrictor) for 30k miles as directed by FP when purchased with no ill effects.
 
Then I guess the 14B/16G/18G/20G turbos that I receive for a rebuild that have no shaft play yet are pouring oil past the turbine seal and into the exhaust were actually getting the proper oil pressure all along. I stand corrected- thanks, Andrew.
 
woot, i like the sarcasm, but ive decided to run a 16g. but on the oil feed for it, where do i run it from and what restricter do i use if any? we really haven't come to a conclusion on it.
 
Your choices are capping off the source at the filter housing and using a 1G hard metal line from the head (as the TD05H center housing prefers a low-pressure oil source) or using a braided steel line from the filter housing and installing a restrictor to keep volume and pressure under control.
 
ok do you recommend a shop or site to get these from? how are the ebay or FP kits?
 
ok I know we've all beatin this one to a messy pulp, BUT... I have a specific question about just the hx-30 not 35.. or 40.. i never plan to run those things. way way to big for my taste. well my question is im wondering if any one has run a hx-30 with a set up like mine, if so, was it a good set up. was cost to power ratio good, was this turbo like a 18g or 20g. and was it cheaper then those 2 brand new.. and finaly how was install. hears my case. i want to buy a turbo once and never again.. but i want to start out at mid 13's then work down to mid 10's with just this one turbo i bought. you following me? i don't want to buy 15 turbos and i dowt want to rebuild every 6 months. and im not the kinda guy that will run 40 lbs to get into the tens, ill build a good car to get there instead. so would a hx-30 be reliable, tough, long lasting, hold 20ish psi for its life time, and get me into the 10s eventually? in other words.. would "hx-30 love me long time?"

Wooow all this for a 16g?? :ohdamn:
 
Then I guess the 14B/16G/18G/20G turbos that I receive for a rebuild that have no shaft play yet are pouring oil past the turbine seal and into the exhaust were actually getting the proper oil pressure all along. I stand corrected- thanks, Andrew.

You're very welcome, Justin. I was just saying that FP recommended me to run it like that, I did, and no ill effects. SHOULD you run a mitsu CHRA turbo in an OEM configuration? Absolutely. I would even add one of those FP filter baskets to catch any large particles.
 
Wooow all this for a 16g?? :ohdamn:

hahahahah, i know i know.. im just trying to figure out the best route man. im never shore of what i want.. you should see me in the candy isle. :D
 
Restrict the oil flow to a Holset with the head as the source and run more than 8psi of boost and the turbo MIGHT last 5 minutes...unless you are somehow getting 100psi of oil pressure at the head.

ok im confused...!! ive been running it like this since i got the car witch came like that... and no problems...!! so in that case am i good or what should i do?
 
hahahahah, i know i know.. im just trying to figure out the best route man. im never shore of what i want.. you should see me in the candy isle. :D

Haha nice, but you kinda strayed from the original plan. You wanted to buy one turbo for life that you could eventually reach 10s with. The 16g will not be the turbo for this. Starting with it, running 12s, and then upgrading later to run 10s is a much better idea than starting with a huge laggy turbo and not using it to its potential.

Also Justin can you please tell us what size restrictor to use for the 16g when feeding the turbo from the Oil Filter Housing. I have the FP install kit and no balance shafts, but I ported the oil relief hole.
 
ok im confused...!! ive been running it like this since i got the car witch came like that... and no problems...!! so in that case am i good or what should i do?
Holsets have oiling guidelines that are outlined in their service manual and discussed in tons of random threads on this site. There are guys running Holsets from the head with great success; some will blow the turbo in the first five minutes they have it sourced to the head.

Most of the time the head does not offer much volume because the oil that reaches the head is distributed to the entire valve train, meaning there is not much left over for the turbo. On many cars the head offers enough pressure, but by restricting the flow you're cutting the volume down to the point where it may be fatal for the turbo...the thrust plate alone on a Holset will require more lubrication than a restricted head source will give you.

The higher the boost level means the higher the shaft loads. I've already had guys who were running their Holset sourced from the head at 20-25psi of boost, but as soon as the boost was cranked to 30+psi, the turbo failed instantly.

Remember that it's often NOT the head's oil pressure at wide open throttle that kills your turbo but the low RPM daily driving where the turbo is making boost but the oil pressure at the head source is only 15psi.


You're very welcome, Justin. I was just saying that FP recommended me to run it like that, I did, and no ill effects. SHOULD you run a mitsu CHRA turbo in an OEM configuration? Absolutely. I would even add one of those FP filter baskets to catch any large particles.
But keep in mind that what FP recommends isn't always the right thing for everyone- however, if they tell me to source the turbo I bought from them at the filter housing to protect the warranty then you better bet it will be sourced from the filter housing....they can give me five free ones if they feel like it.

FP developed an inline filter for the Evo turbos with a .070" restrictor built-in because the Evo's were seeing over 100psi of oil pressure at the filter housing and most likely wiping out FP turbos one after another. A DSM with over 100k on the stock bottom end, oil pump, and with the balance shafts still in place may never see that much pressure, but a built bottom end sure will.

I'm with you, though....everyone should run the stock 1G line from the head and never monkey with those aftermarket braided lines. If the OEM 1G line is good enough for Curt Brown to run 10.33 on an off-the-shelf FP Evo III 16G, it's good enough for anyone else on here.
 

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Haha nice, but you kinda strayed from the original plan. You wanted to buy one turbo for life that you could eventually reach 10s with. The 16g will not be the turbo for this. Starting with it, running 12s, and then upgrading later to run 10s is a much better idea than starting with a huge laggy turbo and not using it to its potential.

Also Justin can you please tell us what size restrictor to use for the 16g when feeding the turbo from the Oil Filter Housing. I have the FP install kit and no balance shafts, but I ported the oil relief hole.

If you are running 12's on an evo 3, you have other things to upgrade beside the turbo.
 
i got you, its just i hate spending money over and over again.. the fact is no turbo is going to last forever, they will eventually fail. you see my wife is a bit of a money nazi, LOL and i wont be able to buy turbos evry time i blow one. but i know of a lot of people running 16-20gs and seeing great numbers on the dyno and the track. so im going to go with what works. run the 1g oil line from the pump because i have a stock bottom end. and run it at 18psi and be happy. the fact is ill never be happy with my car no matter how it does.. there always be room for improvement. but low 11s to 12s will kill most everything around here. and that will put a smile on my face. mitsu turbos are prity durable and if i can get it to hold for 20k ill be happy and then ill just have to convince the wife.. its a part that fails no matter what. she dont know shit about cars anyways. thanks for all the help guys.. if we got anything from the thread its that you got one dood to finally make his mind up. and that's a huge accomplishment when it comes to me. also cleared up the oil line thing. woot woot. :thumb:
 
Also Justin can you please tell us what size restrictor to use for the 16g when feeding the turbo from the Oil Filter Housing. I have the FP install kit and no balance shafts, but I ported the oil relief hole.
I would think .075" would be optimal; this is the same size as the hole in the banjo end of the 1G feed line from the head.

Using a feed line kit with a banjo bolt at the turbo is better than the ones that do not use a banjo. The banjo fitting seems to disrupt flow just enough and sort-of acts like a restrictor over the line that fires a stream of hot oil directly into the cartridge.

If you are running 12's on an evo 3, you have other things to upgrade beside the turbo.
So true.

There seems to be a hangup around mid-to-low 12's on stock-engine 16G setups. You're at the point where you can go faster with a bigger turbo if you want to stay with the stock engine, but there's much more to be unlocked with the 16G if you're willing to put some money into building your engine a little....and the bigger turbo is not going to get you too far without cams and other upgrades like head studs and a good gasket.
 
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