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2G How to wire your gauge lights to the factory dimmer switch on a 2g.

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This article was well researched and written because I could not find any tech articles on how to install aftermarket guage lights on a 2g using the factory dimmer switch. The majority I found are 1g articles and the installation process is a bit different. This article will explain how to wire your aftermarket guage lights using the factory dimmer switch in detail with pictures on a 1998 Eclipse GST.

Assuming you have already installed your aftermarket guages (boost, air fuel ratio, exhaust temp., ect) I will go on from that step. However, this article was written installing two Autometer Ultra-Lite boost and exhaust temp. guages on a 98 GST. Certain guages may have different light set ups and may vary on how much of a charge they put. Also, I am not sure if the 2ga varies in dimmer switch location.

Just keep in mind that the more guages you tap into the dimmer switch, the dimmer all of the guages, including the factory guage lights will become because of the total load. The two Autometer guages I wired in had no noticable effect on the overall brightness.

Also, most guages do not come with the wiring needed to run from the guage to the dimmer switch so you will need to supply your own. I used regular 12 guage wire from Radioshack.

Tools needed:
- socket wrench
- small flat head screwdriver
- razor blade
- wire strippers
- wire to run from the guages to the dimmer switch
- soldering iron
- soldering material

Disconnnect the negative battery cable.

First off we need to locate the dimmer switch. On a 2g it is right below the steering wheel on the left. Above that and to the left is the cruise control, side mirror adjusters, and fog light switch cluster. This is illustrated here:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8479/dimmerswitchkh3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


In order to actually reach the dimmer switch wiring we will need to remove the dimmer switch assembly and pull the wiring up through the cruise control cluster. To reach this we must remove the lower cover under the steering wheel.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the lower plastic cover under the steering wheel in place. I left the hood latch assembly attached and just layed the cover on the floor infront of the driver's seat. Two of the bolts are hidden behind two plastic overs. Use the small screw driver to pry these off. The 4 bolts are illustrated in the next 4 pictures:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9082/2qr4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/7686/4pi3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/8581/5iy6.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/6784/6gk9.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


Once the cover is removed, look behind and above at the dimmer switch. It is being held in place by two screws. Remove them and unhook the white wire clip attached. The dimmer switch assembly with two screws as well as the white clip are illustrated in the next picture:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/9459/7ux1.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


Now carefully pry the cruise control cluster out using the small flat head screwdriver and pull the dimmer switch wiring clip up through the opening. I suggest doing it this way because the factory wiring is pretty short and it would be impossible to solder properly underneath the steering wheel. The removed cruise control cluster and wires pulled through are illustrated in the next picture:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8306/9we1.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


Now peel back the plastic covering that is over the dimmer switch wiring. You will now see 3 wires coming out of it. 1 green wire with a white stripe and silver spacers, 1 black wire with no stripe and no spacers, and 1 black wire with a yellow stripe with silver spacers. The two wires you will need to splice into are the green wire with the white stripe and the black wire with the yellow stripe. The middle black wire will not be used so tape it up to insure the wire will not be damaged during the installation. The 3 wires and their colors are illustrated in the next picture:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/5608/10ar4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


Next you will have to splice into the two outer wires of the dimmer switch. The two wires you need are the green wire with the white stripe and the black wire with the yellow stripe. Take your wire splicers and carefully make two cuts around each wire about an inch apart. Make sure you dont completely cut the wire, just make the cuts so that the wire insulation is cut into and the wire itself is just visible. Now take your razor blade and carefully cut back the wire insulation between the two one inch cuts. The two wires are spliced into in the following picture:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/7894/11az6.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


Now assuming you have already hooked the other end of your wiring up to the gauges, run the other end of the wires up under and behind the steering wheel cover and out through the cruise control cluster hole. Attach one end of each of the wiring to each of the open wires you have just spliced into.

*NOTE* Do not begin soldering yet.

I am unsure of the polarity of each of the wires you have to splice into on the dimmer switch itself. The green wire with the white stripe and the black wire with the yellow stripe. So you will need to test the polarity like I did. Wrap the wiring around the open splices and reconnect the dimmer assembly as well as the battery cable. Turn your lights on and set the dimmer switch to full brightness. If you have the wiring on the correct way, the lights on the guages will be in sync with the factory gauge cluster. When you turn the switch to dimmer, the guages should do the same. If it is not correct, swap the wires and test it out.

*EDIT*

Thanks to luv2rallye, I now know the polarity of the wires in the dimmer switch.

luv2rallye said:
As far as polarity: the green wire with the white stripe is +12V supply (goes to the +12V or positive side of gauge bulbs) and the black wire with the yellow stripe is the control wire (goes to minus side of the gauge bulbs) which the dimmer switch varies in voltage between +12V and ground.

Wire the guages accordingly.

After all that is done, disconnect the battery and remove the dimmer switch assembly to protect it. Solder each of the wires in place and carefully tape it up using electrical tape to properly insulate it and protect it. The next picture shows the two wires after being taped up and soldered into place:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/7873/14di8.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>


*NOTE* I assume you could use aligator clips or any other method to attach the wires, but I HIGHLY suggest soldering it.

After the wiring is all taped up, carefully pull it back through and into its place. Reattach the dimmer switch assembly back into place using the two bolts and then plug the white connector into the back of it.

Now reattach the 4 bolts that hold the plastic cover into place. The last step is to hide your wiring. I used good old zip ties to attach them in place to other wiring under the dashboard.

If you have any questions on this how to, private message me. I have more pictures I would have liked to use, but I am limited to only using 10, so I had to leave a few out. I also know how to do this install on a 1g so if there are any other questions on that let me know. Good luck and have fun.
 
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