How To Remove The Engine/and What To Do While Engine Is Out?!?!?

[rjdavis21]

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon TSi FWD.
- My car has started to knock and run real bad(burns and leaks oil) at 156,000 miles so I've decided to do a complete rebuild. One of my questions is to remove the engine do I have to drop the manual transmission first, or at all?

- Now my second question is, remembering that I am only 17 and on a major budget, what all should I do to the engine while its out of the car to get into the low 13's high 12's(please read my mod list and just add to it)? I was going go with the topline complete rebuild kit bored .20 over, sell the 14b and go with the evoIII 16g, evoIII manifold, and O2 sensor(all ported maybe), and a biger throttle body elbow, and hopefully later a mid-sized FMIC if needed. Does this all sound good or what should I be getting?

 

[HokieDSM]

Install a hamster wheel, purchase hamster. The car will run just fine until you get that engine fixed.

 

[Leitnin]

heres a real comment...(incidently probably the first time ive ever done this) SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH.


There are tons of threads with people saying for the most part, leave the transmission attached when you pull the engine. I know i did. I did it with my best friend in my garage. neither of us had done anything that big before (with the car).

as far as what to do while its out...theres lots you can do. If you want people to actually give you responses that are useful, you need to give enough information. budget, more specific goals, experiance. unless you tell people these things there are a million combinations of items for a particular budget.

the parts you listed sound fine (they will work) but to ask others if thats the best for you....thats something you have to read about and decide.

 

[rjdavis21]

ok thanx so ill leave the tranny in. when you pulled the engine how long did it take you to get it out? my dads a mechanic so its not that we wouldnt know what we are doing but I was just looking for an estamate on how long it will take to get it out. as for my goals I would like to have a 12 second fwd car on a budget. i dont want to spend more than 1000 dollars on turbo and supporting items.
is porting anything worth getting on the turbo, mani, and o2 housing? what is its purpose?

also while the engine is out wht sort of free** or cheap mods can I do to the motor? what does the Balance shaft eliminator do? how does it work and is it worth doing for more HP?

 

[BUCK]

.

ok thanx so ill leave the tranny in.

Errrrr - No - From everything I've ever seen on this subject you don't have enuff clearance to get the Motor out with the Tranny in place - So you end up cutting the Tranny loose ANYWAY - Best ripout description I've ever seen was a method where they pulled the axles & went DOWN with the entire Motor & Tranny ASSEMBLY & then slid it out from underneath the elevated car - Probably how it was installed at the Factory

 

[rjdavis21]

ok then for sure i should go ahead and drop the tranny first? remembering that i dont have any real lift just doing this from my home garage.... is there any reasonable way to remove the engine without tranny?

also what turbo would be best from slowboyracing? the evoIII 16g or the 2g bolt on Big 16g which comes fully ported with flapper mod?

 

[IHeartTurbo]

Pull the engine and tranny out together. Do not disconnect them. I just recently did the same thing. It's pretty simple as long as you take your time.

 

[rjdavis21]

can you pull it all up thru the engine bay? or do you go down with it all? you happen to have any pics of the process? Ihearturbo, also what do you think about my 2 turbo choices? i see you have the 16g what do u suggest?

 

[dave99gst]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
can you pull it all up thru the engine bay? or do you go down with it all? you happen to have any pics of the process? Ihearturbo, also what do you think about my 2 turbo choices? i see you have the 16g what do u suggest?

ya pull the axels out -- and pull motor + tranny togather UP out of the bay. ya can leave the exhaustmani,turbo,intake,ac on. remove p/s, alt. disconnect all connectors,hoses.

 

[rjdavis21]

ok thanx for the info im going to try to start tonite...but can someone also give me some info on the turbos i was asking about too? thanks also i have the 14b on there now so do i still need the 2g install kit for the 16g? and what all does it include? PLEASE HELP

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
ok thanx for the info im going to try to start tonite...but can someone also give me some info on the turbos i was asking about too? thanks also i have the 14b on there now so do i still need the 2g install kit for the 16g? and what all does it include? PLEASE HELP

Being on a budget, an Evo III 16G will do just fine for mid 12's. Cheap and fast, what else do you want?

No you don't need an install kit if you have a 14b on there already.

Good luck.

 

[rjdavis21]

ok awesome...so do i need a different o2 housing? and what about the stock 2g mani i have i need help on what to do with those items as well...and can someone explain the point of the balance shaft elminator?

 

[BUCK]

The point is to eliminate 2 UNBALANCED Shafts spinning at TWICE the RPM of the Crank that can destroy everything you've built.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

The balance shafts are two shafts (go figure ) that run through the bottom end of your engine. They are there just to help with the vibration for *average* drivers. As performance oriented drivers, we don't need them because they add additional rotational mass. Plus, the balance shaft belt is right in behind the timing belt. If this belt breaks, it can get caught up in the timing belt, causing your to either bend a few valves or even be so bad that you may need to buy a whole new head. It's a very good idea to remove them, which is why I'm kicking myself for not doing it while I had the chance.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

And about the turbos, I can't really help you. The 16g came on my car when I bought it so I have no idea how much of a difference it is between the 14b and the 16g. But, I'd suggest going with an EvoIII 16g. Very good bang for the buck there.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

Shit, forgot to say that I do have a couple pics of the engine removal. Hit me up an aim if you want them and I can also give you a few more tips.

 

[rjdavis21]

guys i think ive spun a bearing which is causing the knocking...if its not bad can i use the same crank? and if it is bad what are your suggestions?

 

[ArticNemesis]

Depending on how bad the damage is, you should just be able to have the crank turned, and use oversize bearings.

Just curious, I noticed you stated that you are going with a .020" overbore. Why are you choosing that much of an overbore when you haven't disected the engine yet.? Going with that big of an overbore leaves you with very few options if for some reason in the future you have no choice but to bore out the cylinders again.

If I was on a budget, I would do all the gaskets, evo16g and as many supporting mods as I could afford.

***edit***
While you have the engine out, be sure to scrub that engine bay nice and clean.. Hit all the parts that are impossible to reach when the engine would be in.

 

[rjdavis21]

well i prob wont go with an overbore then but do you think that stock sized pistons and rings will seal as long as the walls are in good shape? what all other supporting mods should i be looking at? also should i remove my balance shafts...i want the most Hp i can get cheaply so please help. how cheap would a machine shop charge to just bore mine block .20 over?

 

[ArticNemesis]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
well i prob wont go with an overbore then but do you think that stock sized pistons and rings will seal as long as the walls are in good shape? what all other supporting mods should i be looking at? blocking the EGT? does that help any? also should i remove my balance shafts...i want the most Hp i can get cheaply so please help.

I have no idea how your cylinder walls look.. You will have to take the engine apart to be able to decide. You can go with a .010" overbore if the cylinder's need to be rebored, that way you can do another rebore later on down the road.. As far as price, I have no idea how much it will cost in your area, you will have to ask a local machine shop that.
The rings usually come with the gasket kit, you just have to specify if an overbore or not. Shop around. I bought mine from www.machv.com .

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/stage1power.php are the supporting mods (some of them basic) I might add to get you up there in horsepower.

As far as removing the balance shafts, it doesn't give you any horsepower.. It does however, protect your investment by eliminating a belt that, in the event it would break, would destroy parts of your engine very quickly... Search for balance shaft, you will find many threads and debates on removing them vs not removing them. That decision is yours. As for your other post in the engine performance section, You can't just take the belt off, because the rear shaft is still spun by the timing belt(oil pump sprocket). The front would be the only one that does not move.

 

[rjdavis21]

see the reason i would have to do .20 over because the topline rebuild kit im getting from slowboyracing only comes in stock .20 over or .40 over so .10 is not available. i have all the mods for stage one and most for stage 2. but ill check the walls and see and if they are fine i wont bore. how easy is it to remove the shafts? i saw the vfaq and looked to be quite hard.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

rjdavis21: when u get the chance post on my thread in tuners but my question is when i go to unbolt the engine/tranny what mounts do i take loose? the main bolt that holds it all on that goes through the rubber mount or the 4 or so that hold the mount to the tranny and engine? it would be easier to just slide the 1 bolt out of each mount but i wasnt sure if it would come out that way please help thanks.

I'm not sure if the mounts are different on a 2g, but I'll tell you what I did on my 1g. I took the big bolt out of the center on the front, back, and right side motor mounts. On the left side, I took the center bolt out first then took the part of the motor mount that is connected to the tranny off to make it easier to get out.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Originally posted by IHeartTurbo
I'm not sure if the mounts are different on a 2g, but I'll tell you what I did on my 1g. I took the big bolt out of the center on the front, back, and right side motor mounts. On the left side, I took the center bolt out first then took the part of the motor mount that is connected to the tranny off to make it easier to get out.

Same for the 2g. Just watch that rear mount as you pull the engine so that you don't rip out any fuel lines or any wiring.

 

[rjdavis21]

ok thanx i got the engine lift and its coming out tomorrow...my other question is i think my 14b needs to be upgraded. first of all would it be safe to run 20-22 PSI daily on stock internals with all supporting mods and second is it worth upgrading to the 16g. also will i need to be worried about getting the B16g or the evoIII 16g for what i want out of it will it matter? heeelp