How To: Power Window Regulator Replacement - In Depth

[ImperfectTruth]

Disclaimer: I am aware of a similar thread located here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/407391-replaced-power-window-regulator-motor-assy-pic.html

Reference this for a better picture of the regulator mounting points as my pictures show it actually mounted in the door. I am starting a new thread with the hopes of being more inclusive; perhaps the 'end all thread' for this topic..

Getting Started

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You will need the following:

• Lubricant for the window tracks
• 5/32" Allen Wrench
• Rachet(s) with 10mm and 12mm sockets, extensions/deep well sockets
• #2 Phillips Screwdriver
• Replacement Regulator Unit (old unit is pictured)
• Beverage of choice

Removal

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Once your tools are gathered you will need to remove your door panel. If you need further instruction on how to do this, perhaps you shouldn't meddle with the window regulator.

Once the door panel is removed (and the plastic if you are the lucky owner of a virgin door) roll the window all the way down. Also go ahead and pull the inner seal/weather strip. Illustrated above I have the mounting points circled. These are short bolts with a phillips head but it is best to remove/install these with a 10mm socket.

Next, remove the 10mm nuts securing the window studs onto the regulator itself. One is located in the speaker hole, the other in the lower right access hole. Be sure to hold the window up slightly with your hand as you do this, as it will no longer be supported and will drop into the bottom of the door. Once everything is free, unplug the regulator from the chassis harness and pull the window up all the way. Have someone hold it in the full up position while you collapse the old unit and wiggle it out of the door.

Installation

With your helper still holding the glass, collapse the new unit and slide it back through the hole in the door. It will take some patience to get the regulator back into position with all the mounting holes lined up. I found it easier to start with the four holes around the motor first, the other two are cake. Once all the bolts are in go ahead and guide the window back down slowly and reattach it with the two nuts. While you want these snug, do not over tighten these or you run the risk of breaking the glass. Plug the new regulator back into the harness and your job is mostly done.

Adjustment and Finishing Touches

Now would be a great time to clean any debris/old broken hardware from the inside of the door, inspect surrounding areas for problems, and things of that nature. Be sure to lubricate the front and rear tracks the window is guided on to allow for smooth operation. The next step is very important and puzzled me at first. The four mounting holes around the motor are no brainers, but if you look at one of the back two bolts, it is an adjustment point. Pictured below is how I had the regulator installed to begin with.

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Note the adjustment on the front bolt. Pictured here is exactly what you don't want. Well, in my case it wasn't I suppose it could be different for you. With everything tightened down this way my window would roll up too far in the front and was sagging down in the back. This may also result in popping noises, like it's off track/coming off track as the window is rolled up/down. Simply loosening this bolt a bit, sliding it up as far as it would go and re-tightening was perfection. My conclusion - this is the 'angle adjustment' of the window as it sits in the tracks. Lesson learned - would be a good idea to mark how this bolt is positioned before you remove the old unit. If everything is working properly, of course. If you have any of the above symptoms, try adjusting this bolt!


Next on the agenda is part of the '2G window rattle fix'. Pictured below is one of the 'adjustment pads' as I'll call them. This is the one at the back of glass/door.

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It is bolted on with two 12mm nuts and two threaded studs with the 5/32" allen head.

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These should be slightly pressing up against the glass and supporting it. They help keep the window adjusted (as these are what the plastic stops grab onto when you roll the window up) and they also keep the rattling down when closing the door with the window partially rolled down. To adjust these, simply loosen the two 12mm nuts and crank on each stud with the allen wrench. You want to keep these as even as possible. Turning clockwise runs the stud into the bracket, thus pulling it away from the glass. Counter-clockwise obviously does the opposite and pushes the pad closer to the window.

A note on adjustment - the stud will let you know when to stop as you're adjusting this towards the glass, as you will feel it tighten. Once you've done this to each stud tighten the nuts back down.

There you go, once you're satisfied make sure you test everything a few times to ensure it's all working properly. Close the door and make sure the window is far enough up and making good contact with the weather strip all along the glass. Throw the door panel and inner seal/weather strip back on and enjoy your freshly functioning window, as well as all the money you saved doing it yourself!

 

[nickestes]

if nobody else will I'll say it, thank you.

 

[Armbar]

This really helps me! Just this last weekend I dove head first into figuring out how to get my passenger side window to work, as it was stuck fully rolled up. I eventually got it to work, but now when I roll it up the front stops about 80% of the way up and the rear goes too far. I'll fiddle around with what you called the angle adjustment nut and see if I can get it all leveled out. Thanks a ton!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Great work! Please submit this as a tech article.

 

[ImperfectTruth]

Thank ya Nick, I appreciate it! Glad to have your thanks, and glad to see that it's helping people out!

This really helps me! Just this last weekend I dove head first into figuring out how to get my passenger side window to work, as it was stuck fully rolled up. I eventually got it to work, but now when I roll it up the front stops about 80% of the way up and the rear goes too far. I'll fiddle around with what you called the angle adjustment nut and see if I can get it all leveled out. Thanks a ton!

Awesome man, way to go diving in and figuring your stuff out! If positioning that adjustment nut at the top as I mentioned doesn't level the window back out like it should be take a look at the white stops bolted on the glass. Make sure those are positioned correctly and catching on the felt adjustment pads (see picture 4 of my article). Feel free to pm me if you need some more help, these things are a pita..

Great work! Please submit this as a tech article.

Thanks Piper! Please forgive me but I'm not sure how to post this as a tech article. I'm not sure I'm even allowed, as I only have like 6 posts and I'm a newly registered member. Would be more than happy to if it's possible though!

 

[Funfettie]

BUD LIGHT PLATINUM!!!! WHOOOO!!!! (thanks for the write up!)

 

[Silver71]

Great article that I'm attempting to follow currently. The only problem I have, and one that doesn't seem to have been addressed yet, is how am I supposed to roll the window down if it does not respond to the power switch at all? As in, the motor is totally dead, with the window all the way up. How do you manually raise and lower the window or regulator? Any input is appreciated.

EDIT 1: I came across THIS POST for a similar situation so I will see how this turns out.

EDIT 2: Ok, see pics attached. What was said in the thread above was true: there is a way to separate the motor from the rail. However, it seems damn near impossible to do inside the door. You have to reach around behind it, find the bolts, which have a star head on them, and then you have to manage to get a ratchet on them and break the rusty buggers loose. See Pic 1. I don't know about you all, but it wasn't in the cards for me. So I ended up doing it the hard way...which leads me to the other pictures.

I started unbolting the bolts holding in the regulator motor and rail, which surprisingly allowed me to lower the window enough to get the window loose from the rail. However, in doing so, one of the plastic, white window guides (the inner one) snapped off. Pic 2 shows what I am talking about, just imagine it broken (they slide up into the adjustable felt thingamajigs at the top of the window when it is all the way up).

In addition, the little white plastic (derlin) piece in the metal bracket at the front bottom of the window, which guides the window in the outer rail, snapped in half as well. See Pic 3.

In the end, the new motor is in, but I am going to have to fix at least the 2nd part that broke for things to work 100%. Thought I'd share with everyone my experience. Might be a good idea to change the regulators when they are slow, versus when they are broken...

 

[mgleason007]

I know that this is old, but this is an excellent article. It really saved me a lot of time. I used this to help me convert to power windows. I didn't notice at the junkyard that the bolt holes were different. Your diagram saved me a lot of hassle. My door doesn't sound like it's falling apart anymore either due to the window rattle.

Edit: Also, my adjustment bolt on the driver's door needed to be all the way down. I haven't tested the motor since there's no power to it yet, but this makes the window line up right with the frame when I close the door.

 

[Doubleot]

Just installed one yesterday and I will be going back out today to do the adjustment. When I roll the window up about half way it kind of jumps like it's coming off the track then continues to roll up, I'll also be greasing the back track a little better. Thanks for this post OP!

 

[Dragnous]

Very Nice Guide. I was planning to tear my doors apart to tighten and maintenance. Mostly to ride my self of window and door rattling .

 

[TerrHimself]

This guide was super helpful. Did this yesterday and it took about an hour.