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2G How to make your 2g blow off valve not suck

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Allright first off I realize this is not the right forum to be posting this but because of the forum rules I am not allowed to post anywhere else. If someone who is an established member would like to steal this and put it in the Turbo Tech Forum, that would be great.

Okay so we all know that the 2g DSM blow off valve are notoriously crappy and hold no boost at all so I decided to get my hands on one and play around with it to see if I could make it hold more boost pressure without leaking. Here's my crappy drawing of a 2g BOV.

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A DSM friend of mine gave me one for free to play with so I started to do some bench testing with an air compressor. I made an addapter so that I could hook the bottom port of the wastegate directly to the compressor tank and an extra line with a release valve to use for the top port of the diaphram. I started bench testing it just as it was and found that it was actually leaking at 3 psi of pressure! :ohdamn:

Heres why, there is a hole drilled through the center of the valve which allows boost pressure to travel up the valve and inside the wastegate can under the diaphram. Under boost the pressure is equal above and below the diaphram so it relies totally on the spring pressure to hold it shut. With any amount of boost pressure at all the valve is forced open and it leaks.

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So why is the hole there? When you let off the throttel manifold vacume sucks all the air out of the top of the wastegate can which combined with the boost pressure under the diaphram forces the valve open and venting the excess boost pressure.

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So whats the fix? This is a trick that has been used on the 1g bov's for years, it just takes some creativity to addapt the trick to the 2g's. What you need to do is shut off the supply of boost going to the bottom port of the wastegate can. So just simply find something to plug the hole in the center of the valve. In my case I coated a nail with epoxy and simply stuck it in the hole. Then you need to make a hole to be vent the pressure out of the bottom part of the wastegate can when the valve moves. I drilled a small .100" hole in the can from the outlet port of the wastegate. Make sure you put the valve in in a vise or something to push the valve open to make sure you don't drill into the diaphram when you do it.

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After you have done this the wastegate will work as follows

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I again bench tested the valve to make sure it works so I filled the air tank with about 20 psi of air and the valve stayed tightly shut. Then I removed the pressure line from the top of the wastegate and the valve instantly vented the entire air tank even without a vacume source. The valve does not have a very good seal so it never seals up compleatly but the amount of leakage is minimal and won't affect performance, you can barely feel it on your hand. Next I started increasing the pressure to see what would happen. I eventually increased the pressure up to 50 psi and the valve still stayed firmly shut. Again I increased the pressure a bit and the valve blew compleatly off the connector from the pressure! So I made one final check to make sure the diaphram was still intact after seing 50+ lbs of pressure and it was. To test it out I put it on my BMW which runs 15 lbs of boost. It never leaked and vented quickly. Becouse I removed the boost source under the diaphram the valve doesn't open quite as easily as before, but it still opens redily at any pressure above 2 psi or so. So if your a cheap ass like me there is a way to make the bov on your 2g capable of holding some boost pressure without throwing it away and getting a new one.
 

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I just bought a new bov because my stock 2g leaked at around 2psi-3psi on like 8lbs of boost (or whatever stock pressure is..) like you said.

When I had the 2G Bov, it really hurt performance. When the turbo spooled up I could feel the engine lag/hesitate. I still have my 2G bov so I'm going to try this out. I think this would be cheaper and easier than getting a 1G bov if this works. No need to spend the extra 50+ dollars on a 1G (Valve, adapter flange and gasket) If this produces the same result. (Especially if your pressed for cash) Nice work bro! :rocks:
 
Amen to this. People need to stop venting w/o the proper air metering setup (clue: your stock maf/ecu setup is NOT the right setup). It doesn't make you cool and it doesn't make your car faster, in fact it makes your car SLOWER because of the jacked up fuel trims you get.

+1 :banghead:
 
No, you aren't going to hear a difference. BOVs are not musical instruments. Any sound they emit is a circumstance, not a goal.

Ok, I suppose I'm more interested in whether or not this mod will harm the system in any way. Is the quick release a fundamental feature or just to make a different sound? (which I now know is not the case). I think I will try this and if it sucks I will get a 1G bov or better.
 
Ok, I suppose I'm more interested in whether or not this mod will harm the system in any way. Is the quick release a fundamental feature or just to make a different sound? (which I now know is not the case).
The quick-release feature is in place to help "blow" the valve open under low boost situations where there isn't enough boost pressure in the piping to force the valve open (along with the vacuum from the line attached at the top) when you chop the throttle. Capping it off doesn't really hurt anything. If you're in a situation where the quick-release would need to be capped off, you're most likely running enough boost that it won't hurt to have the feature disabled.

Too much spring pressure or too little boost to open the valve properly will cause the valve to flutter as it opens, meaning the valve isn't opening and staying open properly. Not only does this play havoc on diaphragms from the valve opening and slamming shut repeatedly, but it also creates compressor surge by not allowing the airflow in the charge piping to be vented freely.
 
I'll tell you why, that's because your stock 1g valve is a bypass valve and not a true blow off valve... it leaks air ON PURPOSE... which very well could increase lag.... this is why people crush them (=retarded) or do the dodge garage modification (## cool).

On a 1g valve when you're recirc'd this leaking of air doesn't affect your tune but it probably does make the turbo spool a little slower or the power a little more sluggish.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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