This sort of goes together with my other article on how to install cruise control with an aftermarket wheel at this link:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...se-control-aftermarket-steering-wheel-ii.html
To remove the wheel please refer to the link I mentioned above.
Aftermarket wheels and most other steering wheels utilize a bronze/copper circle dealie where something applies pressure to help ground the horn. Its kind of like how a record player's arm and needle touch the record. Well the 2G doesn't use this system, instead it uses the clock spring to activate the horn. IF you removed your clockspring to install your aftermarket steering wheel this will help you get your horn working. There is another article very similar to this one where they used a hacksaw blade, but I didn't want to ruin a saw blade so I used a clamp, and any DSMer will have tons of these lying around right? Here is what the back of a 1G wheel look like, the aftermarket hubs are very similar.
Now first remove your steering wheel (refer to the above link if you don't know how) then remove the steering column covers. Its 3 screws at the bottom. This is what it looks like without the wheel (photo is after I modded the horn too)
Now you will have to remove the clockspring and take the cruise control and horn wire and join them together. Please refer to the article mentioned at the beginning of this one on how to do it if you've no clue what how to remove it and modify the wiring.
Next we'll go and fabricate an arm that will press on the horn ring. Get a worm clamp, the one in the picture is similar to the one I used. It can be any size just not too short. I like the one in the picture because it has slots cut into it which make it easier to bend and drill.
Measure how much clamp you need to reach from one of the plastic holes where the clockspring was using to mount to reach the bronze ring. The most suitable place is the lower left area of the steering column because the harness is only so long unless you lengthen the horn wire. Unless you want to extend it.
Now bend it to look like this, a vise helps:
You'll need two self tapping screws. Drill a hole on each end of the arm. Put the screws in to match the picture. Here's another picture of the finished arm:
Next we need to modify the horn connector. The horn uses a bullet connector, we need to change it to a ring connector like the one in the picture:
Now find a hole where your screw will thread through. It must be somewhere plastic because if it were metal and its grounded your horn will always be on and we don't want that. The screw contacting the ring portion you will want to not screw it in all the way. Leave it out, you can use this to adjust the arm tension. Also you can make the end blunt so it won't dig into your ring, which is what I found was happening later on. (UPDATE: I just realized if you don't want to scratch up the ring as much you can just flip the screw around so its the head that contacts the ring)
Here is a view from under the steering column of what it looks like when its installed:
Now install your new wheel, make sure it's centered and that the little prongs line up to the turn signal ones on the steering column or else your blinkers will not cancel properly.
Here's the finished product almost:
Now my steering wheel hub and horn button needed a small modification. I noticed the horn didn't work when I tried it. It turns out my hub was painted black and the horn button works by contacting the hub with a wire spring. Since it was painted it wasn't working. So what I needed to do was get a grinding wheel and grind some of the paint where the horn contacts. This may be the case with some aftermarket wheels. After this it worked no problem.
Beep beep, just incase your wondering this is a Nardi Classic (350mm) steering wheel. Its a popular wheel on old Japanese cars.
Also this will work on 1G wheels because it utilizes the bronze ring too, but it doesn't work with my cruise control mod because the hub hits the cruise control lever, you have to move the lever back more or modifiy the hub:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...se-control-aftermarket-steering-wheel-ii.html
To remove the wheel please refer to the link I mentioned above.
Aftermarket wheels and most other steering wheels utilize a bronze/copper circle dealie where something applies pressure to help ground the horn. Its kind of like how a record player's arm and needle touch the record. Well the 2G doesn't use this system, instead it uses the clock spring to activate the horn. IF you removed your clockspring to install your aftermarket steering wheel this will help you get your horn working. There is another article very similar to this one where they used a hacksaw blade, but I didn't want to ruin a saw blade so I used a clamp, and any DSMer will have tons of these lying around right? Here is what the back of a 1G wheel look like, the aftermarket hubs are very similar.
Now first remove your steering wheel (refer to the above link if you don't know how) then remove the steering column covers. Its 3 screws at the bottom. This is what it looks like without the wheel (photo is after I modded the horn too)
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Now you will have to remove the clockspring and take the cruise control and horn wire and join them together. Please refer to the article mentioned at the beginning of this one on how to do it if you've no clue what how to remove it and modify the wiring.
Next we'll go and fabricate an arm that will press on the horn ring. Get a worm clamp, the one in the picture is similar to the one I used. It can be any size just not too short. I like the one in the picture because it has slots cut into it which make it easier to bend and drill.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Measure how much clamp you need to reach from one of the plastic holes where the clockspring was using to mount to reach the bronze ring. The most suitable place is the lower left area of the steering column because the harness is only so long unless you lengthen the horn wire. Unless you want to extend it.
Now bend it to look like this, a vise helps:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You'll need two self tapping screws. Drill a hole on each end of the arm. Put the screws in to match the picture. Here's another picture of the finished arm:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next we need to modify the horn connector. The horn uses a bullet connector, we need to change it to a ring connector like the one in the picture:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now find a hole where your screw will thread through. It must be somewhere plastic because if it were metal and its grounded your horn will always be on and we don't want that. The screw contacting the ring portion you will want to not screw it in all the way. Leave it out, you can use this to adjust the arm tension. Also you can make the end blunt so it won't dig into your ring, which is what I found was happening later on. (UPDATE: I just realized if you don't want to scratch up the ring as much you can just flip the screw around so its the head that contacts the ring)
Here is a view from under the steering column of what it looks like when its installed:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now install your new wheel, make sure it's centered and that the little prongs line up to the turn signal ones on the steering column or else your blinkers will not cancel properly.
Here's the finished product almost:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now my steering wheel hub and horn button needed a small modification. I noticed the horn didn't work when I tried it. It turns out my hub was painted black and the horn button works by contacting the hub with a wire spring. Since it was painted it wasn't working. So what I needed to do was get a grinding wheel and grind some of the paint where the horn contacts. This may be the case with some aftermarket wheels. After this it worked no problem.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Beep beep, just incase your wondering this is a Nardi Classic (350mm) steering wheel. Its a popular wheel on old Japanese cars.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Also this will work on 1G wheels because it utilizes the bronze ring too, but it doesn't work with my cruise control mod because the hub hits the cruise control lever, you have to move the lever back more or modifiy the hub:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
