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how to choose torque converter

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pbwu1f

10+ Year Contributor
222
0
Feb 27, 2009
West Palm Beach, Florida
I'm planning on getting my stock converter re-stall so I'll be able to launch better. Just need to know how to choose an point were it should stall out. I'll will be using an HX-35 and my auto tranny already has new end clutches and a shift kit. Thanks
 
To better answer your question, whats the Garrett or Precision equivalent of an HX-35 ?
 
There is alot debate on this topic. I'm pretty new to auto dsms and have been doing alot of reading up on it. IPT has gotten a little over 4k stall on their restalled stockers. Is this going to be a daily driver or a track/weekend car?
 
I believe the HX-35 is around a GT30? Not too sure about that but I do plan on sending my torque converter to IPT. I was thinking about a 4K re-stall but again I'm not a auto kind of guy. This will be for an DD/track.
 
Have you tried brake boosting your car with the stock one yet ? Some stock ones are better than others..
I have used an IPT and am now using a Hughes re-stall..The IPT was perfect for my Evo III 16g and it didn't heat up my fluid any more than the stocker did..My Hughes is for bigger turbos and DOES heat my fluid more....I would recommend the Hughes for turbos smaller than a 35R...For a 35R and larger, some juice is needed on the line, IMHO....
This is relevant to a 1g only. The 2gs have the Precision billet option also...
 
I did brake boost with my stock one, and it seems like I got one of the bad one's :toobad:. It was only building 2-4 pounds and when I released the brake it was like it didn't even stalled up at all. I heard from a couple of people that I might have a bad torque converter. That's why I'm looking into getting another one, and while I'm there why not upgrade. I also got an aftermarket trans cooler in hopes of keeping the temperatures down.
 
To better answer your question, whats the Garrett or Precision equivalent of an HX-35 ?

The Garret or Precision equal to a holset is whatever garret or precision has laying in their trash can.

To answer the OP:

up to 16G needs a mild restall. Anything bigger than a 16G on a 2.0 needs the highest stall you can get your hands on, if you don't want nitrous.
 
I'm sorry if this doesn't belong here, but how does a high stall affect the car?

Drivability wise.
 
From what I understand, there's more distance it can slip before it fully engages. It's so you can use the power band much better on a launch. So if you have a turbo that doesn't start to produce power until around 4k, then you'll want a TC that stalls out at about 4k. As far as drivability, it drives just like a stock TC. If you get in a car with a high-stall and no one told you, you wouldn't even notice it.
 
I'm sorry if this doesn't belong here, but how does a high stall affect the car?

Drivability wise.

The car will feel the same, but your tranny fluid temperature will have to be monitored closely..The higher the stall, the quicker the fluid will get hot..This is only an issue if you daily drive the car, like me..
 
^Not enough I think.

I'd talk to that guy that carcannibal posted up he has a DSM himself and has experience setting up a converter. Plus they are a good price it seems.
 
The car will feel the same, but your tranny fluid temperature will have to be monitored closely..The higher the stall, the quicker the fluid will get hot..This is only an issue if you daily drive the car, like me..

I thought the temps only go up when your brake torquing? Did you see higher temps when driving the car too?
 
So how hot is too hot and what do you do on a daily when it gets to that point? Do you shut the car off?
 
So how hot is too hot and what do you do on a daily when it gets to that point? Do you shut the car off?

I run two coolers, one is a large B&M with a fan mounted to it.I have a toggle switch mounted beside the tranny temp gauge..When the temps get a little high, I cut the fan on...
Normal operational temperature is 160 - 180F....
If sitting still, keeping your rpms @ approximately 1000 rpms and the trans in neutral for 2 minutes will cool the fluid...
 
I run two coolers, one is a large B&M with a fan mounted to it.I have a toggle switch mounted beside the tranny temp gauge..When the temps get a little high, I cut the fan on...
Normal operational temperature is 160 - 180F....
If sitting still, keeping your rpms @ approximately 1000 rpms and the trans in neutral for 2 minutes will cool the fluid...

I have a pretty large Flexalite trans cooler mounted to the front of he radiator. Hopefully that is enough with the regular radiator fan. Is your Hughes converter the spragless one?
 
Is your Hughes converter the spragless one?

My Hughes is not a spragless one..A spragless converter would run even hotter and was not recommended by Hughes for my car..
 
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