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2G How to Adjust the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

knochgoon24

DSM Wiseman
6,137
85
Jan 29, 2008
Troy, Michigan
Ok, so I just replaced my throttle shaft seals and my scribe marks aren't enough to help me get the TPS lined up correctly. When in park, the RPM will go from 1100 then slowly climb to over 2000.

I found this post, but I'm not sure I understand it correctly:

From what I can tell 2G's TPS adjustment procedure is different than what I've posted for 1G's.

2G's critical adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS.
The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler gauge between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open. Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between 0.4 and 1.0V while the feeler gauge is still in place.
Anything in that range is ok as long as the IPS is adjusted correctly.
There is no way to adjust the TPS voltage independently of the IPS on a 2G that I can see.

So if I understand correctly:
1. Loosen the 2 TPS bolts.
2. Put a feeler gauge of 0.0177" under the stop screw
3. Turn the car to the ON position
4. Rotate the TPS until pins 3 & 4 lose continuity (open)
5. Verify that the voltage between pins 2 & 4 is .4-1 volt with the feeler still in.
6. Tighten TPS bolts and remove feeler gauge.

Am I correct?
 

turbotemper

Proven Member
203
0
Jan 23, 2009
Fresno, California
I had alot of issues with mine when i replaced it but i kept playing with it till it ran good.
 

Orangedsm95

Proven Member
70
0
Feb 9, 2010
detroit-area, Michigan
Im having similar issues with my car and was just wondering if the ignition needs to be in the on postion welling doing this test?
 

Aaron_TSi97

Proven Member
44
1
Oct 28, 2009
Oxford, Pennsylvania
i was and am kinda still having idle issues with my TSi but i finally went out and just loosened the TPS nut and moved it either way to see which way made the idle go down. after i figured that i backed out the screw to see if the idle would go down more but it started going up again so i screwed in the screw as far as possible, and kept the TPS angled down as far as possible then backed it off slightly. I tightened it and now the car idles at like 1050max/900 in gear. when used to be like 1800-2000max/1200-1300 in gear. idk if i hurt the car or anything, i havent knoticed anything bad besides it rides out the gears longer (auto) before shifting and i get slightly better MPG. any input is appreciated. thanks in advance

aaron
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,458
1,392
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
i was and am kinda still having idle issues with my TSi but i finally went out and just loosened the TPS nut and moved it either way to see which way made the idle go down. after i figured that i backed out the screw to see if the idle would go down more but it started going up again so i screwed in the screw as far as possible, and kept the TPS angled down as far as possible then backed it off slightly. I tightened it and now the car idles at like 1050max/900 in gear. when used to be like 1800-2000max/1200-1300 in gear. idk if i hurt the car or anything, i havent knoticed anything bad besides it rides out the gears longer (auto) before shifting and i get slightly better MPG. any input is appreciated. thanks in advance

aaron

On the Auto cars the TPS is used by the TCU when deciding where to shift.

On all 2G 4G63's the critial adjustment is where the throttle idle position switch opens and closes. The idle RPMs are not controlled by the TPS but by the BISS and the fixed idle stop screw which sets the limit for the throttle butterfly. The FSM makes a point of telling you not to touch it (FISS) because the position of the throttle butterfly when it's closed is critical for getting the proper idle speed.

Also on an automatic the ECU gets input from the transmission on if it's in gear or not. It uses this to manage the idle so that it's not racing in park and thumping when you put it into gear.

The car is intended to idle at 750RPM +- 100RPM in neutral or park and between 600-900RPM in gear.

With your "adjustments" it sounds like things are way out of whack now.

The procedure for setting the TPS is listed in the first post.
 

Aaron_TSi97

Proven Member
44
1
Oct 28, 2009
Oxford, Pennsylvania
On the Auto cars the TPS is used by the TCU when deciding where to shift.
On a 2G the critial adjustment is where the throttle idle position switch opens and closes. The idle RPMs are not controlled by the TPS but by the BISS and the fixed idle stop screw which sets the limit for the throttle butterfly. The FSM makes a point of telling you not to touch it because the position of the throttle butterfly when it's closed is critical for getting the proper idle speed.

Also on an automatic the ECU gets input from the transmission on if it's in gear or not. It uses this to manage the idle so that it's not racing in park and thumping when you put it into gear.

The car is intended to idle at 750RPM +- 100RPM in neutral or park and between 600-900RPM in gear.

With your "adjustments" it sounds like things are way out of whack now.
The procedure to setting the TPS is listed in the first post.


Yeah but like i said, if i didnt do my "adjustments" the car would still be idleing in park or in neutral at 1500rpms+ and in gear at like 1100+-200rpms. so my "adjustments" did indeed lower the rpms in both park/neutral and in gear. the stop screw is all the way screwed in also. so if i backed it out some the car will only begin to idle extremely high again
 

Aaron_TSi97

Proven Member
44
1
Oct 28, 2009
Oxford, Pennsylvania
LOL i would indeed love to fix the real problem. but as far as that goes, many ppl including my dad who is a mechanic/body man since before i was born has been trying to fix the idle. ive had the car for 3 yrs now and since day 1 the car has idle issues. we have have tried and done little tinkering with the car but nothing seems to permantly keep the RPMs down in idle/gear.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,458
1,392
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
This thread is about How to Adjust the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The correct procedure for doing so on a 2G is in the first post. There is one more step not listed.

7. Verify that the pins 3 & 4 have continuity (shorted) when the throttle is closed and don't have continuity (open) when you open the throttle slightly.

The whole purpose of adjusting the TPS on a 2G is to make sure that the Idle Position Switch inside the TPS is telling the ECU when the throttle is closed.

On a 1G the IPS and TPS are two different senders and the TPS gets set so that it reads between 0.48v and 0.52v which is about 10% on a datalogger.

You might want to start a new thread on your idle issues or search the many threads on the subject to see how to correct the problem.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

skippyman87

Proven Member
66
0
Sep 6, 2005
centerville, Ohio
So to knochgoon and other people on the forum, can I use evoscan to check the continuity/voltage or do I have to probe the back of the sensor plug while car is on?
 

giovanniv

Proven Member
386
0
Aug 8, 2008
normal, Illinois
Quick question. In step 4 when it says rotate the tps until continuity is lost, does that basically mean until pins 3&4 read zero volts?
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,458
1,392
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
Quick question. In step 4 when it says rotate the tps until continuity is lost, does that basically mean until pins 3&4 read zero volts?

Measuring continuity is usually done using the resistance (ohms) scales on the multimeter not one of the voltage scales.

Continuity is what you meter displays when the probes are touching (close to or equal to zero ohms) and no continuity (infinite ohms) is what it displays when the probes aren't touching.

Almost every meter I own has different readings for no continuity so you need to check yours.
 
Last edited:

giovanniv

Proven Member
386
0
Aug 8, 2008
normal, Illinois
Oh ok gotcha! Now I got it all setup but I have one last question. I got it all down to where I have no continuity in pins 3&4 and .9 ohms in pins 2&4 but when I moved onto the 7th step that you included, am I testing pins 3&4 without the feeler guage? I tried with and without and both times I still did not have any continuity.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,458
1,392
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
The last check is to make sure you didn't turn the TPS too far while setting it and now the IPS doesn't close when the throttle is all the way closed (with the feeler gauge removed).

The IPS is a switch, one side is grounded (pin 4) and the other is connected to the ECU which the ECU puts a voltage to and senses if it sees the voltage or not. When the throttle is all the way closed the switch grounds the ECU pin and the ECU sees that the voltage dropped to almost 0 but when the throttle is opened to at least the feeler gauge thickness the switch should open and the ECU now see the voltage it put out and knows that the throttle is opened.

So you have to have continuity between pins 3 and 4 when the throttle is closed and no continuity between 3 and 4 when the throttle is opened 0.0177". If you don't adjust the TPS correctly in step 4 to the point where the IPS just opens and go to far, then the IPS may not close then you pull the gauge out.
 

giovanniv

Proven Member
386
0
Aug 8, 2008
normal, Illinois
Alright well I did it over again and now I got it to where I was seeing .869 ohms from pins 2&4 but right when I took out the feeler gauge to see if I had continuity at pins 3&4, I still did not.

So then I moved the throttle body control arm (don't really know the name off the top of my head) against the closed throttle switch and it read 55ohms between the 2&4 pins!

So when I pulled the throttle again it read that it had no continuity but when I released the throttle it would not read continuity until i pushed down on the throttle body control arm on the closed throttle switch.

EDIT I was just thinking about it and is it my close throttle switch that actually gives pins 2&4 continuity or am I just getting continuity from pulling back on the throttle body control arm?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,458
1,392
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
Your only interested in pins 2 and 4 afterword and only to make sure the TPS output is ok. I'm not sure what your doing.

Pins 3 and 4 are the IPS and setting the TPS on a 2G boils down to setting where the IPS switches from closed (continuity between the pins) and open.

The factory spec is that the IPS should open when there is 0.45mm (0.0177") of space between the fixed SAS and the throttle lever.
 

giovanniv

Proven Member
386
0
Aug 8, 2008
normal, Illinois
Well I am doing that final check like you told me to make sure that my ips is working and for some reason it is not. Both with the feeler guage in and out I have no continuity.
 

99TALONTSI

Probationary Member
17
0
Jan 14, 2009
Worcester, Massachusetts
giovanniv= your tps sensor could be bad. there is a very small sweet spot to setting that ips, make sure your try it again before you spend $75 on a new sensor.
 
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