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How much can she run???

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tbTalonES94

20+ Year Contributor
333
1
Jun 23, 2002
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Ok here's the deal. I am turboing my 94 Talon ES 7bolt 4g63. I have bought the following things to make the motor stronger to support more boost. 8.5:1 2g pistons, 255 walbro fuel pump, S-AFC II, 2g Maf, 2.5" full exhaust, FMIC with full piping and stock 1g bov, and then the rest of the turbo parts in order to complete the swap. My question is how much boost do you think i could run daily with a 14b to have a damn fast car but keep the reliablilty. Thanks :thumb:
 
With a 14b? You could run ~18 psi and still maintain reliability.

Reliability is one of those iffy things. Some people get excellent reliability from their 350 hp motors, some get terrible from near stock motors.
 
18 hmm ive gotten a few opinions. Some people have pointed out that my engine will pretty much be a turbo 2g without the oil squirters which ive heard is good. So i think i can run as much as my fuel can handle. Which is probably roughly 18 like you said.
 
Oil squirters are your friend. You may be more knock prone without them. Your engine is actually better than a 2g turbo. No crankwalk, better head, better intake manifold!
 
there was a theory that the design of the 2g oil squirters caused crankwalk. I didnt say i would never get it but i have a lot better chance of not getting it. Supposably the 2g oil squirters take oil from the crank supply to push oil up into the rod bearings and pistons skirt. With the oil supply drained from the crank bearings there is obviously a good chance they will walk. I read it on this huge thing i cant remember where i got it from. It might even be on here if you look for it. SO back to my delemma. I pretty much have a 2g motor except with a better intake manifold and head and also without the oil squirters. I think i am just going to run 16-18 daily and just watch my knock. I shouldnt get any with the 2g maf and 255 fuel pump. But if i do i can richen things up a bit with the fuel controller. If anyone else has any opinions just slap em down!
 
with a 255 you'll need a fuel pressure regulator.
lsd would be a good idea; i have a friend with a 14b powered spyder, and he can't go full throttle until 3rd
 
You don't need a AFPR. If you find you are running super rich though, even with the SAFC tuned, just drill and tap another stock FPR into the fuel rail after the 4th injector. It's been done and works great.

I have no oil squirters either in my n/t 6 bolt block with turbo pistons. I can run 20psi on my EVO 16G all day long with no knock. MAF-T tuned.
 
TimG said:
You don't need a AFPR. If you find you are running super rich though, even with the SAFC tuned, just drill and tap another stock FPR into the fuel rail after the 4th injector. It's been done and works great.

can you say, "unnecessary work"? how is this better than just getting an SX (or some other co.) fpr?
 
TimG we need to have a chat on how you tuned yours and everything. Im using the 2g MAF and it looks like that what you have. So do you think i could run 20 psi all day long with no knock with the 2g pistons and the 7bolt rods?
 
I actually have the GM MAF-T now. It's tuned using the software within that. Stealth TT fuel pump and RC Eng 550cc/min injectors. No knock. Crazy boost. I love it. Logger and MAF-T tuned only.
 
That is awesome. I dont think im going to buy the GM Maf right away...probably not until way down the road. My logger was having some problems but i dont know what it is. I hooked it up to my brothers 90 tsi and it logged everything fine up right untill he boosted and it threw an error code at me? Idk what that is all about but hopefully i will be able to tune my car carefully without the logger if it does deside to fail on me!
 
I was fighting with my brother the last night about the FPR thing. He things i am going to need the FPR selenoid or my car isnt going to run right. I have been told that i dont need that and i just need the FPR because it is a rising rate. I have an S-AFC II and i also have the turbo FPR. TimG or anyone else know for sure if i dont need that selenoid. I know you said that i dont need an AFPR and if i run rich then tape in another one but i really dont want to go find another turbo FPR if i can just run with one fine? I know this may seem confusing i am tired so just read it a few times and you might get it LOL :laugh:
 
ok, with a stealth tt/vr4 fuel pump, you won't run rich or need a new fpr. does that solve the situation? you will be able to max out the 14b and still have flow to spare. your oem turbo fpr (not sure if it's different from the nt one) will be able to handle the aforementioned pump without a care
 
My set-up is the TT Stealth fuel pump, 550s, a turbo FPR and no solenoid. All it does it block off the vacuum signal to the FPR in cold weather so it dumps more fuel into the engine to start. GARBAGE. You have to wire up a IRP if you use turbo injectors though.
 
Yep i got the IRP. So everything i got is ready to go. Im turboing it the week of July 26th-31st. I cannot wait. TimG or anyone if you have any suggestions while i do it just write it down. THanks a lot everyone
 
out there said:
can you say, "unnecessary work"? how is this better than just getting an SX (or some other co.) fpr?


we gotta chat too..damn eurospec 4g63 ..im turboing it..im wondering if i shouldf try slapping a t25 on till it breaks..or do the extra work and get 2g pistons put in and a 14b.. :confused:
 
Im done! Im still breaking it in and it will be awhile untill i can see how much she can handle! All i know is that it is hella fast even at 30% throttle and 4 psi!!! I love it :thumb:
 
keep this thread up too! i need all the infos i can get ..ill be the first on this board to swap a 6 bolt into a 2g Eurospec 4g63 NT!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Ok whats the deal. I started my car today without my S-afc plugged in ( doing some interior rearanging ) and my car ran soo smoothly it was great. I plugged it in and it went back to runnin crappy and wouldnt idle very well. Also i still have my S-AFC unplugged and i get this timing retard or a kind of fuel cut below 3000rpms!! If i take off in first and give it any gas at all it just doesnt let me go. It will spudder and stuff untill i either let off a little or shift. In other gears it will do that right when i get on it but then it will go just fine. Also my a/f gauge is reading like extremely rich when i am just cruising or when i step on it. WHat the hell is the deal? Im taking second to last L.E.D when i get on it! :barf: I really want to know what the hell is going on? Anyone help me out here?
 
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