how much boost 16g 255lb fuel pump

[playa69jcr]

i have q 91 gsx i got 16g and i was woundering how much boost i can push with a 255lb fuel pump i also got 650cc NOT INSTALLED I was told if i was to installed without something to tune with i would flood my engine so i was just want to know how much i can push for now with a 16g and a 255lb fuel pump i was thinking about 18psi or so???????

 

[AWDfrank]

I wouldn't be boosting as high as some of these guys are saying. When I was running a Big 16G with completely stock fuel system I could only run 10 psi, 11 when it was cold enough. This was with zero knock.

When it was hot outside, at 10 psi I could get as much as 10-15 counts of knock by redline.

Once, just to see, I raised the boost to around 15 psi and by 4,000 rpm'ish I had to let off because I was already getting knock.

 

[DimondStar]

I ran a 255lph ona 16g with 550 and it ran great and still is at 17 psi

 

[DimondStar]

go for it i did and it still runs.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

so it would be ok to run 17-18 psi on a 16g with a 255lb fuel pump for now ???

If the car is in optimal conditions, yes.

 

[91 Eagle AWD]

Waste gate solenoid valve / Knock LED is what I use
Here's how

Tap off of wire 105 (orange) with either a 12volt internal resistor LED (available at some Radio Shacks) or use a regular LED with a 470 ohm resistor in series (Do not use regular indicator light bulbs). You must have either the boost control solenoid installed even if you're not using it or solder a 40 ohm resistor in it's place. Whatever you do don't just short the 2 wires together or you can damage the ECU. The LED will not work without either the resistor or boost control solenoid installed.

Operation:

When car is turned on the LED will be ignited for 3-5 seconds. It will flash on and off about 10 times then should remain off. This is completely normal and it's the ecu that is playing with the boost control solenoid.

If the ecu detects excess knock and it wasn't able to reduce it by slightly pulling the ignition timing back a few degrees then the LED will start to flash. This is the ECU closing and opening the boost control solenoid to gently reduce the boost level. If knock is still present the LED will remain lit solid and timing will be pulled further back. If you see this happening it is wise to back off the throttle.

If the LED remains lit solid at all times the ECU thinks that you're using cheap gas. The timing has been pulled back and the ecu is trying to limit boost to 8psi by closing the boost control solenoid. The ecu will eventually reset itself but it's much faster just to reset it. You can reset the ecu by pulling the bottom right hand fuse for 10 seconds (after the ecu has clicked off). If it happens again and you're using premium gas then start looking for problems. Check ignition timing, fuel pressure, a/f mixture, wastegate actuator, knock sensor and vacuum leaks. This is even more important if the boost control solenoid isn't hooked up to the wastegate actuator (you have some other form of boost control) and the ecu no longer controls boost.

 

[fastclip]

plata69jcr, Hey word of advice, i would really do research before you upgraded. Manly you are running the car extremely rich with the 255.

255 FP + no tunning + No aftermarket FPR= Really rich and hurting engine

Get a logger man, trust me even with an SAFC its a few hundred, or even a used one is cheaper. It is cheaper to get it now, then the whole engine in a few days/weeks/months

Also, Fuel cut is really our ECU seeing too much air (this is why there is a limit to how much boost you can run w/o a tuner), so until you get a tuner SAFC, DSMLink, Chipset. You won't be able to turn up your boost. I wouldn't recommend even turning up the boost with a stock turbo without tuning it.

If you would of done the research too, you would of found out that the 255 will over run the stock FPR, but a 190 wouldn't. But still for a 190 an aftermarket FPR is recommended, and with a 255 it is pretty much required.

Also, yes get a logger right now. But if you need it to see what your engine is doing now with trying to boost it high....DC=100+%, A/F ratio = rich. So get a logger, tuner, and put the 650 in. DSMLink might be some money now, but you won't have to upgrade it. Which with the SAFC you will have to if you dont get a cheap, and even so you will have to upgrade the chip if you plan on upgrading the power. Plus DSMlink is a logger/monitor too. Don't forget to get a Wideband too