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How many times can a 4g63t be rebuilt?

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Depends...you're not supposed to deck the head over .040...same with the block er maybe its like .020 for block.
You can rebuilt an engine as many times as you want as long as the clearances are there. Cylinders go out to .060, i've never heard of anything outside of that unless you wanted to go 2.3 with it.
This isn't the question you should be asking. You should find out how much clearance you have left in each component of your engine and see if it even needs to be machined then buy new parts if thats the case.
What are you starting out with? I'm curious why your asking the question...?
 
Mostly just curiosity... I built several SB chevys back in the day (20+ years ago) and then got out of wrenching. I know very little about turbos (well... I until 2 weeks ago... I've been cramming and re-learning how to use a torque wrench LOL ).

Bought this car a couple weeks ago and it seems to be in decent shape, other than some oil leaks and in need of a good tuning. Compression looks fine (171-175 across). Been working on cleaning up some "ghetto" mods that were done to it, and adding the ones that were missing (AFPR, 255 FP, etc.).

But I know it's been rebuilt once by the previous owner, and being a DSM and prone to being romped on from time to time (no matter how hard YOU TRY NOT TO :D ), it's gonna end up being rebuilt again someday.
 
^ ^ ^ Yeah. It's a matter of a few crucial things, like any other motor. They shouldn't be bored more than about .040, and if something breaks -such as, a balance shaft bearing or thrust bearing surface or the like- there's very little point in bothering with trying to fix it. These things are the Model A of the sports coupe world for these particular times, and just as the L-24 block in Datsuns, or the SBC, they're just too common to bother with welding, sleeving or the myriad of other techniques used on something valuable and rare.
Mitsubishi has always said, again, as is common contemporary manufacturer's practice, that the crankshaft is a non-serviceable item and if found to be out of spec, it is to be replaced. Many ignore this.
I've never found a straight aluminum head when taken off a car. Many years ago, myself and a few wrench-head buddies realized, y'know, these things are tinfoil. They're aluminum. Aluminum starts toward plasticity at about 400° F. So long as the cams weren't showing sign of severe bearing wear (which would scrap a head like this, also due to their availability), we'd bolt them back up and let them heat-cycle a couple of times and call it good. And, they were.
 
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