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nightspeed87

15+ Year Contributor
1,761
12
May 2, 2006
Tampa, Florida
Just bout a 92 awd laser off of a friend w/ the 6bolt 4 bolt combo for relitively cheap. hes owned the car for i think nearly 5 years and has had no issues with it for his past 2 years of driving it, was well maintained and fixed.
This car has seen its fair share of drag racing ( best of 11.9 115mph on e316g and race gas) and a lot of autocross and stuttar box launches.. ( Built trans )
and since its already fairly built i am only going to carry over a few mods from my gst and only do exterior and interior touch ups to the car and hope to just drive it for the next yr without a headache like my gst caused me.

Well anyways we did a compression test on it ( this one has somewhere around 86k on the block and maybe less than half of that on the head)
And it scored

Starting from the timing belt cover going towards the left-
147, 150, 160, 160 ( Stock 1g compression ratio. )

I think you dont want more than a 14 psi difference...?
The 160s on that test I believe were due to carbon build up since it was on the richest cylinders, and possibly why the one with 147 and 150 were on the leanest cylinders...

But it did take about 6 to 7 cranks for it to get its full compression therefore shows sign of wear. This car does have blow by and according to him burns about 1 quart of oil every 4- 500 miles ( with a good amount of boosting/racing during these miles... ). Which for my driving Id think that would equal to about 1 quart a month...
Does that seem normal? I know older dsms can consume quite a bit of oil especially under boost...

His car does throw a light film of blue smoke ( oil ) out under boost... ( Turbo is fairly new)
You wont see it in the day time, only at night in the head lights, and doesnt smoke one bit on idle, partial throttle or cruising, or when revving it up from a stop. Only under full throttle w/ boost will it emit light smoke ( once again not visible at day time. )

We pretty much say its blow by from age ( Both his pcv lines hang down towards the street )

As Ive discussed with my friend im hoping I can get at least a year out of this engine without any troubles and without the oil consumption worsening any just to have a fast car to drive back and forth from work and school basically.
I am very good with keeping up with oil though because my gst had/has very very bad valve stem seal problems and I had to put a quart of oil in every two weeks w/ regular driving, and it would be even worse if I drove hard.

Anyways Just trying to get some feedback thanks!
 
Maintenance is key to these engines, I have bad luck with transmissions though, I blew up an OEM trans with less than 1000 miles on it due to the 3rd to 4th shift fork, before that was my clutch, before that is was my rearend, before that is was my transfer case, i could keep going but im not going to LOL.

Im impressed your trans is healthy yet, good to hear some survive LOL.

Luckily this car already has a built tranny on it w/ double syncros etc.
Wont have to worry about damaging nothing when using my no lift to shift feature.
Also this car seems to be very ok with studdarbox launching since the previous owner used to launch a lot with no issues... (With good driving and clutch control of course)

So do most of you feel the cars longevity will be about the same with a 20 psi tune
versus the current 18 psi tune... The only thats changing is were lowering the air fuel ratio from 11.5 back down to 11.1
to stay a little conservative since its running some pretty aggressive timing maps. And were tuning for ZERO knock....
 
Luckily this car already has a built tranny on it w/ double syncros etc.
Wont have to worry about damaging nothing when using my no lift to shift feature.
Also this car seems to be very ok with studdarbox launching since the previous owner used to launch a lot with no issues... (With good driving and clutch control of course)

So do most of you feel the cars longevity will be about the same with a 20 psi tune
versus the current 18 psi tune... The only thats changing is were lowering the air fuel ratio from 11.5 back down to 11.1
to stay a little conservative since its running some pretty aggressive timing maps. And were tuning for ZERO knock....

As long as there is no knock, and your EGTs are in check it will be fine to do. Im jealous of your trans btw. Do you still have stock shift forks?
 
As long as there is no knock, and your EGTs are in check it will be fine to do. Im jealous of your trans btw. Do you still have stock shift forks?

Hmm good question.. I can find out. Once I start putting more power down when I get it stroked im going to upgrade the pressure plate because the 2100 wont be enough to hold the torque im trying to put down and if I do have stock shift forks then I will upgrade those then... At the track on like 26psi and race gas after numerous passes he said he managed to make the clutch slip going into 2nd gear for a slight second...But i wont ever run that much boost... My friend had used different tranny fluid before and i think hes found a good tranny fluid that works best. He said he did managed to make 3rd gear synchro grind while racing at the track before and he was mad that it made a grinding sound due to a rebuilt tranny and none of the other gears grind no matter what but he was racing and at high rpms, he said it only did it that time at high rpms but im sure this was while basically speed shifting it . I dont race around banging gears to much anyways so I dont think this tranny will cause any issues.

Yea he's tuning it for zero knock. I need a wideband though, thats what I want to put on my list, along with a oil pressure gauge because we ordered a front facing oil filter housing for it to replace the old one and im going to port the relief valve on it before it goes in since this motor doesnt have balance shafts. Its been running on 10w30 synthetic and i want to run a 40w ... He said he ran 20w50 in it once and it made the oil pressure go way to high and he had to dump it out.. So i suppose porting the relief valve will allow me to run thicker oil....
 
I've got 148K on the odometer of the 93 TSi AWD, but 0 on the rebuild. (not done yet)
46K on the 95 GS.
 
3rd gear would give me some trouble in my car. I spun second and knew it was going to give me trouble but really wanted a good time slip, so I threw it into third (hard) and it went it, I let the clutch out and nothing. Went to 4th, nothing. Went to 5th and coasted the rest of the track... as I approached the end I heard a "bump" turns out a peice of my 3-4 shift fork was caught in a gear, spun around with it, and took out a piece of my case. Not cool. Just make sure you rev match. I think since I was spinning second I should have let it catch up before I went to third. I dont beat my car on a daily basis, but when I do, I paid for performance parts for performance, Im no grandma at the track and occasionally on the street - but my Galant handles like it looks... like a Buick, so Camaro hunting doesnt go above 70-80, ever.
 
3rd gear would give me some trouble in my car. I spun second and knew it was going to give me trouble but really wanted a good time slip, so I threw it into third (hard) and it went it, I let the clutch out and nothing. Went to 4th, nothing. Went to 5th and coasted the rest of the track... as I approached the end I heard a "bump" turns out a peice of my 3-4 shift fork was caught in a gear, spun around with it, and took out a piece of my case. Not cool. Just make sure you rev match. I think since I was spinning second I should have let it catch up before I went to third. I dont beat my car on a daily basis, but when I do, I paid for performance parts for performance, Im no grandma at the track and occasionally on the street - but my Galant handles like it looks... like a Buick, so Camaro hunting doesnt go above 70-80, ever.

Are you fwd? Ive heard of the vr4s having a switchable transfer case were you can go fwd or awd ...
 
Are you fwd? Ive heard of the vr4s having a switchable transfer case were you can go fwd or awd ...

JDM Galants had the switchable feature. I ran across one of those trans but it was blown for 500 bucks- needless to say I dont care about that feature that much. I am AWD, Im running a 22 spline right now since my 23 spline was the trans I ruined.
 
168,890. bought car bone stock from old man. it never seen more than 9psi till i got ahold of it. don't get me wrong i have done some hard driving in it.but it still seams strong. it had 129,000 when i got it.and had a new tranny. not bad for 600$ sure beats a honda for same price. ( long live the diamound stars) :talon:
 
168,890. bought car bone stock from old man. it never seen more than 9psi till i got ahold of it. don't get me wrong i have done some hard driving in it.but it still seams strong. it had 129,000 when i got it.and had a new tranny. not bad for 600$ sure beats a honda for same price. ( long live the diamound stars) :talon:

600 is a hell of a deal..

Also keep the info going on your oil consumption too along with the milage you put down... Thanks !
 
to be honest depends on oil. mobil 1 about 1 qt. every 5000 mile. but royal purple 1 every 10,000. i guess that stuff is all its cracked up to be. oh yea 20-40 type. it helps with no valve tick
 
to be honest depends on oil. mobil 1 about 1 qt. every 5000 mile. but royal purple 1 every 10,000. i guess that stuff is all its cracked up to be. oh yea 20-40 type. it helps with no valve tick

This head has 3rd revision lifters so valve tick isnt a issue.
What weight royal purple you run? I was just thinking 10w40 synthetic would be good.
 
10-40 is good. if you have a large turbo you wiil notice a big diff in spool time. my bud dan said the reg oil had terribale spool time. compaired to synthetic. he has a holset hx-35 on his car. that turbo is a beast. so many v-8 guys don't even look his direction when the want to pick on a 4-cyl.
 
sorry 20-40. 3 quarts royal-purple 1 quart lucas oil stabilizer. not sure if spelled right. that stuff is a great product. my home boy cristos supra has 1245 hp. he stands by it. then again they sponsor his car.
 
what it dose is stabilizes the oil from viscosity brake down. it just straight up works. but i guess everybody has an opinon on diff products. ask around and see what ppl say.
 
I threw a rod on my 92 gsx at 113k....0 on the rebuilt motor. But, like Steve said hopefully my 0 will go up on saturday night! Woop!

Why, low oil pressure.... No oil at all... Bad tune... Tried to run too much boost and ran lean...?


And i guess ill be ok for a while with my 86k. There appears to be more people over 100k than under.
:dsm:
 
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