ECMlink how good is HP predictions from DSMLink, log inside

[techghost]

Attached is my log, max HP i saw on my log was around 380. does it seems correct for a colt running hx35 on 20psi?

why i'm already over 90% DTC? i thought 750cc are good for 1.6 or so.

please critique my log and advice on calibrating MAF, where shall i clamp it?

what shall i expect to run in 1/4mile?

 

[Dert]

As far as I know it is fairly accurate, as long as you are going by a number that is solid in rpm range and not just a split second spike if you know what I mean. Mine averages around 315-325, but I have seen a spike reading on there of 699 and by no means is that an accurate reading...at least I hope not you will see some odd spikes on there, but you can get a ballpark figure after a few pulls but for best accurate result of course hit up a dyno.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gooberlog]

Attached is my log, max HP i saw on my log was around 380. does it seems correct for a colt running hx35 on 20psi?

why i'm already over 90% DTC? i thought 750cc are good for 1.6 or so.

please critique my log and advice on calibrating MAF, where shall i clamp it?

what shall i expect to run in 1/4mile?

I dynoed 350 awhp on with a HX35 at 27psi. I was told by an employee at the shop with the dyno that the dyno reads low. Also my compression at the time of the dyno was 100-110 psi for all four cylinders. All things considered, it may be accurate, but that's very different from my unique experience.

As for 1/4 mile times, enter your info in to the site for a close guess. Driving skills will be a big factor. 1/4 Mile ET Calculator

 

[BigBeans]

I don't get a smooth enough speed reading, so not for me.

With 370whp it was saying 530-540hp and with about 430whp it was saying the same thing.

 

[gofer]

Attached is my log, max HP i saw on my log was around 380. does it seems correct for a colt running hx35 on 20psi?

why i'm already over 90% DTC? i thought 750cc are good for 1.6 or so.

please critique my log and advice on calibrating MAF, where shall i clamp it?

what shall i expect to run in 1/4mile?

ECMLinks HP/TQ numbers are only as accurate as you make them, and what I mean by that is there are A LOT of factors that come into play. Notice if you double click HP/TQ in your logs theres a sub-menu with a few things that can be changed. The most important thing to change in both the HP/TQ logged values is the drivetrain loss to 0 and get an ACCURATE vehicle weight with you in the car. Also, you don't just mash the gas through the gears and then look at your log and try and tune everything. You get up to speed in 3rd gear, keeping your RPM at 2.5k, then go WOT and take it all the way to 7k making sure you've got the pedal to the floorboard the entire time. Doing this will give you a nice smooth log that I'll be able to help you with, whatever you posted above looks like a bunch of shifting and brief WOT pulls that I can't tell you much about.

You can ignore your injector IDC's (I think thats what you meant by DTC?) because your MAFComp isn't calibrated, which will screw a bunch of logged values in link. I could type up a book or just send you a link to someone that already has, you can thank Jeff for creating this page.

Jeff GS-T Airflow Calibration

It's impossible to estimate 1/4 mile ET's and I almost consider it bench racing, a ton of factors come into play. On a GOOD tune I bet you'll see around a 110-115mph trap speeds in the 1/4 mile, the times your run are up to traction/shifting/track conditions/etc.

 

[techghost]

@gofer
What do you mean by calibration? My actual boost from omnipower 4bar and boostest is almost equal. So I assumed I'm almost calibrated.
Am I not? will appreciate if you could help me here.

if you guys have a look at my log then you will also see that I'm logging a map sensor, who's reading almost near boostest. Almost equal as jeffgst mentioned. My afr is on a very safe tune, sits around 10.2/10.4. Knock is max 2 degree which isn't that bad either, timing is good as well.

So What else I need to calibrate?

 

[snowborder714]

Try grabbing a log of a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline and posting that up. Your log is only so helpful because your didn't go below 4-5k most of the time. Your MAP sensor does match your BoostEst, but it shouldn't perfectly match all the way through the pull (see Jeff's page that Corey linked to above). I'm not sure if that's just because of how low boost you're running on that turbo or what.

And I would also suggest getting a wideband so you can accurately tune your AFR.

 

[techghost]

I have a wide band it's just that I can't log wideband and map both at the same time so I tuned it looking at wideband and logging map
My log shows that boostest and map reading between 5000-6000 is the same as JEFF has instructed, therefore i don't think anymore calibration is needed for this much boost.
Why there is such a big difference between MAF and MAFRAW, even though my boost is calibrated, does it matter?

 

[gofer]

@gofer
What do you mean by calibration? My actual boost from omnipower 4bar and boostest is almost equal. So I assumed I'm almost calibrated.
Am I not? will appreciate if you could help me here.

if you guys have a look at my log then you will also see that I'm logging a map sensor, who's reading almost near boostest. Almost equal as jeffgst mentioned. My afr is on a very safe tune, sits around 10.2/10.4. Knock is max 2 degree which isn't that bad either, timing is good as well.

So What else I need to calibrate?

I apologize for looking at your log so early, I hadn't drank my morning NOS before I looked at it so I didn't even see your MAP sensor. I didn't see a WB so I didn't bother looking for a MAP sensor, sorry! Like I mentioned in my earlier post, as Brian did also, that log you attached doesn't show much other than you doing some 50% to 100% WOT through a few gears. To get a good log to tune from/look at we'll need a 3rd gear pull from 2.5k to 7k doing 100% throttle. Even then, I won't be able to tell you much, since the WB AFR's aren't in there and if it were me (of course its your decision) I'd rather have AFR's being logged than boost.

That HX-35 is showing 40 lbs/min in your log and you're running 750's, so you shouldn't be seeing over 80% IDC's. I can't see your WB AFR's but your front o2 sensor, which is a 0-1v, is logging 1.06v which is EXTREMELY rich. Global settings are also for a 729cc injector (-38.3%) and a 750cc should be -39.8%, that should give you some injector back as well. You might also check your base fuel pressure, if its low you'll have higher IDC's.

My advice: Log your WB (you have a boost gauge to see boost psi) and do a WOT 2.5k to 7k pull.

...and your timing advance is very aggressive, I'm assuming because your running stock 1g timing? Not sure how that works on the S/C/M ECMLink, but you might think about running 2g timing since its more conservative. Since you are still on v2 you'll have to use the sliders, here are the settings to get close to 2g timing using the sliders.

RPM : ADJ
1000 : 0
1500 : 0
2000 : -3
2500 : -3
3000 : -4
3500 : -5
4000 : -11
4500 : -9
5000 : -8
5500 : -9
6000 : -9
6500 : -4
7000 : -3
7500 : -3
8000 : -3

Your MAF, since its a stock 2g, won't be getting overrun until about 50 lbs/min (MAFRaw @ 2700Hz), that being said you won't need to run MAFClamp.

 

[98GSXtacy]

Gofer is just so damn helpful .

 

[techghost]

@gofer
thanks for looking into it. infact thanks to everyone who had a look at it and advised.
Yes! i will make a new pull from scratch starting from 2k to 7k.

Main objective to make this pull was to calibrate my maf/boostest, which is calibrated. the whole time my wideband (once i'm WOT) was reading 10.2/10.3 which was very conservative. i will take it upto 11.4/11.5 max. i'm also concerned on the IDC, as for this much amount of boost i should've got 80 or so i was expecting to go into 90s% with 1.6bar boost . why am i seeing so high IDCs?

As for timing, until i'm seeing knock i will NOT reduce it due to the fact that its all good uptil now, i'm on stock 1g timing with high octane fuel so its all good. and if i can get away with this much aggressive timing without knocking higher then 1/2 then why reduce it?

 

[snowborder714]

How do you have your MAP sensor set up? Very close/on the intake manifold? Far away with 1'+ of vacuum line going to it?

 

[gofer]

That HX-35 is showing 40 lbs/min in your log and you're running 750's, so you shouldn't be seeing over 80% IDC's. I can't see your WB AFR's but your front o2 sensor, which is a 0-1v, is logging 1.06v which is EXTREMELY rich. Global settings are also for a 729cc injector (-38.3%) and a 750cc should be -39.8%, that should give you some injector back as well. You might also check your base fuel pressure, if its low you'll have higher IDC's.

i'm also concerned on the IDC, as for this much amount of boost i should've got 80 or so i was expecting to go into 90s% with 1.6bar boost . why am i seeing so high IDCs?

Thats what we're here for, to help. You must have missed a paragraph in my above post, I explained what you might try to reduce your IDC's to what they should be. Read what I quoted above from my last post...

You are correct, with those injectors and the amount you're flowing with the Holset, injector duty cycle should be 80% at best.

 

[techghost]

@thanks for your prompt help

Let me take another log day after tomorrow and post it here for your review, in that one i will log my LC1.

My map sensor is on firewall, vacuum is connected to a T which is with FPR as well not long at all.

what is the expected flow of hx35 at 1.7/1.8 bar?

 

[snowborder714]

1.7 bar = 25 psi (current boost)
2.7 PR = (14.7+25)/14.7 [left side of compressor map]
Highest airflow seen = 40.1 lb/min = .303 kg/s

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/362599-how-read-hx35-hx40-compressor-map-s.html


Now if I could just figure out how to read those darn compressor maps in that post. I don't know why I'm having trouble as I usually don't.

 

[habitatguy187]

As for timing, until i'm seeing knock i will NOT reduce it due to the fact that its all good uptil now, i'm on stock 1g timing with high octane fuel so its all good. and if i can get away with this much aggressive timing without knocking higher then 1/2 then why reduce it?

You're already knocking, you even said so yourself, 2 counts. Lower your timing and take away some fuel and both your knock will go away and your IDCs will go down a little. I wouldn't go all the way down to 2g timing myself but you can afford to pull a couple degrees along with leaning it out.