How do you check for crank endplay without taking the car to a mechanic???

[-DSM2NR-]

I need to know how to check for endplay in my crank. I was thinking of taking off my oil pan since I got to replace my oil anyways and check it that way. Is this a good way to do it? And what are some other ways to check for it?

 

[Staytuned]

You can check end play off your crank pulley if you have a mag base dial indicator and I little pry bar.

 

[-DSM2NR-]

I tried moving the crank pulley by hand when I did my timing belt and it didn't move at all. So, there's probably more acurate ways to check for it.

Anybody else got some info?

 

[Terrorize]

drop your oil pan, and check it that way----

 

[Staytuned]

I tried moving the crank pulley by hand when I did my timing belt and it didn't move at all. So, there's probably more acurate ways to check for it.

Anybody else got some info?

If your expecting full on crank walk, moving it by hand might be noticable. Otherwise you talking about hundreds of an inch .....good luck measuring that by hand.

 

[-DSM2NR-]

If your expecting full on crank walk, moving it by hand might be noticable. Otherwise you talking about hundreds of an inch .....good luck measuring that by hand.

Ummmm, yeah........that's what I pointed out and therefore am looking for some differnt ways to measure it.

 

[Staytuned]

Umm yeah you didn't mention anything in your original post about crankwalk.

Sorry for trying to help by suggesting the easiest way to measure crank end play.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Look man, he said it right the first time.
Use a magnetic base and a dial indicator touching the surface of the inner most crank pulley.
Use a large flat blade screwdriver and pry the inner most crank pulley toward the clutch.
Zero the biotch out and now gently pry the crank pulley toward your drivers wheel.
There you've measured it without going thru the trouble of removing your oil pan.

I measured mine back when I had 63k and change on the OD, I measured .007" endplay.
Now I have 111k and it measured the same, .007" that is, 7 thousands of an inch....

But, since you seem to think this method is inaccurrate, by all means prove me wrong by doing it this way, and then remove your oil pan and measure the endplay with a feeler gauge.....
Oh, and don't forget to get some RTV Gray and when you do drop that oil pan, do not use a screwdriver to pry it off, the flange will bend, and you'll have a pretty messy leak.
I used a 1" stiff putty knife to help cut the old RTV off.
Worked like a charm.
Oh and one more thing.
There are 2 screws I believe that screw into the front case, pay close attention to the location of those screws, cause if you put in a long screw where a short screw should be, you'll shred your T-Belt, and then you'll be in a world of shit!
Oh, one last thing... those oil pan screws are crap, if I were you, I'd buy a brand new set from SBR.... You'll see what I mean after you drop the pan.
Enjoy, and good luck with your endplay results...

 

[rubixphx]

Look man, he said it right the first time.
Use a magnetic base and a dial indicator touching the surface of the inner most crank pulley.
Use a large flat blade screwdriver and pry the inner most crank pulley toward the clutch.
Zero the biotch out and now gently pry the crank pulley toward your drivers wheel.
There you've measured it without going thru the trouble of removing your oil pan.

I measured mine back when I had 63k and change on the OD, I measured .007" endplay.
Now I have 111k and it measured the same, .007" that is, 7 thousands of an inch....

But, since you seem to think this method is inaccurrate, by all means prove me wrong by doing it this way, and then remove your oil pan and measure the endplay with a feeler gauge.....
Oh, and don't forget to get some RTV Gray and when you do drop that oil pan, do not use a screwdriver to pry it off, the flange will bend, and you'll have a pretty messy leak.
I used a 1" stiff putty knife to help cut the old RTV off.
Worked like a charm.
Oh and one more thing.
There are 2 screws I believe that screw into the front case, pay close attention to the location of those screws, cause if you put in a long screw where a short screw should be, you'll shred your T-Belt, and then you'll be in a world of shit!
Oh, one last thing... those oil pan screws are crap, if I were you, I'd buy a brand new set from SBR.... You'll see what I mean after you drop the pan.
Enjoy, and good luck with your endplay results...

Couldn't of said it better...

 

[-DSM2NR-]

Ahhh crap. I should've done this when I did my belt. I don't really feel like taking everything off again. Can I check it on the crank pulley without having to remove all the covers and all the other shit?

 

[Strm Trpr]

Yes, do it the way I described.
All you have to do is remove drivers wheel and splash guard.
Remember to pry on the inner most crank pulley, and be careful when you are prying the inner crank pulley toward the drivers side not to crack your lower T-Belt Cover.