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How do I check my control arms and bushings?

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PieEyedPiper

DSM Wiseman
5,580
65
Nov 13, 2004
North Bay Area, California
My car rides like ass, I know the shocks are blown ( I have koni's ordered up), and i have some cv axle issues (even though no torn boots), but I have a terrible ride and lots of clicking and popping and squeeking.

How would I go about diagnosing these problems? How do I know if these parts are good or have gone bad? Thanks!
 
When you have the shocks and struts removed, try moving the control arm up and down by hand. It should move quite easily and not spring back into it's original position when you let it go. If it doesn't move freely without any binding, then those bushings have probably siezed onto the mouting pins.
 
as well i just did my front this weekend... and u might need to replace your strut mounts.. thats what could be causing the squeeking... i replace the strut mounts when i installed the shocks, and no more squeeking..... strut mounts are about 10-20 bucks each depending on where u look...
 
PieEyedPiper said:
great info you guys, thanks.
Could you tell me more about these strut mounts?
sources, part numbers, what they look like..
Thanks!

the strut mounts are basically go on top of your shocks... and prevents any squeking.. they are rubber so in time they will get worned out.. and since our cars are pretty old.. yours a 99.. thats 7 yrs old.. and chances are you prob never replaced them.. so there is a 90% chance they are worned out.. you prob can get them at any parts store... do a search for strut mounts...

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This is a pix of what the kit looks like.. so just buy 4 of them.. they are the same part for rear and front..

I will try to find a picture of what it looks like on the shock...
 
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ok here is a pix of the front shocks...
 

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I don't know that I have actually worn out any rubber bushings on my car but they are not to be ruled out. The highest wear front end parts I have seen:

1. Lower ball joints (the ones in the lateral control arms).
2. Sway bar end links.
3. Outer tie rod ends.
4. Inner tie rod ends.

Pretty much in that order. These have all been changed on my car to eliminate squeaks, clicks and pops. With some of these parts the wear can be felt, seen or heard by while laying under the car and moving the suspension around. Inner tie rod ends and sway bar end links can be the hardest to diagnose; the former because they are out of sight and the latter because they don't act the same with the wheels unweighted as they do when you are traveling down the road.

I would recommend replacing all these parts. Do it all at once if you can. It's both more cost and time effective, especially since most require an alignment check afterward.
 
Quasimondo said:
When you have the shocks and struts removed, try moving the control arm up and down by hand. It should move quite easily and not spring back into it's original position when you let it go. If it doesn't move freely without any binding, then those bushings have probably siezed onto the mouting pins.
I'm sorry, but that is very, very wrong. Our OE bushings have the rubber bonded to the sleeve. They do not move freely unless and until they rip. Yes, they act as extra (non-linear) springs, which is another good reason to replace them with urethanes, but that is way they are.

- Jtoby
 
PieEyedPiper said:
Great informartion you guys, I really appreciate it. I"ll update with how this allw ent when I get it done.
Thanks!

no probs... i will be installing my rears this weekend, and will let u know how the full combo of tokico illumina and prokits feel.... with just the front they feel really good and able to handle the rough roads pretty good.. i've tried settings 2-5 this week and like setting 3 the best... for the fronts..
 
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