How difficult is it To rebuild a 2g awd transmission

[94Jettameowpsst]

To rebuild a 2g awd transmission. The things been a little bit notchy since i bought the car, no biggie, but i just shifted from 2nd to 3rd gear and it ground HARD and when i put it in 4th its like its in 4th gear but the shifter moves around like its not in gear. Plus the lever farthest from the block (on the tranny *shift lever) will move like there's nothing there. Any ideas...and where would i get the parts? I've never ripped a tranny apart before.

 

[Elvenhome21]

sounds kind of like a bent shifter fork, before you tear it apart you might want to pull that cover on the side of the tranny and check to make sure the nuts on the O/D gears are still tight.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Anyone know if the 1gb (92.5 and up) awd tranny will work in my 95? I've never seen under the hood of one so idk if the tranny mounts are the same. If you know please let me know because i need a tranny asap!

 

[twicks69]

Personally, you are better off sending it to a reputable transmission builder than purchasing a used one off of ebay.

Shep, TRE, Jacks transmissions, etc. have been the top names on this forum in SEVERAL threads.

Since you are in a need to get one fast, I would really reccomend that you don't try to do it yourself, because it could easily spell problems and more money and time wasted. If you feel competent enough, and have all the tools needed, then have at it--it isn't too bad, but you better know darn well what you are doing and looking at. It isn't just "unbolt and replace". You do need some special tools, a hydraulic press, air compressor & good 1/2" impact, etc.

It sounds like you need a few parts on top of a "freshening up" rebuild. Either way, replace the shift forks, synchros, bearings, etc. You are looking around $125-150 for synchros, $90-100 in shift forks, $200 for ALL bearings, roll pins, trans filter, plastic oiling channel, etc. This isn't even gears, shafts, rails, hub/slider assemblies, etc. So, you would need around $400-500 minimum in parts on a good basic rebuild depending on the condition of your current tranny.

You are looking around $800-1000 to Shep for a "stage 1", $1000-1100 to TRE for a "budget", and $800-1000 to Jacks for an "economy rebuild". The parts list are below:



Shep:

New 1-2 Fork
New 3-4 Fork
New Shep Trans Spec 2nd Gear
New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve kit with Double Synchro Rings
New 3-4 Synchro Rings
New 5th Gear Synchro Rings
New 1-2-3-4 Synchro Springs
New Input, Output, and both Drive Shaft Seals
New Input Shaft Bearings
New Intermediate Gear Bearings
New Roll Pins
New End Nuts
New Center Diff Side Shims
New Nylon Shifter Pad
Shims for setting preload
Call for 90 pricing
New engine dowels


TRE:

*New 1st-2nd hub & sleeve
*New 1st-2nd shift fork
*New 3rd/4th shift fork
*New double synchro 2nd gearset
*New Input shaft bearings
*New intermediate shaft bearings
*New needle bearings under 1st -5th gears
*New oil seals
*New synchro keys
*New synchro key springs
*New front & center differential shims
*New heavy duty Neodymium trash magnet, oil filter and magnetic drain plug. Keeps the oil clean.
*New snap rings, roll pins, end nuts, bearing shims and all the other non-reusables that you would expect to be replaced in a quality rebuild.
*Torrington bearing upgrade for center differential
*Glass beading of transmission case


Jacks:

*New 1-2 fork
*Unbreakable 3-4 fork upgrade- 1G
*New 3-4 fork- 2G
*New all brass synchronizer blocker ring upgrade- 1G
*New all brass synchronizer blocker ring OEM- 2G
*Our own machined double synchro 2nd gear upgrade
*New 1-2 synchronizer hub
*New 1-2 synchronizer slider
*New 1-2 synchronizer springs
*New 1-2 synchronizer shoes
*New 3-4 all brass synchronizer blocker ring upgrade- 1G
*New 3-4 brass synchronizer blocker rings OEM- 2G
*New 3-4 springs
*New 3-4 shoes
*New 5th gear synchronizer blocker ring with flipped slider
*New seals
*New tapered roller bearings on each end of intermediate shaft
*New 1-2, 3-4, and 5-R roll pins
*New center diff spider gear side shims and upper Torrington upgrade
*Reset bearing preloads for maximum bearing and gear life
*Replace all bell housing case bolts
*All case and internal parts cleaned in industrial spin-jet parts washer



You can do it yourself, or you can let a pro do it. Call them and see how fast they can get it done.

I have had one of my many trannies rebuilt, shipped to Shep on a Thursday, recieved Friday, shipped Friday, and recieved at my doorstep on Monday. Now thats fast!


If you decide to do it yourself, do a search, I have answered many peoples questions and given step by step information on a few threads lately to help people.

Good luck,

 

[twicks69]

Anyone know if the 1gb (92.5 and up) awd tranny will work in my 95? I've never seen under the hood of one so idk if the tranny mounts are the same. If you know please let me know because i need a tranny asap!

It doesn't have the same mount locations. People have installed them on a 2G before, but it requires modification.

You are better off getting a rebuild, then you have a good trans to work with, instead of using a 15 year old used trans that may require repair as well.

I am speaking from experience, so take it as that.... If you want it done right, either spend alot of time and money doing it yourself and learning, or go to a pro. Personally I have done it the DIY way and the pro way, and have learned trans rebuilds by doing it myself after breaking my trannies on a regular basis (now on #10 -- 9 of them being race built trannies). I have experience with TRE and Shep, and Shep has done a better job of the two.

If you want communication, reputation, and quality/expedience of services provided, then go to Shep.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Thanks for the post, id give you rep pts but dont know how
Anyways, i called Shep and hes backed up for 2 weeks. Apparently TRE can have it done in like 2 days or so. They both said it sounds like i broke the slider, shift rail, and fork for 3-4 gear. 1-2 still work, but like i said its stuck in 4th gear in the trans.
The thing that REALLY sucks is im very short on cash at the moment since i just bought a new turbo/install kit just a week ago! (this is my luck haha) And the way events add up, i figure i will either get CW or chuck a rod in the near future, so maybe i should start a 6 bolt build up now

Again, i say thanks for the info, was wonderin how long it would take for someone to respond

 

[twicks69]

If it is JUST a hub/slider or fork issue I will be more than happy to give you directions to replace them.

Usually if it is stuck in a gear it is either a fork or a hub/slider.

If you want to get your hands dirty, pull the tranny out of the car, and drain it. Then put it on a bench with lots of towels, or do a simple way -- take a large cardboard box and break it down so it lays flat, then take a heavy duty garbage bag, and slide the box into the bag. Then you have a nice surface to work on, that you can throw away when it is all done, and the plastic surface is easy to slide under the car if you don't do it all in one day.

Now, pull the 5th gear end cover, remove the snap ring on the viscous coupler, pull the viscous coupler (make sure you don't lose the little detent steel ball on the shaft), then It is a 36mm socket that you will need to remove the shaft nuts. Using a 1/2" impact is your correct way of taking it off. Doing any other way is wasting your time. If you put the tranny into a gear, it will stop it from freewheeling.

Good luck pulling the 5th gears. I have actually had good luck pulling the intermediate 5th gear using a valve spring compressor with thin jaws (from autozone or any other parts store ~$15), pulling on the top recess surface of the gear. If you are prying from underneath, you can easily chip the teeth on the gear from the prybars between the case and the gear. Sometimes they come off easily, and sometimes they are a horrible time to pull -- patience is the key.

Once they are pulled, you can remove the 5th gear assembly and the intermediate cover.

Now you will have access to the center differential, pull that, and pop out the roll pins on the shift rails, along with removing the three detent nuts, balls and springs, along with the reverse gear sensor. This should be enough for you to get to the 3/4 hub and slider, shift fork, gear and synchros. When you get to the hub and slider, the three keys are held in by a spring on each side of the hub.

At this point, inspect EVERYTHING, then move forward -- take your time.

Replace the transmission filter, clean the oiling magnet passage, and buy lots of brake cleaner to spray off all the gears and pieces. Paper rags work the best in this scenario also.




If you have any questions, I am more than happy to help you get it on the road!

Be sure to inspect everything carefully, and if you can, have your used stuff magnafluxed prior to reinstallation to catch any future problems. Forks are easy to replace along with synchros, rails and hub/sliders.

 

[twicks69]

Thanks for the post, id give you rep pts but dont know how
Anyways, i called Shep and hes backed up for 2 weeks. Apparently TRE can have it done in like 2 days or so. They both said it sounds like i broke the slider, shift rail, and fork for 3-4 gear. 1-2 still work, but like i said its stuck in 4th gear in the trans.
The thing that REALLY sucks is im very short on cash at the moment since i just bought a new turbo/install kit just a week ago! (this is my luck haha) And the way events add up, i figure i will either get CW or chuck a rod in the near future, so maybe i should start a 6 bolt build up now

Again, i say thanks for the info, was wonderin how long it would take for someone to respond

Since you are not a "wiseman" they have a thread listed below which you can add feedback for the moderators to review. I appreciate it! This is what I like to do the most -- help others with their problems!

This one is actually started recently by other members for me:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249769

Sincerely,

Tim Zimmer