havoc742
15+ Year Contributor
- 110
- 0
- Jul 29, 2004
-
Sacramento,
California
Why it is possible to run 11s on a 14b turbo.
The DSM is an amazing machine. No doubt about it. But who would have ever thought someone would be able to run 11s on a 14b turb
MG Many of us are wondering how is this possible? So I started doing some research into how a turbo engine works. I found some amazing information that has changed how I will upgrade my DSM. (Upgrade yours however you would like)
The key to making the most out of engines and turbos is to optimize the flow of oxygen into our engines and regulate pressure differentials.
What is pressure differential?
Pressure differential is a combination of Intake pressure, cylinder pressure and exhaust pressure(back pressure). These pressures are affected by air density, boost, exhaust piping, and intake piping respectively.
Most of us, including myself, started our upgrade process by first purchasing a boost controller and cranking it up to 15psi. Sounds like a good thing to do and man does the car feel good. Heres the problem with doing this. As you increase boost pressure your engine expels more exhaust thus creating more back pressure. Before turning up our boost we need to acknowledge the fact that oxygen content into the engine, not boost pressure, increases power. A ported head and upgraded intercooler can make a lot of power without increasing boost. This isnt to say that increasing the boost on our cars isnt necessary. We all know that the factory boost setting is to low. For now a boost pressure of 12-14psi is plenty for the beginning of our upgrade. An upgraded intercooler is probably not necessary just yet(as some have run 11's on stock SMIC) but it would provide a little more power now. An intermediate intercooler (18-20x10x2) or the Buschur kit, which is designed to work with small and large turbos, is sufficient enough for 300-500hp applications. A Supra SMIC will probably work aswell.
The next upgrade that our DSMs could benefit most from is an upgraded exhaust. As I stated above the more boost, the higher the back pressure. With the increase in flow from our ported head we need to get ride of all that extra backpressure we have created. A simple start is to remove the cat and upgrade the muffler. If you have the money upgrading to either a 2.5 down pipe transitioning to a 3 exhaust at the flex pipe or a full 3 system would be best. Note: With a 3 down pipe you might wind up with a little boost creep.
Another well suited upgrade at this point is hard intercooler piping. The ripples in the plastic factory piping make a lot of turbulence slowing the flow of air to the intake manifold. Upgrading the intake pipe, getting a K&N filter(or whatever you like), and hacking the MAS(1G only) will also help the turbo suck more air.
By porting our head and upgrading our I/C pipes we have optimized the flow of oxygen to the engine and the expulsion of the exhaust gases. By upgrading our intercooler the air getting to the engine is cooler making it more condensed increasing the pressure in the intake thus increasing the amount of air entering the combustion chamber all without having to increase boost. Upgrading our exhaust reduces the amount of backpressure from the increased exhaust gases being expelled.
We are almost to the point of increasing boost beyond 15psi but first we need to understand how valve timing is directly proportionate to boost levels. In boost applications 15psi and under the turbo works best when the intake valve opens close to TDC and stays open a little ATDC(after top dead center). As boost is increased beyond 15psi but below 30psi it is best to delay the opening of the intake valve a little after TDC. After 30psi valve timing becomes tricky. Adjustments across the entire timing curve are necessary to avoid reversion(shifting of intake charge out of the cylinder).
This leads us back to pressure differential. Ideally, you want the intake valve to open when the pressure in the cylinder is close to or equal to the boost pressure and as close to when the exhaust valve closes, never before. If both valves are open at the same time this is called valve overlap. If the pressure in the exhaust is greater than the pressure in the cylinder and intake some exhaust gases will be forced back into the cylinder and some of the intake charge will be forced back into the intake. If the intake pressure is greater than the exhaust pressure then some of the intake charge may be forced into the exhaust housing increasing temperatures of the exhaust valves and turbo.
Ultimately the next best upgrade is some sort of engine management to control timing as well as fuel. Obviously as you increase the air going into the engine you need to increase the amount of fuel. Upgrading your cams can also help you gain the most out of your turbocharged engine.
Remember, as you increase boost pressure you also increase the pressure in the cylinder. These added pressures can take there toll on the stock internals and valve train. When upgrading to larger turbos upgrading your internals and valve train can help prevent the ominous boom some of us have heard at the track when the engine blows and avoid head problems such as floating a valve, etc.
As to the 14bs potential. We dont yet know where it stops. With the right supporting mods and proper timing we could see times well into the 10s before we find its limits.
Hopefully with this information you can decide the best upgrade path for you and what you would like to achieve. No where in here am I saying that what you have done is wrong or that you have to do it this way. I am simply stating the information I have researched as it pertains to the DSM and how I would like to upgrade my DSM. With any luck hopefully I can avoid blowing my engine at the track.
Upgrades such as swapping heads, SMIMs, exhaust manifolds, turbos, external wastegates and things like compression ratios and stroker kits have effects I did not cover in here due to the fact that there are to many variables to cover without writing a book. If you have questions pertaining to these items seek the knowledge of someone doing these changes or an experienced shop. The information stated here are basic concepts to consider when doing any turbo swap.
The DSM is an amazing machine. No doubt about it. But who would have ever thought someone would be able to run 11s on a 14b turb
MG Many of us are wondering how is this possible? So I started doing some research into how a turbo engine works. I found some amazing information that has changed how I will upgrade my DSM. (Upgrade yours however you would like)The key to making the most out of engines and turbos is to optimize the flow of oxygen into our engines and regulate pressure differentials.
What is pressure differential?
Pressure differential is a combination of Intake pressure, cylinder pressure and exhaust pressure(back pressure). These pressures are affected by air density, boost, exhaust piping, and intake piping respectively.
Most of us, including myself, started our upgrade process by first purchasing a boost controller and cranking it up to 15psi. Sounds like a good thing to do and man does the car feel good. Heres the problem with doing this. As you increase boost pressure your engine expels more exhaust thus creating more back pressure. Before turning up our boost we need to acknowledge the fact that oxygen content into the engine, not boost pressure, increases power. A ported head and upgraded intercooler can make a lot of power without increasing boost. This isnt to say that increasing the boost on our cars isnt necessary. We all know that the factory boost setting is to low. For now a boost pressure of 12-14psi is plenty for the beginning of our upgrade. An upgraded intercooler is probably not necessary just yet(as some have run 11's on stock SMIC) but it would provide a little more power now. An intermediate intercooler (18-20x10x2) or the Buschur kit, which is designed to work with small and large turbos, is sufficient enough for 300-500hp applications. A Supra SMIC will probably work aswell.
The next upgrade that our DSMs could benefit most from is an upgraded exhaust. As I stated above the more boost, the higher the back pressure. With the increase in flow from our ported head we need to get ride of all that extra backpressure we have created. A simple start is to remove the cat and upgrade the muffler. If you have the money upgrading to either a 2.5 down pipe transitioning to a 3 exhaust at the flex pipe or a full 3 system would be best. Note: With a 3 down pipe you might wind up with a little boost creep.
Another well suited upgrade at this point is hard intercooler piping. The ripples in the plastic factory piping make a lot of turbulence slowing the flow of air to the intake manifold. Upgrading the intake pipe, getting a K&N filter(or whatever you like), and hacking the MAS(1G only) will also help the turbo suck more air.
By porting our head and upgrading our I/C pipes we have optimized the flow of oxygen to the engine and the expulsion of the exhaust gases. By upgrading our intercooler the air getting to the engine is cooler making it more condensed increasing the pressure in the intake thus increasing the amount of air entering the combustion chamber all without having to increase boost. Upgrading our exhaust reduces the amount of backpressure from the increased exhaust gases being expelled.
We are almost to the point of increasing boost beyond 15psi but first we need to understand how valve timing is directly proportionate to boost levels. In boost applications 15psi and under the turbo works best when the intake valve opens close to TDC and stays open a little ATDC(after top dead center). As boost is increased beyond 15psi but below 30psi it is best to delay the opening of the intake valve a little after TDC. After 30psi valve timing becomes tricky. Adjustments across the entire timing curve are necessary to avoid reversion(shifting of intake charge out of the cylinder).
This leads us back to pressure differential. Ideally, you want the intake valve to open when the pressure in the cylinder is close to or equal to the boost pressure and as close to when the exhaust valve closes, never before. If both valves are open at the same time this is called valve overlap. If the pressure in the exhaust is greater than the pressure in the cylinder and intake some exhaust gases will be forced back into the cylinder and some of the intake charge will be forced back into the intake. If the intake pressure is greater than the exhaust pressure then some of the intake charge may be forced into the exhaust housing increasing temperatures of the exhaust valves and turbo.
Ultimately the next best upgrade is some sort of engine management to control timing as well as fuel. Obviously as you increase the air going into the engine you need to increase the amount of fuel. Upgrading your cams can also help you gain the most out of your turbocharged engine.
Remember, as you increase boost pressure you also increase the pressure in the cylinder. These added pressures can take there toll on the stock internals and valve train. When upgrading to larger turbos upgrading your internals and valve train can help prevent the ominous boom some of us have heard at the track when the engine blows and avoid head problems such as floating a valve, etc.
As to the 14bs potential. We dont yet know where it stops. With the right supporting mods and proper timing we could see times well into the 10s before we find its limits.
Hopefully with this information you can decide the best upgrade path for you and what you would like to achieve. No where in here am I saying that what you have done is wrong or that you have to do it this way. I am simply stating the information I have researched as it pertains to the DSM and how I would like to upgrade my DSM. With any luck hopefully I can avoid blowing my engine at the track.
Upgrades such as swapping heads, SMIMs, exhaust manifolds, turbos, external wastegates and things like compression ratios and stroker kits have effects I did not cover in here due to the fact that there are to many variables to cover without writing a book. If you have questions pertaining to these items seek the knowledge of someone doing these changes or an experienced shop. The information stated here are basic concepts to consider when doing any turbo swap.
like wu tang.