How bad is this clutch disc?

[williillii]

Never seen a worn clutch disc before ( ) ... Im thinking this one is toast, but I really have no idea. Any idea if I can squeeze any more out of this disc? Or does that wear pattern mean Im totally ####ed, and there is something going wrong in there?

pics

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Forgive me I dont have a micrometer yet .

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I know you guys will just say replace it anyway but Id like to try and get another 5-10k out of it if possible. Thanks.

 

[turbotalon31]

(ill be 1 of those guys )im going to say replace it. has some wear no the bottom part

 

[shredwin]

was that in your car before? and if it was did it slip on you? It looks like it could still be used again, since its not all the way down to the rivots.

 

[williillii]

Yes it was in the car. For how many miles I dont know. Odometer is busted haha. Id say 40k. Maybe 50. Ive launched the car maybe 2 times on it.

No it did not slip, it is out of the car for reasons unrelated (destroyed engine). Normally I would just replace it no questions asked but this unplanned motor swap has me trying to pinch pennies.

 

[shredwin]

well if it didnt slip on you before and your trying to save money I would just re-use it. you can always upgrade it later on in the future

 

[Derock2gspyder]

ya i say if need be the clutch should be fine the condition doesnt look to bad but still gonna go out faster then a new one so youll have to pull the trans again somewhat soon but ya itll work for awhile

 

[fran_drivertsi]

That disk is junk. Get a kevlar 6 puk and you will be happiest man ever!

 

[KadieTSi]

Just get a new one and call it a day

 

[habitatguy187]

Rivets look pretty good to me. I'd run it. I've pulled out much worse looking discs on cars that still didn't slip at all.

 

[90moneypit]

That disk is junk. Get a kevlar 6 puk and you will be happiest man ever!

Maybe on a dragstrip but puck clutches aren't for most street driven cars. Most people like smooth engagement, not grabby as hell engagement. Before anyone says "But I have one and I drive on the street so it's streetable", remember that you can use a welded diff on the street too but you won't feel the same way after 30k miles (and probably a couple sets of tires) later. Just so you know, I have a 6 puck and wish I didn't every time I have to deal with stop and go traffic. Ever try to maintain 5mph speed with one? Now try it on an uphill grade...

edit: To the OP, yeah that disk will probably last for awhile longer but you might want to investigate why it has uneven wear like that. You might want to start with the flywheel and see if it's warped. I'd suggest a new Mitsubishi TOB when you re-install it and check the pivot ball and clutch fork for wear while everything is accessible. Don't cheap out on the TOB or you'll be replacing that clutch a lot sooner.

 

[williillii]

I use this car for pizza delivery no way Im getting anything more than a 2600..

I just replaced the throw out bearing about 1000 miles ago. Brand new OEM mitsu. I didnt notice much play in the clutch pivot, everything was greased a little and put back together. Ill check it again.

Could the wear be from a misadjusted clutch? I found out that my adjustments had been way off for like 4 years after I changed the tob.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Looks like uneven wear to me. You might need to get something checked. My clutch was dragging for over a thousand miles before I had the means and funds to change it. It came out worst then that, almost ate up to the metal. But it was all even wear.

 

[90moneypit]

I'd say have the flywheel checked and probably turned if it's not flat. What pressure plate do you have on it?

 

[williillii]

ACT 2100. I looked at the flywheel and it is really smooth and shiny on the part that mated with the worn part of the disc. The rest looks, not worn, but maybe like it got too hot or something. Thinking maybe it was due to the clutch being adjusted too far "down" ... as in when I pushed it to the floor it was not completely disengaging. It was not enough to move the car really, but I think it was dragging...

 

[90moneypit]

Yeah, I'd have it checked out and resurfaced if you can. If it looks like it got hot, you can be pretty sure it did. Might be warped or tapered, either one isn't good. Resurfacing it will make the clutch play catch up but should eventually even out, I just don't recommend any hard launches for the next couple thousand miles until it evens out. A new disk would be ideal but you can probably get by with what you have for a while, just don't expect maximum performance out of it.

 

[Kyle_B]

I've seen a clutch with less than 5k miles with more glazing than that. I would say you can throw more miles on it, but i personally would just replace it with a newer or better clutch disc. Your pressure plate should still be gtg but if you've already taken the time to remove the trani then i would just slap a new clutch disc in there and then you'll know for sure that your good. Maybe get the flywheel resurfaced, but i've found that resurfacing increases the amount of foot travel needed to engage the clutch....

 

[fran_drivertsi]

Maybe on a dragstrip but puck clutches aren't for most street driven cars. Most people like smooth engagement, not grabby as hell engagement. Before anyone says "But I have one and I drive on the street so it's streetable", remember that you can use a welded diff on the street too but you won't feel the same way after 30k miles (and probably a couple sets of tires) later. Just so you know, I have a 6 puck and wish I didn't every time I have to deal with stop and go traffic. Ever try to maintain 5mph speed with one? Now try it on an uphill grade...

edit: To the OP, yeah that disk will probably last for awhile longer but you might want to investigate why it has uneven wear like that. You might want to start with the flywheel and see if it's warped. I'd suggest a new Mitsubishi TOB when you re-install it and check the pivot ball and clutch fork for wear while everything is accessible. Don't cheap out on the TOB or you'll be replacing that clutch a lot sooner.

6 puk clutches are better because there is less surface per square inch, thus more pressure and thats why it is grabbier and much stronger clutch. Plus I am using sprung disk with springs enclosed in the hub, because on my stock clutch disk one of the springs popped out.

I do agree that stock clutch is easier to drive on the street, but 6puck can be easily dealt with and used to and it works better in the long run when you start making more power. If you have problems with starting uphills or stop-and-go traffic, perhaps you might need some driving lessons.

 

[90moneypit]

I've been driving for over 20 years, I don't have problems with starting uphill... The point you missed is that some people live in populated areas that have this phenomena called 'traffic' that sometimes leads to 'traffic-jams'. This can be further complicated by another phenomena known as 'road construction' that is sometimes meant to alleviate the former but actually manifests the latter. Add mountains into the equation and a duration exceeding an hour. Now tell me, which would you rather have in your car, a disk or a puck?

This is just a useless sidetrack from the original posters question about the viability of the pictured clutch and his request for an answer about it. It IS still usable for the 5-10k miles he wants it to last, just not optimal. Some guys have to drive to and from work and in some cases AT work (Note that he's a pizza guy). People like that are more interested in getting home vs down to the local parking lot to hang out and swap lies. For STREET performance driving it's normally recommended to run a disk and a higher strength pressure plate anyway...

 

[redyute1]

You have only gone though half the life of this disc

 

[williillii]

, nicely done 90moneypit.

Thanks for the advice guys...pretty sure I will reuse it and see how it goes..although in response to post 19, I would love it if I were only half way through the life of this clutch, but somehow I dont think it will make it to 100k.

Like I said, normally I would just replace no questions asked but I am already dealing with worse problems, like the cylinder head I wanted to use wont hold pressure. , back to the drawing board!

 

[SupaDoopa]

Time for an upgrade.

 

[williillii]

Does anyone know if I would have a problem using an Exedy stage 1 disc with this clutch? I looked into it and it seems this might actually be the same disc that the ACT ships with...

also that disc is not from an ACT2100. I was told it was procured locally from Tampa Clutch. I ask because I can get one for $40 new.

 

[90moneypit]

Shouldn't be a problem. People have been mix and matching disks and pressure plates for quite a while now.

 

[nodoze]

why take the chance for the work it takes to replace it later on your already their get er done!

 

[williillii]

Damnn....so I bought a "used for 100 miles" exedy disc for $30. When I was meeting the guy it started raining sideways and lightning was hitting right next to us so I didnt have time to check it out as much as I would have liked. Anyway once I got it home I looked again and noticed this crack/chip. So which do you guys think is a better idea to install? Smooth this out or put my old one back in? pics...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Damn I wish I had money for a new one