Hooking up real boost gauge?

[91Bomb]

Is the best place to run the vacuum line through the firewall where the steering goes through?

On throttle body is there a preferred nipple to connect to and what happens to the vacuum line that gets removed?

I'm going to buy a simple valve hopefully at Home depot (any suggestions on exactly what to get or where?) and not have MBC inside cabin, just a rudimentary underhood valve. I also want to hook that up so the BCS is still inline and functioning. Can anyone explain where to hook the valve up so BCS is NOT elliminated because I want to have it operational as a failsafe against knock.

 

[turbotalon31]

I just tap into the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. and run the vacuum line thru the steering boot

 

[ReYnd]

Keeping the BCS functioning isn't going to keep you from knocking. Just run around the stock boost pressure (according to your new gauge) and don't turn it up any higher until you get a logger so you can monitor knock. They're relatively cheap and really useful.

I also use the FPR vacuum line for my gauge, and run it through the steering boot.

 

[91Bomb]

Keeping the BCS functioning isn't going to keep you from knocking. Just run around the stock boost pressure (according to your new gauge) and don't turn it up any higher until you get a logger so you can monitor knock. They're relatively cheap and really useful.

I also use the FPR vacuum line for my gauge, and run it through the steering boot.

Well I don't plan on getting a logger since the max boost I'm going with is 14 lbs. So if I leave BCS in the mix I'm assuming if knock is detected by knock sensor it will activate BCS to limit boost. I'm also not real worried about watching for knock at 14 lbs since according to everything I've ever read is stock injectors are fine for that.

So I really want to leave BCS intact and could use help on where to tap into installing a little valve to turn up boost.


Can someone explain or post a pic of the FPR vacuum line thing because all I have ever read was about people running the line to one of the TB nipples.


Also when trying to run vacuum line through steering boot are you pushing through from the inside and is it a real pita? Any tips on that?

 

[turbotalon31]

Here is a diagram. This is what i went off of.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok so you're cutting the line to FPR, inserting a T and hooking in vacuum line from boost gauge, right?


How about hooking up my boost controller so BCS is still relaevant? Maybe I will be able to figure that one out by just looking under the hood long enough

 

[turbotalon31]

Yes that is right. really simple. Any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok how about getting the line through the steering boot? Do it from the inside of car?

And my boost controller can be any little valve that I can pick up at Home Depot right?
Just leave it in engne bay since I'm going for a steady amount of 14 lbs? Guess I'll have to mess with it a bit to get it right at that amount tho..

 

[Bluefire16]

Wow, some of you have so much to learn.

First, the search function works great, but on another note. You should not be T-ing off the bov line. The line to the BOV to the manifold should be left alone.

As far as the boost gauge; it is correct how it is in the picture.

Last, having the BCS will not help you with the knock. 14psi will not be in any way to much boost. Leave it plugged in, but have the lines disconnected.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Wow, some of you have so much to learn.

First, the search function works great, but on another note. You should not be T-ing off the bov line. The line to the BOV to the manifold should be left alone.

As far as the boost gauge; it is correct how it is in the picture.

Last, having the BCS will not help you with the knock. 14psi will not be in any way to much boost. Leave it plugged in, but have the lines disconnected.

I second everything you just said except for the part about leaving the BCS plugged in. On a 1g you can remove the whole thing without any problems. I have my boost gauge T'd into the FP line. My MBC is hooked up to the wastegate and the j-pipe. Do not T into the BOV line.

Yes going through the steering wheel boot is the easiest. Just poke a hole though it with a knife or other sharp object and run the tube through.

Hope this helps!

 

[ReYnd]

Easiest to poke the hole from the engine compartment toward the interior. The BCS is really useless once you have a controller of whatever type. It doesn't do anything to prevent knock, it's just the DSM factory way of making it harder to blow up your car by being stupid and cranking up a knob. Knock is controlled by the computer via adjusting the air/fuel ratio and retarding timing.

Edit: I can't stress how useful a logger is. Plug it into your OBD port and you'll be able to check out everything the computer sees. Quite helpful in diagnosing and clearing check engine lights too, since it's pretty difficult to find a place that can scan a pre-OBD-II vehicle. I'll be running stock boost for a long time, but it was still one of the first things I got.

 

[SpawnedX]

Make sure you save your BCS. Now that it can be used for pure epic awesomeness with ECM Link.

 

[GSX Eclipse]

I just tap into the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. and run the vacuum line thru the steering boot

Same here, the fpr vac line is closer to the steering column boot and makes it a little easier to run the hose.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok thanks guys. Guess I'll T into FPR line but still wouldn't mind keeping BCS inline in case knock is being detected for ANY reason and not that I'm worried about good 450 injectors causing a lean condition at 14 lbs.

I might get a logger sooner or later tho..

Ok ran the vacuum hose through the steering boot today which was super easy and T'ed into the FPR line. Gauge shows 12 lbs on full boost in 3rd gear which sounds about right since bcs mod was done awhile back. Tomorrow I'm going to install a fish tank valve I got at Wallyworld and turn up to 14 lbs. Not 100% sure where to tap in this valve but I'm guesing on the lenght of vacuum hose between the waste gate actuator and before it splits into 2 lines? Actually I'm not sure what to do and would like to hook it up so bcs will still work if it's activated by the knock sensor..


If someone can explain in short what the action of the bcs and all the vacuum lines that go to the waste gate actuator are I could probably figure out where I want to install this valve. Plus in general I'm curious to what all those hoses do to act on the waste gate actuator and what would happen if you removed the hose to it and simply capped it?

 

[91Bomb]

Ok now can't get boost valve to work. Hooked up a plastic fish tank valve and no luck so bought a plumbing valve at home depot and still getting too much boost. I elliminated BCS and connected the hose from the intake pipe just after the air filter and the hose that comes off the pipe just after the turbo to a T going into my plumbing valve with other side going to waste gate actuator. With valve all the way open I'm seeing 16-17lbs in moderate rpm range and basically the same boost as if no vacuum lines went to waste gate actuator at all. Tried closing valve halfway, checked everythying several times and no luck. Boost is acting as if there are no lines going to waste gate and sure if I kept on the gas would've seen higher than 17 lbs WTF

Can someone explain how the vacuum lines should be running into my boost control valve so I know it's hooked up right

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Ok now can't get boost valve to work. Hooked up a plastic fish tank valve and no luck so bought a plumbing valve at home depot and still getting too much boost. I elliminated BCS and connected the hose from the intake pipe just after the air filter and the hose that comes off the pipe just after the turbo to a T going into my plumbing valve with other side going to waste gate actuator. With valve all the way open I'm seeing 16-17lbs in moderate rpm range and basically the same boost as if no vacuum lines went to waste gate actuator at all. Tried closing valve halfway, checked everythying several times and no luck. Boost is acting as if there are no lines going to waste gate and sure if I kept on the gas would've seen higher than 17 lbs WTF

Can someone explain how the vacuum lines should be running into my boost control valve so I know it's hooked up right

I would recommend just buying this: Hallman Pro MBC.

As far as hooking it up, as you saw on the other thread, it goes like this:

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Hope this helps!

 

[91Bomb]

Ok thanks, think I just need to mess with it a little more and should be able to get one of these valves to work. If they don't hold up I'll look around for a real mbc.

 

[91Bomb]

Finally got it right i think I plugged the nipple on the air cannister and ran the vacuum line from the turbo outlet pipe to my valve and out to waste gate. With my home depot plumbing valve open all the way somehow I'm magically seeing 14 lbs boost which is exacty what I want simce I have no logger or wideband A/F gauge.

Since I really don't want to get into loggers is a wideband A/F gauge a good way to keep an eye on things? Don't really have no plans other than leaving boost at 14 lbs.


*edit

The other thing is i T'ed into the FPR line so boost gauge doesn't register anything for the 1st couple minutes of driving and I'm assuming that's normal Is that really a good place to T into though? I mean should I be concerned that it could negatively affect FPR in any way or give less than a true reading on boost gauge? Because I've read about guys running right to one of the ports on throttle body and disconecting an ?unneeded? line that's on there....perhaps I'm mistaken?

 

[ReYnd]

You could do that but it's less accurate. As for the fuel pressure solenoid tap location, it's got to be on one specific side and not the other. I don't recall which right off, but if you do it wrong, your gauge isn't going to ever read anything. When it's correct, it should idle somewhere between no reading and 0 (vacuum). Read the VFAQ concerning the install in this location and you're set. Promise it will answer every question you need answered.

 

[91Bomb]

Yeah I already T'ed into the FPR line , not the solenoid.


I think I should get a logger set up with a palm pilot but not sure which one to get. I remember reading about one where you can leave it plugged in to obd connector and set the palm to monitor at least 4 different things and setting the parameters yourself on those and if any of those parameters are exceeded the palm will alert you in real time by beeping.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about because I would definately want something like that so it could alert me while driving AND because I don't own a real computer so downloading software or checking logs is something I can't do since I only have a Webtv internet browser.